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About gsd112

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  1. Give Joe a call at Precision Im sure they will help.
  2. I just had a true-trac and stronger GJ drivelines tailshaft fitted to my G6ET and there is no difference in driving normally no clunks no diff whine no vibrations. Wouldnt even know the changes had been done. But its way better when driving it hard its like night and day.
  3. There is also Northmead auto centre. A mate takes his Turbo there and has a tune and swears by them.
  4. I have to agree blacktur8oute . Been to multiple shops over the years including Autotech, CMS and Tunehouse and Autotech workmanship is on another level to CMS and they are better than Tunehouse. I must admit my time at CMS was 4 years ago and Tunehouse before that so things might of improved since then. Ive never had to go back to Autotech after any work or tune for problems. All 3 are way better than a regular shop, I just have had a better experience at Autotech.
  5. The polishes are enough to get rid of your swirls. Ford paint isnt known to be super hard. Its not euro hard but is harder then Japanese paint. Might be your technique or it just needed another pass or two with the 500. 80- 90% for a daily is a good outcome. Did you clay bar the car before starting the polishing?
  6. clean throttle body,but with those codes maybe best to get it properly diagnosed by a mechanic.
  7. At the moment it is 395mm from the centre of the hub to the guard. I can go to 350mm and still clear my driveway/ road dip. Since I bought it like this I never saw it OE height. Might head off to a local dealer and take a measurement of a fg G6ET
  8. Hi Guys, Anyone with a FG G6ET on standard suspension with the standard 18 inch alloys would they be able to get a measurement from the hub c/l to the guard front and back or if someone knows the standard measurement. I have a FG G6ET that had been raised when I bought it with standard FG XT springs which has been good due to my driveway situation but that has been remedied and I can know lower it back to standard or a bit lower.
  9. gsd112

    xr6 sprint mods

    Your best bet is go to both CMS and Autotech and get a feel for both speak to Joe and Spiro. Ive had tunes from both on my old BA MKII. They are both great guys but my preference is Autotech. Will be seeing Spiro this week to work out a course of action for my FG.
  10. sure was!!! Both shops are very very well respected in sydney. It was over 5 years ago.
  11. I had Atomic on my BA and they failed at 15psi. The tuner was adamant it was the valve springs I had done 1 month earlier at another shop. Atomic was no use wasnt there issue they had never had a valve spring fail. Replaced them with crow and suddenly the valve float was gone. But it still wasnt the atomic springs just couldnt happen he said. Buy Crow mate.
  12. I had an old L300 van with buggered valve stem seals and it would use 3-4 litres every 5k. It would puff away at idle then a huge cloud when taking off then nothing till I stopped again. Fixed the seals and it went another 100k and barely used any oil. Maybe .5 litre every 5k
  13. I have no pressure in the system. I can take off my reservoir cap after a 30min drive without any issues what is going on?
  14. All this has been done. I don't know where to go from here. I don't know if I should go back to the original guy and say fix it or just cut my loses and go to a forum sponsor who normally services it but I thought the local guy cant mess a coolant change up. Any idea why its only when the A/C is off?
  15. Hi Guys, Hopefully someone can help me? I had a coolant flush last Monday and I supplied a new coolant reservoir and cap (repco). All went well till Thursday when I got to work 50km drive it vented the whole tank on the ground. This is the first time I had run the car without the a/c on since the flush. I let it sit all day and I topped it up to half way between Min cold and Max cold marks. I drove around 25kms with a/c on and stopped and it was just below the hot max mark and stayed there. The rest of the way back to the mechanics I turned off the a/c and when I got to the mechanic it vented again. So the mechanic said it was the cap due to the radiator hose being soft and the system wasn't holding pressure. So I changed the cap with a genuine one and took it to work today and it did it again with a/c off. Any ideas what might be causing this? The temperature hasn't changed, its not going over half even if giving it a hard time.
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