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riptide

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Everything posted by riptide

  1. Did this ever get fixed? I have exactly the same symptoms, Cheers
  2. Any opinions on whether an xforce twin 2 1/2 full mild steel system with 4" dump would make more power on less boost? At 15psi I would expect a little more wouldn't I? Also I don't want much noise so I'm wondering if this is the best option. If the boss is gonna chuck some federal fz-201 semi's on the back I need to be able to chirp them
  3. The dyno is a mainline. Graph only shows power and torque so might not be much use. Doesn't show boost or AFR. 280@4,500rpm It's fairly responsive and it's nice power to drive but I expected a little more. I seem to recall a post from Ratter tuning the Mrs FG and getting about 320 but I can't find the post. I followed your build Steve. That was a good time you got. I'm used to running 360kw so not sure what this feels like.
  4. Yeah, pretty good all round except for the diff bush. One company owner, two drivers 200k's is nothing on one of these in my opinion. We got the tune and only making 280kw. Seems a bit light to me for the mods. The only restrictions are the standard intake box with k&n and standard exhaust minus the cat. Running 15psi boost. 1,000cc Injectors 700hp plazmaman cooler and piping New solenoid Turbosmart 7psi Actuator Tuned at ctb Runs 773nm torque so it's a good solid drive and has instant response Any experience opinions would be appreciated
  5. A little update: Took it for the tune last week but it wouldn't hold the boost down and the tuner changed his tune on whether it needs a cooler and piping so we have bought a turbosmart 7psi actuator and ordered the 700hp intercooler and piping from plazmaman which should give us a nice safe 310kw or there abouts. He said it was already running ~255kw so was already running higher than normal boost so we assumed either a perforated diaphragm or sticky solenoid. Cat is now gutted and a little noisier. Might lag the pipe. Will post back after completion
  6. I downloaded 3dmark from techpowerup much more interesting than furmark I got 11,827 from my Gigabyte GTX980 G1 running 1440x2650 graphics score 14,555 70.04 fps and 57.72 fps physics score 10,425 33.1 fps combined score 5,368 24.97 fps
  7. On a side note the performance gains from the water cooling and good supporting parts were huge. I used the test from http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/high_end_gpus.html and my 3D benchmark result was 11,424 well above a standard GTX980 of 9,753 and close to the GTX980Ti 11,542 average I delided the CPU and ran the cooler directly on top with some CL TU paste set the multiplier on the cpu to 40x (4GHz) but left everything else in tact for idle ramp up and down purposes ran the standard xmp memory profile for the ram and that was it
  8. This will be XR6T No.6 we have modded now. Three utes and three sedans. We're a small engineering company with a car hoist in the middle of the shop We did the 400kw ute with all the Plazmaman fruit and since then it's been like what's the least mods we can do for the most gain. Picked up a nice blue 2010 FG T with only 198,000k's on the clock with one owner for $13,700 so the whole package will be peanuts really Didn't have to suck anything
  9. It's not the money that's the issue The boss just bought the new: FG-X manual supercharged 2016 Mustang (for the wife) 2016 RS Focus with drift mode (picking up next week) and he already has a 2007 BF2 ute with 400rwkw He just wants to see if it really needs it I have hinted about three times that we should do the cooler and piping but I guess he wants to see what we can do for under $2.000 I would love to keep my BF but the body is starting to deteriorate a little and I need the cash I really just want to know other people's experience with stock piping on the FG (minus the elbow)
  10. I know right I never went in there for years for my bits because of the name name's munternet on BF4 Maybe some of you have killed me....
  11. I bought most of my parts from Justlaptops and he wanted some pics for his facebook page
  12. My PC is a little old now running a gtx980 and 4770k with Samsung M2 pci-e SSD Plays BF4 at 1440 without ever having a problem https://goo.gl/photos/34mQkAzQ5Vog9mXm9
  13. Hi guys, haven't posted for a while Just got a 2010 FG as a company vehicle so the old 360rwkw BF has to go. We are looking for 300rwkw + but I will not be racing, only overtaking and giving it a squirt to settle the Holdens down. So far we have changed the plugs to BKR6E-IX Fitted K&N panel filter Replaced the plastic elbow with a cast one Will be gutting the cat before tuning and CTB will be fitting Bosch 1000cc matched injectors on July 25th prior to tuning. We have not changed the inter-cooler or piping because the boss wants to see if it holds together first and we hardly see temps over 30c here in Auckland and hoping it's the heat that softens the plastic. I was wondering if anyone else has tried similar and what pipes, if any, might be the first to go? In case of emergency I will carry some duct tape to get me home and then tell the boss I told you so when he has to buy the Plazmaman cooler and plumbing
  14. Problem is still there :( Not a major though. I even tried fitting an earth cable from the front to the battery in the rear. It's only when the loading is super high and it happens like a switch going off. I'm wondering if the alternator actually cuts on purpose when the air-con does and the headlights run on the lower battery voltage. It's only under WOT I'm going to assume that's what it is
  15. I would go the single dump every time for an internal wastegate. There are loads of threads where people are having trouble controlling boost with the twin dump, not even realising half the time what the cause is. I think initially exhaust suppliers started making twin dumps for internally wastegated turbos because they are easier to manufacture and twin dumps are the norm for external wastegates. The reason I have revived this old thread is because we are having a real problem getting the boost down over 4,000rpm with an Xforce twin dump on a BA when we have checked everything else and never had any trouble with the standard or single 4" dump. Wastegate is ported and tested on the bench. Just my opinion but any comments would be appreciated. Chris
  16. So if the "lurch" is related to the learning part of the trans does that mean I have to retune the engine to stock power to get rid of it? Are the guys with the built and tuned autos having the same problem? Chris
  17. getting a little squeel now but still no where near what it was with the old pads
  18. Not sure if it's relevant but a rod didn't get bent on the dyno did it? I had bent rods from overboost and only noticed it when it was hot and at idle. Not meaning to concern you but just thought it was worth consideration. cheers Chris
  19. I get a lot of induction noise too. Since I lowered my boost to about 16psi I get less of it. I think it's just all the turbulance from the air flow in hitting the turbo wheel as the butterfly shuts and the pressurised air in the intercooler has to go somewhere. It was a lot worse when I had a stronger BOV or no BOV. Now I am back to the standard BOV which seems to work fine and make less back pressure/surges. Cheers Chris
  20. Since I have been running ~350RWKW I have had a bit of an issue with gear changes on hard acceleration in manual mode. I first encountered it while having a go with an Audi RS5. I stayed with him through the narrow windy roads and chopped it down to overtake on the up hill double lanes. When I went to changed up a gear there was a bit of a thud but no change until I eased off the gas. Then yesterday I was accelerating at WOT and it wouldn't change from third to fourth in manual mode. I tried to shift three times before selecting drive, where it went back to normal. I'm not sure if there is some physical distortion in the selector area when it's loaded up that stops me from selecting a gear or if there's something wrong with the trans internally. There have been a couple of hard THUDS too which made the sphincter pucker. I have only experienced this in manual mode so far but not sure if it does it in other modes because I would normally drive it a bit softer. Any help/similar experiences appreciated. Cheers Chris
  21. Apart from a tiny bit of squeel in the morning when I first start the car when there is light rust on the disks the pads are still going strong with no noise
  22. I just noticed this the other day in the morning on my way to work. I just had a retune and making conservative 340kw and I thought maybe the alternator stops working under certain loading in the same way the air con stops working under WOT. Any help would be appreciated Maybe I'm due for a new battery? Cheers, Chris
  23. I live in Beachlands and work in Mt Wellington.
  24. Hey toawd. What part of Auckland are you?
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