riptide

To answer my own question the noise must have been the air bleeding off the bov because I put a mini k&n type filter on it and it sounds waaay better. The standard Bosch bov seems to maintain a bit of a balancing act due to the different pressures on each side of the butterfly and the plenum pressure controlling the bov. This would go against the theory that air is being sucked in through the bov at cruise due to the fact there is more pressure on the bov side of the butterfly than there is in the plenum and at extremely low boost the waste-gate would be unable to open due to spring pressure. At idle there is air coming out of the bov. :disclaimer: I reserve the right to be wrong

Sounds like a deal Madeinitaly. That seems a fair bit off for such a young car and low k's. Did you check for rubber inside the guards

He sounds like a pushy bastard. Maybe he's short of cash too

I made a tool up yesterday that can be used to change the valve springs one at a time without removing the cams. I have tested it on a BF head on the bench and removed 4 springs in about 20 minutes. I will test it on a complete N/A engine I have at work and if it works I might start a thread. Am I correct in assuming only the intake springs need replacing on the BA for modest boost of about 12 psi?

Ok Steve, I will wait for you to get yours done. Do doubt you will have a qualified opinion on all the bits once you try them out. Money is not my middle name right now so I just want to do the important bits. Thanks Chris

Haha, interesting chain of events. Not a nice feeling. I had a similar problem but mine was caused by detonation. Are you sure it didn't all start with the rod snapping?

I'm having the same issue with valve springs atm where it runs rough if I stop at the lights after giving it a bit. I also notice a short term power drop on the open road if I drop off the boost for a couple of seconds and then attempt to jump back on. My tuner tells me it won't make any difference to the tune if I change the springs. He also recommended using the highest octane fuel available for forced induction engines. On a related note can anyone tell me if there is a reason the cams are removed to change the valve springs?

Hi SteveR, can you run me through all the stuff in the box? I was looking at doing something like that to get rid of the noises under the car and improve the handling. Have been ignoring the diff bush in mine even though it's probably stuffed. Is the one you have there bulletproof? Not keen on installing one just to get another 20,000k's

Damn, maybe I do need my springs changing then. Sorry about the bad advice earle13. Is there a topic in the forums explaining valve float and the symptoms in depth or could you tell me a little more henz?

Do you guys really think valve springs are important and how would I know if they were failing? The reason I ask is because I still have the springs from my BF and I have a special Snap-on tool for changing them that a mate loaned me. I think I am running up to about 11psi boost but I will be going back on the dyno in the next few days for a final tune and check-up. Thanks Chris

Hi earle, I replied on your other thread

Hi earle13, I would forget the valve springs if I was you if you only want 280-290rwkw. The reason valves float, as you probably know, is because of the boost stopping them from closing properly so all you have to do is make your engine breathe easy with fewer restrictions and you won't need much boost to make that power. The main culprits would be the cat, intercooler, piping and the aluminium crossover casting. You might want to look at a surge tank with Bosch 044 instead of hacking your stock pump since the utes seem fairly easy to fit them in and the standard pump supplies ample fuel to the surge because there is no pressure. I was doing 12.8's with just a HDi intercooler and a tune with the cat in. I'm running less boost now but making more power with my BA engine with the breathing freed up.

07 BF2 with about 165,000 km's. Bought it at 149,000 when I joined here and haven't stopped playing with it since...hope I don't go blind. Motor was a sweety until I overboosted it and put a couple of rods through the block. Now has a BA motor which runs like a charm. Diff bush is gone and front disks need replacing. Rear tyres are wearing quite fast...for some reason.

To keep the pump noise down I used a piece of 16m/m natural rubber with M6 C/S bolts sunken in and Nylok nuts. I considered using the small round rubber mounts with the studs in but I have seen too many broken ones and didn't want my fuel pump bouncing along on the road underneath. To clarify there is an aluminium pump bracket on the pump which is bolted to the rubber and the countersunk heads are below the rubber surface so the pump is completely isolated from the car.

Yes, any earth straight to the body will do. Also if you plan to take it down the 1/4 mile you may have to bolt the battery down.

You tell it like it is Tilvo

I was wondering that too. I am also wondering what the long drawn out dunny flush air noise is when on mild boost. I have a pod next to the turbo and the standard BOV is vented to atmo with no filter. My tuner tells me it can be better to have a BOV so the hoses don't blow off when the butterfly closes suddenly when on hard boost.

Hey vz_commo, that's a coincidence, I did the exact same change from my '07 vz to my xr6t. I just wish I never bought the vz. Could have saved some cash

I should have mentioned that I know hardly anything about tuning and logging etc except what I've learnt in the last year or so so most of what you guys are saying is like Chinese to me. My tuner recommended I get one of these. He has one and tells me he can use the info to modify the tune. If there is a better unit for similar money I'm all ears, just keep it simple please

I'm thinking seriously about getting one of these. I considered getting a boost gauge and some other gauges but once you add the costs and functionality I figure this is a better option. Logging boost and AFRs is one of the main reasons I want it. I can then get my tuner to make alterations to my tune without going on the dyno and I can analyze it after. Does anyone have one and have an opinion on it and know what else it can do?

Haha true hiddeous Madwhip, thanks, but I may have to hold off on the build until the funds free up. The BA is going well anyway. I'm starting to like it. I'm concentrating on getting happy power :D I have even put the standard actuator back in for better boost control in the lower pressures. Your rods and springs will be the same as mine now won't they? 14psi boost seems high for 280rwkw. I'm running about 10psi now and the car feels quicker than when I was doing 12.8sec on the 1/4 on the old motor @ 12psi with standard injectors (I know the zf makes a difference). I would def be looking at IC and piping options, the rest of your system sounds mint. If you can get your boost down you won't need the springs because you won't get valve float. Spool do some nice rod and piston combos if you are serious about putting the cams in

That's correct. The starter motor cable continues up to the relay box to supply all the relatively lower amperage power. There is only a single HEAVY cable running forward from the boot. You may have to cut/remove the old unused positive battery cable so it doesn't short. I have heard stories of hydrogen gas being created in the boot but I don't really buy into it becoming dangerous because the alternator supplies power to the car most of the time so the hydrogen created from charging will be minimal and it's a big boot.

NZ$5.90 each as recommended by my tuner, gapped .6 to .8 depending on the boost. He also suggested going to a slightly cooler BKR7E if desired to avoid pre-ignition.

Here we go I spent weeks working out what was best for me and ended up putting it in the boot. If I had seen this thread I may have gone this way. I have had no problems whatsoever though. I stuck it in a supercheap box and took power to the starter motor with a massive cable and ran a short earth cable to the body (when I say "I" I mean a auto sparkie). You'll notice in my sig I still have enough space for it. Doesn't look like I have permission to edit my previous post...

I was looking at an awesome thread yesterday with pics. I'll see if I can find it. I'm in Auckland by the way