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El Andrew

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Everything posted by El Andrew

  1. Start with the basics - often major symptoms end up being an easy fix. Yep, it would still crank if there was a bad coil. Is the dash lighting up ok when you key on? All other electrics good? Battery good? Check fuses Check for any fault codes Is there power at the starter solenoid when you turn the key to crank? One thing I noticed recently when replacing the ignition switch is the only new option seems to be really cheap and made me wonder how long they would last. If someone previously has been messing around with the switch or ignition barrel that is definitely a good place to start looking! If it is that (and it could be plenty of other things) I diagnosed mine with a multimeter or test light by back probing the wire connector on the ignition switch to confirm the right wires were lighting up when the switch was turned.
  2. Oh yeah that's right! I'd forgotten it was that bit!
  3. Hey mate. I honestly can't remember exactly where the other hole was, but I remember just visually tracing how fuel flows through the module to identify any restrictions so I suspect it will be obvious once you are in there. Sold the car last Friday so I can't even have a look to confirm. I did also have to adjust the low slope a little to get LTFT spot on. As Puff says this is likely just due to aftermarket dump and cat so nothing unusual. Since the above, car behaved beautifully in the years following.
  4. I might be wrong, but I'm sure I read once that the oil pressure is caused by resistance of the engine against the oil. But pressure is really just a proxy for oil flow, which is what you really want. Decent oil pressure means your pump is working, which indicates oil is flowing sufficiently to reach everywhere in your engine. If the oil thins after heaps of heat the pressure might drop at idle, but this is just because the viscosity of the oil has reduced, not that the pump is not working or the oil isn't flowing sufficiently around the engine. So thicker oil will bump the gauge up due to more resistance, making you feel better, but may have a negative impact on flow due to increased viscosity and possibly cause issues with a stock engine with tight clearances and narrow oil galleries feeding precision top end parts. I'm no expert obviously. But I'd be reluctant to start a cold stock engine with something starting with a 20 inside it.
  5. Thanks mate! Yep, you never know. Just wish I had the space for more cars!
  6. Also mine worked slightly loose, but it was just the bolts. Check those (might have to remove the inner splash guard behind the front wheel to access the nuts)
  7. Can't see why not! Took it out through the Cotter this arvo - amazing how early you can get on the power through the corner. Fun to be manual too - my last manual was an XF that was so sloppy you couldn't tell whether it was in gear or neutral. Still very sad to watch the FG go. Put a lot of time into it and was a hugely fun car to have.
  8. 1504kg vs 1773kg, so a couple of fat blokes difference
  9. Bought it. Well, my wife did. I was still riding the porcelain bus.
  10. Should get a motor treadly. Meant to be heading to Sydney tomorrow to pick up something if it matches the photos. But came down with a stomach thing tonight. Maybe I'm having a physical reaction to selling the FG [emoji23]
  11. Sold it. Felt like I had done everything I wanted to do with it and had very limited opportunity to enjoy it properly. Also finding there's heaps I want to do on the house, and quite enjoy. Haha feels like I'd just got the car almost perfect! Bloke who bought it seems really nice and like he will appreciate it. Something grippier and lighter that should be fun on a daily basis hopefully coming soon.
  12. I don't reckon you need the oil pump gears if you are auto and not bouncing it off the limiter -others might have views. Usually a 460lph pump will overwhelm the factory reg and cause high fuel pressure. Something like whatever the current equivalent to a Walbro 255 would be fine and not need a new reg. I've had that pump on a BA with factory reg. I have a turbo side with that same BOV plumbed back in now and it is borderline obnoxious for my taste. It will definitely make more noise with the stock BOV venting into the metal turbo side intake so you could try and see what you think. Changing the BOV later is a 1min job and doesn't affect your tune.
  13. I would say some of these are optional - you shouldn't need a built BTR, different BOV, battery relocation, billet pump gears for 300. Could use a smaller pump too. If you go that pump you might need an aftermarket reg. But some of that stuff is still nice to have. Regardless of power, I think the turbo side intake and battery relocation is 100% worth it just for ease of access later when working on the car, especially in a B series. Looks better too!
  14. Maths really. I wasn't convinced that car was a long termer for me. Was worth about $5k back then, $3.5k to fix it, best offer I got with it broken was $3k. Parted it for almost $7k FG is behaving itself nicely. Just drove it to the coast over the mountains. New rear end feels great. And just put DBA extreme performance pads at all four corners and they seem excellent. Definitely dustier than the street performance though.
  15. Subaru Outback with the EZ36. Has been a cracker of a car so far.
  16. I'm still getting rid of the Kluger fuel in the mower from when I had to drain and clean the tank about 4 years ago. Haha full day under the car to fix the problem after multiple mechanics and Toyota couldn't diagnose it over the course of a couple of years. All sorted and then someone rear ends it and writes it off a month later.
  17. Car battery is dead this morning. Have noticed a bit lately that it doesn't take much in terms of doing some work with the door open etc to flatten it so I knew it was on the way. Only 3 years old which is a bit poor.
  18. That would work well if you were using the same calipers daily as on the track and just had to swap the rotors and caliper brackets. Would actually be pretty quick If you were changing calipers it would be a pain as you'd be bleeding your brake lines every time.
  19. Is this car for the track only? You could be in a world of insurance and legal bother if you make those sort of changes to the brakes and have an accident, regardless of whether or not the brakes were the cause. I know that's not your question, but worth thinking about. Edit: And yep, Territory rear calipers and discs are a piece of cake. Have done the same on my FG. Just get the Territory lines and trim a bit off the backing plate where the caliper fouls it - easy to work out once you are in there.
  20. Yeah I've got a few. I find in some rooms they are great (eg lounge for dimming, bedroom for turning off lights when in bed, etc) but some rooms like passageways it is more convenient to flick a switch as you walk past. I have a few things where lights look great (downlights in some glass front cupboards, LED strip inside the entertainment unit) that you would never bother turning on. So have them all linked and set on a routine to come on an hour before sunset. Worst thing is when there is a very quick power outage at 3am and all the lights go into setup mode and start flashing!
  21. Haha yep that's time! I was looking at my trailer yesterday and thinking I've had it for 10 years, and they always fit second hand tyres to new trailers [emoji23]
  22. For anyone thinking of getting paddle shifters I should update you on the PVS ones. Mine would not operate reliably (I'd maybe get a shift 50% of the time on a good day). I did heaps of trouble shooting with the multimeter and came to the conclusion that the unit must be faulty. I contacted PVS who said that there are known issues with the FG units and offered to ship me a replacement in a few months when updated units are available. I asked for a refund instead which they provided straight away once I shipped mine back. Not sure why they are selling them though if they know there are issues ...
  23. Thanks for that. Yeah I did ask the exhaust place to locate it higher up on the pipe but they didn't. Was 5 years ago and the sensor has lasted so no big deal. But funny enough the narrow band sensor closer to the turbo craps itself every 12m or so.
  24. Seeing as I'm lying under the car right now - here's photographic proof of what Puff is saying re bellhousing
  25. Nah, these were the PVS ones. I think the backlit buttons are the Kayhan ones? So first drive today and it would only change about once for every 10 button presses. If I pull the airbag/horn pad off it works fine. So tried rerouting the wiring and repositioning the sensor inside the steering wheel. Shifts between 1 and 2 no worries while stationary in the driveway so hopefully sorted. Didn't drive it though because the other car was behind it and I needed to do front pads and rotors.
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