maccanz

I put up with this issue for 3 years. As I rarely drive the car I just avoided boosting too much and then when it occurred it just reminded me to "look into the issue" which was promptly put on the back burner until the next time I drove it. Initially I thought I have fixed it with the purchase of a new battery as the old one was stuffed due to the car sitting for so long. Problem was gone for a month or so and then came back. I noticed the problem right after I have the car tuned with new injectors and also after I relocated the battery. Thought it might have been something not right after the mods, maybe a bad earth or loose plug etc? Rechecked every thing and it all looked good. The problem progressively got worse over the years to the point when even with slight boost (8 or so PSI) and accelerating under load like up a hill or with passengers - it would hit hard. Today I changed the coils for new genuine ford ones and also fitted new plugs. Took it out for a test drive and put my foot to the floor - no issues, just kept pulling like it used to right after the tune. I doubt it was the plugs as the "old" ones were new right before the tune, so I conclude the problem was coils.

So to close this thread off, turns out it was my battery causing all the speedo issues. I got it checked and it had 80% life in it. Put a new one in it and it has been fine since. Seems these cars are very sensitive with batteries.

Any more suggestions from people?

BF with ZF The same issue that a few guys have had on here: Give the car some gas and some warning lights on the dash come up then the speedo dies and the car goes into some kind of limp mode until you reset the key. Makes no difference if the TC is on or off and it only does it under heavy load every now and again. I have spent hours reading threads on here and have come to these possible reasons: - ABS unit faulty - Wheel speed sensor faulty - Bad battery earth - Bad battery - Coils breaking down - Incorrect gap on plugs I'm not sure if anybody has definitely fixed this problem.... I have a Launch C Reader 6: http://www.ebay.com/...d2a5240&vxp=mtr Which reads standard codes excluding the ABS system so it says the car has no error codes at all. I was thinking of this unit: http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1438.l2649 Would this unit read the ABS codes?

Can anybody suggest a cheap ABS Scan tool that will check my wheel speed sensors? I think I might have a dodgy one with my speedo / TC / ABS issue I am having occasionally after my tune. I'm in NZ so will need to purchase one from Ebay.

Bosch 42's Cat removed SS Throttle body Cross over pipe Custom made drivers side airbox with pod filter Ported wastegate running 11psi Stock exhaust, cooler and fuel pump. Bit nervous about a cert req for more than 20% power increase.... my car always get WOF's from the local testing station and I haven't had any issues yet. Although the guys there always gather around when one pops the bonnet ;-(

Hi guys, I'm from Wellington. I have a 06' BF with ZF trans. Car has a few minor mods to run 312rwkw on STM's dyno Time to do some servicing with brakes and trans - what do you guys recommend for the trans servicing? Insist on the ford oil of just go with what ever the Auto shop recommends? Cheers

Oh yes obviously a tune as well for my car. My point is that dyno might be optimistic. I would have thought with my mods I would have 270-280 rwkw not 312 rwkw. Maybe you have a generic tune bigblu which is why it is a bit more that stock (taking to account that hub dyno might be slightly optimistic compared to a rolling road dyno)?

Bigblu222 Here is mine in the same dyno: XR6T BF Stock exhaust with cat removed, Bosch 42's, SS Throttle body and 3" intake with airbox. Stock fuel pump was hindering any more.

I took my car back to my tuner and it had 2 error codes. One code was something about lost communication with the ecu and the other code he was not familiar with. Codes were cleared and the car has been fine since! He mentioned something about the ecu getting confused with the car is on a dyno because the front wheels are not spinning and this could be why the codes were there. Effectively the car was in some kind of limp home mode all the time. I'm glad it was sorted as I thought it was too much of a coincidence to have error codes right after the tune.

No I don't have the file and my tuner is quite inexperienced with Fords as well. I was hoping it might be a simple fix that somebody could pass on so I can talk to my tuner about it some more. Can I ask for the file? Who actually owns it?

Hmmmm.... so this might be just a VCM / HP thing?

Here is the tune spec.PDF

I have just recently had my 06 BF tuned with VCM software to around 312rwkw. The car runs fine on and off boost and I am very happy with my new found power and the job my tuner has done. The car does however have a strange trait. When using a lot of throttle creating wheel spin in first, when the trans decides to change to second the engine cuts power dramatically for a moment until the change is made then the power comes back. The pause in power is massive, as if you can imagine going from hard acceleration to almost hard breaking then hard acceleration again. Enough to feel like your gonna go through the windscreen when the power cuts! It does this regardless of the rev or throttle position, only common parameter is wheel spin. So in a low traction situation it will do it at half throttle with lowish revs. It makes no difference if I have T/C on or off, apart from slightly less wheel spin with it on. First question - Is this normal for this car? My tuner noticed it and said that it was a "Ford" thing as he had tuned a FG recently with the same trait after tuning. Next question - If not normal, can anybody have any suggestions I can pass in to my tuner to help fix the problem? Next question - Is it normal for a 312rwkw car to burn rubber in the first 2 gears on a dry road with the T/C on (sorry newb question ) Please help!

I have the same problem with my car! I had it tuned 3 days ago and now when I got WOT in second it starts to break traction at around 100kph and I get TC / ABS lights come up. I back off the gas thinking something is wrong and the speedo falls to zero and stays there. Only way to get the speedo back is to reset the ignition. Is this to do with the tune or just a coincidence? Could it be my coil packs failing due to the extra load? Is it incorrectly gapped plugs as I have new plugs as well before the tune? Help