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XRTank

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  1. There are a couple of standard tunes available online. Has anyone had any experience with these or any custom tunes? chipmydieselchipexpressI'm keen to hear any feedback.
  2. Hi All Just want to get your opinions on a problem I've noticed for some time now. I'll be cruising the freeway at around 2300rpm, apply some light throttle and the engine starts to flutter/miss. It normally fixes itself after a few seconds, and can be fixed by applying more throttle, or less throttle followed by more throttle. And it only occurs when the engine has been running for a while (read well warmed up). Now here's the thing; I had the springs done ages ago (about 100,000kms ago). The coils were recently replaced (the old ones were showing hairline cracks) with Ford originals and plugs re-gapped to suit. I suspect the springs - just not sure how long they're good for - the car has done just over 140,000 clicks. Cheers
  3. I had similar symptoms to what you're describing a couple of months ago after running through a flooded road - rough idle but OK once moving above 2K revs or cruising. In the end, it was a couple of things - the throttle body motor and map sensor needing to be replaced, though I'd be suprised if you damaged these just by going through a wash
  4. I had my unichip replaced 3 months ago with VCMSuite. Pretty sure it has access to all the usual tables but I'm nowhere near an expert, so my suggestion is to give them a call if you have questions (details in my signature - speak to Chris). They're near Liverpool, and not too far from where you are. As IH8TOADS already mentioned, we did encounter an issue with the software connecting with the PCM - at the time the software was in beta but even so, they release regular updates (every 1-2 weeks) so it was quickly sorted after being reported.
  5. Don't really know, but the turbo appears to have come out unharmed. I was travelling at low speeds. It seems I have some electrical issues as the car was running pretty rough at idle a few days after drying it all out. Should have more info sometime today on the cause.
  6. With the recent down pour over the weekend in Sydney I found myself driving through a flooded road. Within a few seconds I was seriously worried with the height of the water and the car slowly stalled half way through the flooded road. After pushing it out to the other side, the car would not start... nothing. Having just had a pod CAI fitted it quickly dawned on me what just happened - water sucked into the induction... fark! I had it towed to my local mechanic and he quickly confirmed my worst fears after removing the coils and plugs and spinning the engine - at least it was cranking. After draining various bits, pieces and piping, 2 changes of oil and filters, a set of new spark plugs, a compression test, the engine is firing again. Just a warning for those running pods quite low from the ground - be very careful with water. It's easy to look back on the incident and say I should have been more careful, but seriously, it was a matter of 2-3 seconds before I realised what I was getting myself into.
  7. I didn't really factor in the cost of installing and wiring in the piggy back so any cost savings are probably gone.
  8. If you're only after small power upgrades, then a piggy back may still be a valid option. As someone has already said, you can pick up a second hand unit and save yourself the cost of a flasher unit. I was very satisfied with running a unichip for a number of years. One thing to factor in is the piggy backs won't enable your tuner to adjust auto trans shifts.
  9. I'm keen to hear more on this thread. GR8XR6 - which way did you end up going? I've been running up to 250rwkw for nearly 5 years (and over 100,000kms) with a trans cooler and increased line pressure without a hint of a problem. However, I just had it re-tuned last Saturday to 330rwkw and busted the converter down WSID the following day running on MTs. So my question: is it better to rebuild the box before it goes or just hope for the best? What price difference are we talking about between beefing up a working box compared to rebuilding a box that has let go? To fix my converter I have a number of options starting from installing a beefed up standard converter, right up to installing a 3000 stall converter. I'm inclined to just beef up a standard converter. Either way, going by what I've read, I think I'll be keeping off the strip with this setup and running standard street tyres to limit the stress on the box.
  10. I managed to buy a cheap 2nd hand ECU from a wrecker today... and the best news of all was the HP Tuners software was able to detect the ECU's operating system. The news gets better with the tune result but more on that later. I'll find out more from my tuner tomorrow about what needed to be done regarding the vin number for others considering going down this path.
  11. Thanks for the feedback guys. I am basically looking at cheap option to get around a licensing issue my tuner is facing with the the VCM edit software (beta). There's a 2nd hand ECU on ebay at the moment for around $80 which I might still give a try.
  12. Does anyone know where I can pick up a second hand ECU for the BA XR6T. I'm after the actual hardware component. If anyone is aware of any place in particular that has one (working) like a wreckers it would be a great help. Thanks
  13. In anticipation of joining the 300+ club I am interested in knowing what type of tyres members are running on? I've been running on standard 17s since day 1 at 250rwkw and traction hasn't been a real issue but I expect it will when I make the leap to 300+. It would be good if you could include: 1. Brand 2. Model 3. Dimensions Thanks
  14. [quote name='Headsex' post='540431' date='Jun 4 2007, 01:01 PM']Injectors have been posted. Please confirm once you received them. Danny.[/quote] Mine arrived this morning... great work Danny... very efficient
  15. I'd really like to see the 3.5" metal cat group buy get off the ground again. Judging by the mentions on this thread, I'm sure others feel the same.
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