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SavageF6

Legacy Donating Member
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Everything posted by SavageF6

  1. Sorry for the LATE reply. I got mine through Senna_T, for a very reasonable price. I've had it fitted for a while now (by GD Automotive in Croydon Melb), and I can't say that I've noticed it at all. Except for the lack of driveline shunt that is The driveline feels much much tighter, not the sloppy joe driveline it was before. One would do well to heed Senna_T's comments on worn diffs and CVs though; any poly bush will transfer the noise more if the noise is there. I've looked after my diff well, and replaced my Ford CVs with better ones too (everything tip top) and I can't hear a thing. Very happy.
  2. It's nothing like saying "why would you hot your engine up". That's exactly my point. Plenty of people have actually achieved more power/modded their cars because: a) it's within the budget of the normal person, and b) it's NOT a massive engineering feat It's true that bigger, more expensive projects have been undertaken with making huge power etc, but even then there's a realistic goal/endgame for all your trouble and expense. The same can't simply be said of turning a RWD XR6T into an AWD version. It's certainly not impossible, but it WOULD be disproportionately expensive and time consuming unlike modding these cars for power. So much so, that again, no one's ever bothered. They put the rear IRS of a GTR into the rear of their Turbo ute, so still RWD only. In fact, it's a topic worth searching out, because I remember the final sentiment from Simon himself was along the lines of 'impressive technical feat of engineering, but not really worth the time and effort in the end'.
  3. Coming up 8 years of the turbo Falcon, and no workshop (let alone a solo punter) has seen fit to pour that much money into developing an AWD Falcon, except Ford themselves in using it as a mule for the Territory gear as mentioned. There's a reason for that folks- because it's not bloody worth it, plain and simple. Want AWD? Buy one. Once upon a time in 2004..
  4. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=36138
  5. To add to this thread, I'm going with the BF Superpro comfort option from senna_t (part no. SPF3232-70K) http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=66448&view=findpost&p=985218
  6. There are actually two Superpro options each, for BA and BF. From the Superpro catalogue: BA series Part Number: SPF2654K Sports/Performance option, possible slight NVH Part Number: SPF2654-70K Comfort option BF series Part Number: SPF3232K Sports/Performance option, possible slight NVH Part Number: SPF3232-70K Comfort option I'm told the comfort option is primarily designed to be an OEM replacement (except it'll be durable), whereas the performance part number is firmer than that again, hence the comment about NVH.
  7. Point to note- Flash tunes can be detected on BF ECUs. Be aware that ford may check that if you were claiming for a blown motor under warranty for example. That said, check out the following tuners, all have their own forum in the sponsors section: Autotech Engineering Address: 18-20 George St, Granville NSW 2142 Ph: (02) 9897 1378 CV Performance Address: 60-62 Alexander Ave, Taren Point NSW 2229 Ph: (02) 9526 5322 Tunehouse Address: 11 Chalder St, Marrickville NSW 2204 Ph: (02) 9557 4000 Dunno of any well known tuners around the Illawarra, I'd just drive up to Sydney and do it proper with one of those guys.
  8. I got my new genuine one from FTG Auto Salvage in Vic (they wreck Fords and Holdens mostly). Far cheaper than ordering from Ford. Maybe try them and factor in some freight to SA. Either way, it'll be much cheaper- I was quoted between 2.5-3k for a newie by the dealers. F*ck that.
  9. Port and actuator on the new one then swap when you mod sounds good. Keeping the old turbo as a spare is the best move IMO. I've got a brand new one sitting in my shed that I got for a song some time ago.
