hjtrbo

Why won't you listen to us. We've been telling you for months, it needs a built engine to fix it. 🤪

He knows what it is. Clue: Took him out a few months back

It needs a bit of heat to help it

The cooler circuit is pumping at idle so you'll be ok with that.

That's how I used to do it That's how I do it now

There are cheaper kits around. Have a better look. OEM cooler is still available. It's good preventative maintenance to replace them. They are the common things that cause issues that can be easily replaced. Consider them a mid life birthday. Once installed they should see the life of the box out. Can be done trans in. It's a valve body out job. You'd need a new seperator plate as well. Plenty of ZF manuals around on the net to step through the replacement, check ball locations and torque specs. OBD is preferred over a temp gun. YepThatsIt on youtube has a couple good ZF videos

It's from the Microcat software.

1 person. You need a scan tool to read the trans temp. A cheap obd2 dongle and a phone app will work just fine for this. Pump in the same amount that came out. On first start after the trans has had it's initial fill, shift drive / neutral / reverse a few times holding for 5s. This helps filling / purging of the clutch circuits. When trans fluid temp is 35deg (from memory) remove the drain plug and drain / fill as required until fluid stops coming out. Considerations: Replace the factory heat exchanger. Optional is to delete it and run an external cooler. Replace the mechatronic connector sleeve. Replace valve body bridge seals. Replace solenoids. Replace valve body dampers.

Part number is ar2z16e146aa

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Crank seal is common. Is it dry above the balancer? If so I reckon you found it. Also some of the bolts that go into the timing cover require thread sealer, so check all those too if it's wet above the balancer.

Hey, has anyone had mint results painting the door and dash spears with a silver that is near smack on to OEM? Mine have seen better days and could do with a refresh. Everything I see on market place is not much better than what I have. Cheers

hmmm, holding back dirty response

all good man. My next plan of attack is to drop the leaf and shock out and smear grease everywhere. If it goes away for a month or two then at least I can hone in on it. Failing that, not sure how one would check for cracked spot welds or a cracked chassis rail. 🤷‍♂️