riptide

I wonder if you would would be able to hear your engine running over an 044 @ 18.75v To be fair mine's not too loud at 12v but it's fully rubber mounted.

and congrats on finding a problem. Can wear you down when you can't find an answer..

I think I paid NZ$1500 for my whole system in stainless. Sounds a little loud and I would probably go stainless again next time but in twin 2.5". Lagging the front part of the system will keep the heat and noise down considerably. There wasn't much difference in the mild steel price where I got mine.

I think they mount slightly differently... Could be wrong though.

Hey Kyle. Don't forget to mention that the G6ET bottom end has just been fully re-built and hasn't even been run in yet. There may be other options that include selling that and purchasing an Atomic Cheers Chris

I recently fitted a GReddy Profec S electronic boost controller. It has a high and low boost setting and works very well. The advantage it has over standard is that it works on MAP rather than a combination of waste-gate cycle time, RPM and charge temp, from what I can tell. My only regret is that I didn't fit a 10PSI actuator so I can have a nice "nana tune" for the low boost tune as the high setting would probably still be enough to max the turbo out. I have played around with the boost table and got reasonable results but the main difference/advantage with the GReddy set-up is I can have the boost coming in harder without it spiking when loading up in any gear. It just goes straight to the pre-set boost and stays there.

ask the man on the front line...

I have had enough of "professionals" working on my car, and I like to learn as much as I can. (not to mention it costs nothing to do it myself) I really just want to know the easiest way to do it and are the intake cams identical or would they need swapping too?

I'll try anything once. Just wondering the easiest way to go about it?

I did the valve springs without removing the cams. Maybe I should have bit the biscuit...

I have been thinking about putting my old BF cams or just the exhaust cam into my BA motor I'm currently running in my BF. I blew the BF motor up a while back and the cams are just sitting there. I already robbed the cold side valve springs from the head. There are a couple of things I would like to know. 1. Do I only need to do the exhaust cam? 2. Can I do it in place? 3. Will I need to take the cam chain off? 4. Will it be a straight swap? 5. Is it worth doing and what power gains? and any other relevant info would be appreciated. Thanks Chris

I'm getting used to the FG shape. When I first saw it it looked like an "old man" car, but now I really want one

Thought I might go and test drive an FG tomorrow. Put some "manager" k's on it

Beware the sarcasm....he has recently been shot at regarding his tunes (allegedly)

I hear silicone can damage the O2 sensors if it gets in the system...

I know a couple of people that have had a similar problem due to a loose fuel line on the intank Walbro. Especially if it's the one with the big intake because the pressure relief is turned up. The rubber hose with hose clips is not as good as the original and it can come loose or even split the hose. A friend replaced all his coils and plugs before finding this out. If checking it make sure the tank is low on fuel if it's anything like the BF. With the valve springs, if you boost hard and then come to a complete stop and it won't idle for a few seconds then there's a good chance that's a problem. Cheers Chris

Nice setup. I would like one just like that (except with a lazy ZF). If you want to keep it that way you might want to leave the intake where it is??

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Do you have a tune camdawgs? That and perhaps a cooler made all the difference for me

Very nice. You gotta stop teasing your mates

and the further down the harder you get slugged...

if you're going to keep it. My BF MKll engine would still be alive today if I had spool rods. Although Dillz suggestion of the BF MKll has plenty of merit. Better head, rods etc

Of course the clutch might need upgrading for any power increases...

The ZF will lose traction on a corner easy but stock in a straight line it doesn't really, although with minor mods (intercooler, injectors, cat and tune) it will lose traction in a straight line up to third and manual mode is pretty good. As far as autos go they are pretty good but if you want a manual get one Why don't you go and test drive them both....