DesFlurane

Run in? Picked mine up on Friday morning, drove 360 kms straight off the bat. Only banged it off the limiter once. Should say that the boost is limited to 7psi, 3 degrees of timing taken out of the whole map and a rev limit of 4500. I'm in the 'run them in hard' school. Saw the thick end of 160 on a few occasions as well. Runs sweet and only slightly noisier than a stock one. Back for a check up on Tueday then another couple of thousand kms before the real tune.

Great news. Just in time for the weekend.

Sounds great. Question is, when can I buy one?

Supposed to be first fire tomorrow. All stock, as ran out of serious cash. Atomic rebuild kit, springs, billet fuel rail and PW 4" airbox are the new add ons. Some braided hoses as well. No Harrop TruTrac. Couldn't get one for love nor money. Saving begins for the new turbo and manifold.

Matt, with the dollar looking good at the moment I'm importing my next set from the states. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?ti...l=Potenza+RE-11 Those to be exact. $1323.85 delivered. US dollars.

My cars been off the road since middle of March. Due to pick it up on Friday. I hope.

Ford don't own Jag. It belongs to the Indians.

You boys and your speedy builds! I broke mine in March and the engine comes back from the builders next week. Atomic rebuild kit of course.

Atomic standard.

Will a 10" rim fit on the back of a BF?

What size wheels do you have the R1Rs on?

Thanks for the reassurance. Now there's bits missing from Process West 4" intake kit. Also the promised true Trac from Harrop ain't going to be ready. Argh. Been off the road since March. Losing the desire for the car, keep reading the carsales ads. Trouble is the phoon isn't really worth anything so am rather stuck with it.

Engine is being built at the moment, had this email from the builder, We have checked the main tunnels in the falcon block and found them to be .0005 thou above the top limit on the STD block specification. With the crankshaft within spec but on the minimum size we are ending up with .0035 -.004 thou main bearing clearance. I am able to correct the main tunnel size in the block.However on its own we will still end up with too much clearance. The solution is to use a plus .001 bearing which is available in Australia and would be here by friday. Would you like me to order them ? Also we have had to resize the new conrods due to distortion and size when torqued up with the correct ARP bolt lube. 2 conrods were almost acceptable, 2 rods were undersize and 2 were oversize by up to .00075 Thou. Tuner reckons if I hadn't melted a couple of pistons the engine would have spun a bearing sooner rather than later! Why can't everything just bolt up! This car is fighting me all the way.

Why change from the Nittos?

Love some Toyo R1Rs but the sizes seem strange/limited.

Engine goes to the builder tomorrow. At last. Yeah might be interested, still have to see how much money is left over ;-)

Sounds good Wolfie Have you sold the Billies?

'Not on the damaged register' Really!

Things are more expensive in NZ. Lack of choice means people can charge more.

Wolfie, Give me a pm if you're interested and I'll send you my number. My car is at Robins at the moment getting forged internals and a few other bits and pieces. Would go no other place than Robins. PS have some phoon valve springs for sale, were running 400rwKw before the rebuild. 20000 kms on them only. Robin will vouch for them. Way cheaper than the Nizpro springs. Get in touch.

Post up your dyno run from Sunday Ugy.

-SteveR-, Mine does the same. But I think it's when the you come to a halt, the box stays in 2nd then changes to first as you start to move, causing the hesitation.

The engine gets highly stressed when it overboosts and is just hanging on, then the next time any load (and it doesn't have to be much) comes on it all goes bad! One run at the drags and it overboosted next time I got into it, lots of smoke out the back. My tale of woe. Also a rebuild kit coming from Brad.

I have a wildly optimistic figure from my local dyno, so I don't have a real clue. My guess would be 360 but the dyno read 403 ! Stock the same dyno read 234 so read into that what you will. 'Cos I have no idea.

This interests me. At the drags it's all about preventing heat soak, pushing the car through staging, icing the plenum etc. But as I found out after installing an oil temp gauge, the needle isn't off the stop when it's time for the run!