  10. Quite OT, but if you eventually find the lack of factory gauge calibration frustrating.. Those gauges you see are supplied through 'ozegauge dot com dot au', made by a company called 'Auto Gauge' in Taiwan. They fit in with the FPV blue etc pretty well and come in metric units unlike Autometer Cobalt etc. That said, the Autometers are a top gauge when it comes to build quality and function. The only criticism of those you see in the vid is that you can hear the movement at startup. I got Oil temp, oil pressure and boost. The tripod you see can be got from Pole Position Auto in the forum sponsors section.
  11. This is laughable. I can't think of many people at all who would be willing to pay another grand for a new version of a product, simply because the manufacturer CHOSE to render their old one useless. SCT/CAPA have shot themselves in the foot, and it's going to cost them business. Given that SCT have proven that they don't deserve our business, I'd say Sniper and VCM now deserve a chance more than ever, simply based on principle.
  12. And you've bought what, three? Or is it four of them?
  13. Very strange. What workshop did they put you through to, the Fulcrum one? 'cos I got that part number off the Fulcrum online catalogue itself. Left hand not talking to the right hand somewhere I think.
  14. A week eh? Wow, that's only two years after they announced the beginning of R&D, not bad Here's the Fulcrum (SuperPro) catalogue btw: http://203.31.191.243/fulcrumCat/ Pretty easy to work out, just select 'Ford', 'Falcon & Fairlane', 'BA/BF' and then 'Rear' for a list of appropriate wares for the back. SPF2654K - BA rear diff bush SPF3232K - BF rear diff bush
  15. One man DIY = top effort mate! Thx for the pics too
  16. Yeah its the start button. You can get them on ebay, though bugger paying what they ask for them!
  17. As an aside, I notice plazmaman also make a replacement radiator for BA/BF with some 85% extra cooling capacity. Something to think about anyway. edit: spelling
  18. Oh goodie, another Sticker Special Edition! Stickers. Mmm mmmm, special. Frankly, I'd rather spec up a normal GT with the brakes and leather only. I wouldnt be seen dead in a car with "xx Anniversary" on the side, even if I was a grandpa. "hi Sir, welcome to FPV. For GT special editions today, we have the 5th Anniversary Edition. Comes with 6 pot brakes, stickers, leather, and um... embroidery." "Ok, can I embiggen the engine?" "Sorry Sir, the only meaningful upgrade we offer are the brakes and leather. Everyone likes leather." "f*ck it, I'll just upsize a McGT then." "Certainly Sir, one GT-P. Please drive through to the second window."
  19. Fine effort there bloke.
  20. That's fuggin impressive, that.
  21. bank
  22. Comparing brands using two different viscosities is a flawed exercise at best. Any -60 oil is gonna give you higher pressure, nevermind the French stuff. It is 50% thicker at operating temp than the engine spec calls for after all. Personally, I'd only be using a -60 weight oil in a motor with billet oil pump gears as you're asking a fair bit more of the oil delivery system if giving it some stick. Cruising would be ok.
  23. Nulon's 100% Australian. Nothing to do with Castrol or anyone else. History: http://nulon.com.au/aboutmain.php Tour of the plant outside Syd: http://nulon.com.au/tour/index.html
  24. [Checks wallet] How much they want?
  25. I use Nulon engine oil, and will be using Nulon gearbox oil and Nulon diff oil since I discovered they now make it. The PTFE E20 and E30 will work to an extent, I'd be using E20 with every change to help the turbo bearings. It shouldnt matter if you change the oil frequently, but the embedded PTFE could well help to save the engine or turbo if you had an oil starvation issue - it would at least add to the time you had to shutdown before things started to seize. Long story short- I still have an EF Falcon running backup for the phoon that I once inadvertently found myself driving WITHOUT OIL (~160rwkw- cam exhaust and intake). In fact I only noticed there was no oil (oil light didnt come on) after I turned the engine and stereo off and heard the f*cking thing! No oil trail anwhere to be seen, and no oil left whatsoever. Make of it what you will, but the only thing possibly lubricating that motor was leftover Nulon PTFE. Edit: The only issue is getting Nulon stuff here in SA. I can get 10W-40 synth from the Parts Boys, but they dont stock the gearbox and diff oil. Supercrap and Rapco dont stock Nulon oils at all. Unaustralian f*ckers.

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