riptide

I didn't then. Just going by the feel on the road and the readings on the dyno. I'm running an LM2 now off the OBD2 port but have a 12psi actuator also which seems to hold over 20psi. I wouldn't mind a boost gauge, you cant beat the old style dial.

MX Dave, did you get much induction noise after doing that? I have a pod on the drivers side I want to quieten down.

Good result and nice looking engine bay. Why are you launching from idle?

I removed my new cat to add a socket before the cat for my tuner to use for his wideband sensor. It may be worth fitting one before installation?

I don't think it does any damage, it didn't do any to mine that I know of and I drove it pretty hard all the time. I had just recently bought it so I had too I couldn't really feel it letting the boost let go but my tuner said it would peak and drop back and then just wouldn't make any more. Sometimes when I'd drop the pedal off and then go back on it wouldn't spool quite as well as it did with a full spool up, if you know what I mean? Even so it still went REAL WELL considering the lack off mods. At the drags it almost coasted from about half way due to the standard injectors running out of legs. My mate reckons he can feel the flapper opening and closing a little when holding WOT. There is somewhere in the tune that controls the speed the boost comes on. We tried setting it so it came on hard but ended up turning it back a bit so my wife didn't kill herself taking it up the shops.

Sounds like bollocks to me. I ran mine for ages with the standard actuator, injectors and fuel pump at about 270rwkw (I did have a cooler though) and it just couldn't hold the boost occasionally was the only down side. It came on boost real hard too and I was running 12.8's and leaving most V8's standing.

I will be fitting an oil cooler to my ZF trans replacing the heat exchanger in my BF and I have an HDi intercooler. Have bought a Setrab cooler std 619 http://alertmotorsport.com/Product/Oil+Coolers+600+Series/4134 which will sit above the intercooler quite nicely by the look of it. I think it would be as good as the one at the start of this thread because it's 50m/m thick and a similar width although it's a little shorter. I'm assuming the three dimensions multiplied together will give a fair idea of their cooling ability. Does anyone know if the LM2 can log auto temps? I will post some pics when I've finished the install.

They wouldn't talk to ya here for $60

Sounds like I got off lightly. Got a sweet BA engine from a wreckers for $1,000nz and that was pretty much it. No fire, no damage to the turbo and no damage to the heat exchanger although I did have to re-mount it as the sump was cut in half. My first thought after the bang and orange flash was "have I got some way to put out a fire "

I just noticed you're in Scotland. Must be a bitch getting parts over there, probably worse than NZ?

A clean and some high temp loktite might sort it.

And you can easily buy credits on-line to tune other vehicles

With your mods and the gentle way you drive I'd say that would be a bargain :sungum:

I was a bit disappointed to read the end of this story. I didn't get to see what mods the car had but it seems it had all the right ones and a de-tune would have given the right result. I was led to believe there were no around town running problems with these cars no matter what power they run (within reason and without cams) and that was one of their great advantages over a worked NA motor. I guess the engine could have been over-pushed though. No telling how long it's life will be.

I agree. All the contact point must be uber clean.

Maybe it's something to do with closed loop running if it does it below the temp open loop is active? Maybe a sensor playing up? I would definitely get it tuned anyway just for the performance increase. You must want performance or you wouldn't be doing the other mods, right? If the cat isn't upgraded I would do that first though.

I have a BF with 325rwkw which spools up pretty quick and has enough power for me. More than I can put down a lot of the time and mines a sedan not a ute. After reading another thread on FG performance and spool-up speed I was wondering what down-sizing my turbo would do. Have you driven an FG with 320rwkw? I find the low down torque after fitting the new exhaust to be one of the best mods I've done.

I would be keen to see how it runs down the 1/4. That's an excellent result with 14psi with that hardware. AFR's and timing would have to be on the limit wouldn't they?

Not sure if they're different but I was doing 12.8secs on standard BF with ZF auto with only a cooler and tune

Mine doesn't shift up either, only down

Redline do a good deal on Xforce if you ask for trade. You will be getting a set of headers and an edit no doubt. Makes a big difference

Have you driven a modded XR6T? I find it easier to point it in the direction I want to go with the ZF but you can't stab the clutch if it gets a bit wild. My ZF sits at lower revs than my mates T56 @ 100kmh. 1,700rpm from memory.

Somebody on here might be able to help you find a BF2 in their area and you could probably pay one of the tuning shops or someone like that to look over it before you get it freighted. You will be better off in the long run and the cost is fairly similar when you compare the cost of a gearbox rebuild the valve springs and the stronger bottom end. And you can talk in rwkw once you have an XR6T

I'd be guessing mid to low 12's. SteveR hit 11.9 with 317rwkw and I ran 12.8 with 270rwkw on street trim with scuddy old dunlops. Does the FG have an LSD? That's good torque and the FG's spool quick

So if you have one of these overpriced paperwieghts can it be returned to stock and sold to someone that doesn't have a ZF?