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NOT QIK - FG XR6T Manual Ute


samhouston

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  • Dropping a turd
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I looked at the full size image of your photo, your bolts have fatigued, which means they were subjected to a cyclic bending loading. This occurred because the tension in the bolts was not maintained. IE they came loose.

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1 hour ago, arronm said:

Do you know the correct procedure for installing the flywheel bolts. If its not followed, loctite gets in between the crank and flywheel and that is exactly what can happen.

 

With that much damage the chances of it coming loose again are high

 

This was barely serviceable. and had SFA damage. Bolts came loose and fatigued.

 

28-4-2011nizproF6clutch140.jpg

 

28-4-2011nizproF6clutch151-Copy.jpg

 

Were ARP

 

28-4-2011nizproF6clutch154-Copy.jpg

Yeah I definitely installed it wrong, I know what to do this time but patience isn't my strong point and it's come back to bite me. 

The bolts were not torqued correctly and I had loctite between the crank and flywheel.

Ill install it all correctly this time and add some dowels and hopefully it will work fine.

I am confident there is enough meat left in the crank that it will pull up nice and square and not come loose or cause a problem.

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I just checked that.

The witness marks on the flywheel look like they have been loose for some time before the heads popped off.

I refaced the flywheel tonight so that's good to go and upon closer inspection the crank appears ok with no high spots at all and the depth of the pitting is minimal. 

Once I get the new bolts I'll mount the flywheel up and check that it mounts flush and runs true but I'm confident that it will be ok.

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It looks like the end of your crank has heated up to 250 to 300 degrees C in places. There is a ring there. 

 

Make sure that the loctite you are using is appropriate.

 

Keep in mind that there are many visable gaps between your flywheel and crank that fastening fluid could flow into, now that the crank face is damaged.

 

There may be thermal effects that act upon excess leaking fluid that could cause uneven pressure between the mating faces and in turn loosen bolts again. 

 

Imho if you install the flywheel with oil on the threads, torque it up and it has no runout then you "might" be okay to pull it off, clean it up and fit it with loctite.

 

To ensure minimal leakage in this case, I would pull the flywheel in with a few dry bolts to minimise the gap and then fit sparingly loctited bolts (to reduce leakage into pitting) alternately to removing non sealed bolts.

 

Imho this is still half assing it and I'd prefer mating surfaces to be 100% flush, especially close to threads. If there is a gap it provides room for the bolt to flex.

 

You might get lucky by slapping it together again but I wouldn't recommend it. 

 

Good luck mate and hopefully this post helps you out with whatever you decide to do. 

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Thanks everyone for your replies.

today I checked and made sure that the mounting surface of the crank was still flat and bolted the flywheel back up and the run out was around 0.01mm which I'm more than happy with. I assume it probably hasn't changed at all.

Bolts should arrive on Monday and I'll install the whole clutch again and bolt the gearbox up and then check it after a few hundred k's.

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Did you use a stone to dress the high spots flat??

 

 

Have a read of page 6

 

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/89288-I-jets-bf-f6-ute-build/?page=6#comment-1615047

Edited by arronm
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I put the flywheel in a lathe and took the high spots off, it didn't take much as the crank material seems quite soft.

I will get the new bolts on Monday and then dowel the flywheel then, the magnetic base drill looks a good bit of kit!

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