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hjtrbo last won the day on December 28 2022

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  1. Lucky bastard. I didn't have enough room to swing mine in the 4 jaw. The only other thing I did that I didn't post about was got out the carbide burr tool with a long shank and blended in the transition from the turbine housing gas path into the wastegate outlet (if that makes sense). Nice work man.
  2. It'll look like sh*t. Buy the proper pliers and stainless wire. 3rd gear sell them at a good price. And drilling into those case hardened bolts free hand will not be for the faint hearted. Reckon you'll get frustrated and give up. Drill press is a must in my opinion. https://www.thirdgear.com.au/6-Safety-Wire-Pliers https://www.thirdgear.com.au/stainless-steel-safety-lock-wire-15-m/ https://www.totaltools.com.au/114575-p-n-workshop-1-5-x-40mm-hss-tin-jobber-drill-bit-10-piece-166310591 https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-500w-16mm-drill-press-bdp-500_p0048826 https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftright-75mm-drill-press-vice_p5860161 https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-3mm-centre-punch_p5610241 https://www.bunnings.com.au/protector-clear-ultralite-wraparound-safety-glasses_p5814707
  3. Gotchya. @ken666 drill press and tie wire for you. Or look at the atomic flex plate.
  4. There is a locking plate you can buy that goes around the bolts for $20 plus shipping. Flywheel/Flexplate Bolt Locking Plate for Ford Falcon EA EB ED EF EL AU BA BF FG 6-CYL (planetparts.com.au) Or if you're a tight arse and have a drill press, just tie wire the bastards like I did. If it's good enough for a helicopter, it should be fine for a barra.
  5. hjtrbo

    Sump removal

    Yes, gasket goo / thread sealer is required. Make sure everything is clean clean clean to give the sealer the best chance of success.
  6. Damn, going to be a restless night. Good excuse to let the kids build forts in the lounge and everyone sleeps under the AC.
  7. 3 cans to get motivated usually does it for this cat.
  8. Ooh, they do a stock location fg manifold that accommodates the factory heat shields. Sold. @adams355 thanks for the link.
  9. Just having a guess here; I presume to make it work on the road a second solenoid valve would be installed that would activate the anti-lag valve from the PCM IMRC output via a multi-tune.
  10. @biddie_fiddler Call there bluff and stay in the house. Quite possible they are doing the sneaky so they can rent it out again at a way higher price. Or on the flip side, the new owner may want to keep you on. Either way, next years problem
  11. 2nd time around. Engine out. Learning curves... Lucky bearings are cheap. Clean, clean and clean. And clean. And if you didn't catch on, clean. White rag in, white rag out. It cannot be understated enough. And no matter what you're told, at the very least use plastigauge to confirm you're in the ball park on your clearances. Anyway, moving on from those apprentice things... Oh, and de-pump your lifters. And another massive don't in amongst all the other big don'ts; do not put assembly lube behind the bearings. Yep, 1st class rookie here making all the mistakes. Argh, time is free and the wife is very forgiving. But leaving all that behind, more positive stuff to report. Got a few bonus jobs done. Posted some of these shots in Puffs thread the other day, please excuse the repeats... Lock wired the Pulsar turbo housing bolts. Bodgied up the Pulsar 1mm oil restrictor fitting into the factory oil feed fitting Red loctite and lock wired the flex bolts. I understand the bolts out backing issue is a combination of power level (say 500+) and what the engine is being turned to (say 6500rpm+) but regardless, got in there first. Early worst case, I feel all sorts of vibrations. Research suggests that at my power level goal I should be ok anyway.
  12. Jets tuning thread has 100's of combos with all the mods listed. A very good resource and well worth your time reading through and making a few notes along the way. Take your pick and start saving
  13. @Puffwagon What do you think? You on board?
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