rednose

DBA42108S is a 328mm rotor (Early BF / Territory rear), I believe the Brembo rears are 330mm. I have heard of people making that disc work with spacers but that's not something I would try. You may just have the wrong discs

Nice, I'll have a read

How much power are you making?

What are you trying to do?

I disagree, I moved to a 4" x-force system and I prefer the sound of my previous twin 2.5" x-force

I have tried a fair few tyres in my day and highly rate the Toyo R888's, they held over 450kws in 2nd gear. Tyres were 295/30/19 and car was on e70 at just under 480 rwkws I now have the car on 98 and am right on the 400kw mark running Zestino 295/30/19 Gredge 07R (not the S) This would be the best tyre I have ever used, it holds 2nd gear no problem and they are half the price of the Toyo's Anybody looking for grip at a decent price should look at these. They also have an RS version which is rated at a lower treadwear rating so should be better again.

Aeropro will be releasing an FG Fascia kit soon

I'm currently looking at the Aeropro kit aswell, I just dont get why they didnt design it with the controls down the bottom. Having the screen higher up would have been heaps better. Still, its a nice kit and I prefer it over the Kayhan as you can choose a quality head of choice, and update it as often as you wish.

Which shaft did you break? Stock one?

700hp ones are actually 1000hp rated and plenty for 99.9% of the falcons on the road. The only reason they were downgraded to 700hp is due to the release of the 1400hp ones.

Going off what I saw with this turbo on a 2.5L WRX I was expecting good results but those numbers on relatively low boost is awesome. When my Precision needs replacing I might try one. May even try the 1050, God help my stock motor...lol

Opened his own shop called HOON Tune, has since merged with Aaron from Precision Automotive Racing and they are now called Precision Racing https://precisionracing.com.au/

Coming along nicely, well done and sorry for your loss

If you only want 370 then I would choose a GTX3576R over the 82R. Will almost spool as good as the stock turbo and easily get you the power you are chasing

20psi is way too much boost for 350kw.

Agreed, when I went to the PTE 6235 I found it pretty quiet, turned out to be a fantastic turbo for its size.

I don't think it fits, completely different turbo. Will probably need a custom exhaust manifold aswell How much power are you chasing?

I have 2 cards, BP and Caltex, Caltex one was awesome when Caltex sold E-flex but they have stopped selling E-flex. Now I just pay for the E85 from United when required out of my pocket and submit a claim through an app, they reimburse me in 2 business days. Fuel and maintenance are included as it is a novated lease. It works for me as I use the maintenance and fuel for both my cars I lose roughly $250 per week out of my pay (part pre-tax, part post tax), take into account the $120 per week it would cost me to fuel both cars, Rego and insurance for the BMW plus included maintenance and the BMW is costing me $50 per week give or take So over the 5 year period the BMW is costing me 13K plus a residual of around 14K which works out to around 27K Don't forget this is just a bonus, I lease a car purely to reduce my taxable income

Not really, Currently I have a 2014 BMW 328i leased through work (Wife's daily) for tax purposes. That cost me 64K, ex-demo The M2's I am looking at are 2017-18 models, they seem to be around the 65K mark So really nothing changes for me, just means I drive an M2 daily instead of my XR6T which is 12 years old now. If anything it will be cheaper to run the M2 and it will only consume about half the fuel the taxi does

Might wire it up so when the key is at the off position that fuse gets no power Hopefully that should do it. Don't really want to swap ICC's as the car will likely become a weekender by early next year. Looking at getting a smaller daily, maybe an M2

Would it need pairing? Pretty sure that if you keep your existing BEM then nothing needs to be paired

Hey Bud, You wouldn't happen to know which part of the icc needs replacing? I'm facing the same issue and CBF pulling the fuse out all the time. Due to COVID the car is sitting at home more than normal so probably a good time to remove the ICC and replace what ever needs replacing Cheers

Another option is: https://products.liqui-moly.com/oils/top-tec-atf-1800-1.html

I'm also curious. Autotech recently tuned a Subaru that made 450rwks with a GTX3584RS, customer wasn't happy with the slow spool (Circuit car), so they tried a G35 (900 I think) It made just under the 446rwkws but came on a hell of a lot earlier. Customer was very happy. I'd love to see a G35-900 on a falcon

Correct, not all ELM readers display Trans Temp Mate of mine had the same issue and I spent an hour trying things and couldn't get it working. I had a spare in the car that I wasn't using, plugged it in and bam everything worked as expected.