riptide

That's a good place to start but beware the overboost. You may need about a 10lb actuator and ported wastegate to keep the boost stable anyway. When you say you don't want to run the car into the ground does that include the auto? I'm not sure what power they are good for in the BA... Why 60lb injectors? I would have thought 42lbs would be more suitable for 300rwkw...

Bugger!! Was there any recent work/changes to the car or had it been going ok for a while?

Damn, wish I'd known that. The plastic pan seems to seal a whole lot better due to the rubber gasket and the filter only has to be held up in place. It has a tube that goes up inside the trans. Although I was told the metal pan will dent rather than cracking if it hits something.

I know it sounds like a stupid question BUT just confirming the oil filter in the engine block was removed...

Would Nulon 85w140 be ok for the diff in my BF without having to use additives? Just for everyday driving and the odd day at the drags. Seems fairly cheap.

Bugger, it sounds like the tuners might have had something to do with it's demise from your story. Mine was a complete turbo motor minus the turbo, alternator etc. Check the classifieds here, you might get one. I'm in NZ so no good to you.

It say's on the drum it's ZF approved. Haven't read any bad comments about it so far...

If it was me I wouldn't worry so much about the filter unless you have a high powered motor and a built trans but I would do a couple of successive fluid changes because you're changing to a different fluid, unless you are doing a power flush. If you have the metal pan you may as well do the filter on the second fluid change.

I think there is a thread somewhere on here. With the actuator, if it's the same as the one I got you will just need to run a die down it to extend the thread and drill a smaller hole next to the existing one. Follow this link

I know the feeling. How much damage is there? Got a story to go with it? I picked up a BA motor for $1000 from a wrecker and it purrs. Sometimes they just have too many BA motors and will take offers. Most people want the BF or newer.

Well.....took my car in today to get the pan leak sorted. Picked it up this arvo and asked the guy how he got on. He said "we took the pan off and fitted a new gasket and re-torqued it and it should be all good". First thing I noticed was the strong smell of trans oil inside the car. I still can't get rid of it. So I climbed underneath when I got home to check for leaks and there were no leaks BUT there is now a red bead of gasket goo around the sump gasket and on the end of the thread of the screws. Next time I do a change myself I will have to contend with the sealant taking the paint off the new pan when I strip it and there would also be the risk of an internal component getting blocked. After travelling twice into town during work hours and not getting a proper result and getting lied to I feel like contacting ZF and laying a complaint about their only NZ agent. They should really

Hahahaha.... you mean the least hard? I just run mine with cracks. Everybody I know has cracks in their turbo.

Cheers for your help 1600dave, that's awesome....but not how the guy did it at all. He went around in a circle and didn't even use a torque wrench. I will be ringing him in the morning and getting it sorted. So much for trusting the agents. I will be doing it myself next time.

Is it auto or manual. I heard something about not towing autos long distances...

Thanks, I have been looking but can't find a tut on tightening the metal pan. Would be keen on a link ?? You might be right SteveR there may only be one kind of metal pan.

I have leaks around the pan now. Not tiny little leaks but fairly big ones. What pan did you get SteveR? aluminium or steel? I watched the guy tighten mine and he went around it tightening them all the way one at a time. I thought it would have been done gradually and working in opposites like torquing a head but I didn't say anything because I didn't want to tell him how to suck eggs. Does anyone else have experience with this? Is a genuine ZF pan by the way...

You can't mount the trans heat exchanger in the usual place on the sump so I bolted a steel plate to the block. I also had to fit the second knock sensor on but there was accommodation for it in the block so no problem. Apart from that and the tune change for the cams (I think) it all went fairly easy...

When the guy filled the trans he topped it off with the engine running and filled it to the plug rather than measuring the amount so it shouldn't matter how much fluid is in the cooler.

Ended up getting the metal pan. Makes sense to be able to do a service myself for $100 for the filter plus whatever the oil costs. (gulf western syntrans)

I just now got back from getting my trans serviced by a ZF agent (Eastern Automatics. The only NZ ZF agent) and I got the same as above plus the plastic fitting at the back of the box was leaking so he replaced that as well and it cost $720.00. Next change I will get a 20L of gulf western syntrans for $265 and a genuine filter for $100. I think I will get about 4 changes out of the 20L so not overly worried about the oil in the torque converter. The guy doing the job said the old oil smelt ok and the properties seemed in tact and is not the worst he's seen... Kind of surprised the ZF agent doesn't power flush...

Would need more information about your vehicle

My HDi cooler is ok. Don't know about doing long, hard runs but it's ok for a little spirited driving and for the drags. Type actuator into trademe, look for the one for $17.50 and see how you get on. Just ask if it's ok to freight to oz. Note: With that actuator you will need to run a die down it to extend the thread and then cut it to length.

That should give you good power. My mate picked up a 10psi actuator for $17 new. Fitting it is the b#$%h. If you do go an exhaust I found the 3.5" with 4" dump to be fairly noisy but it sounds good. The twin 2.5" is probably better for quietness. An exhaust will help to make more power on less boost if you have plenty of ca$h but otherwise save your money.

I would go the FG myself even though I like the look of the BF better because all the bushes, gearbox etc and other things are getting old on mine and I can see it turning into a money pit (more so) and my power requirements are right where the FG is at with minor mods (300 to 320rwkw) and the spool up is quicker. I see FG's around at the same price as the BF's were last year now.

Thanks CBXRT, I don't need one yet but that's good to know.