Not directed at you Ralph, just furthering the train of thought...

 

Also block to flywheel clearance, input spline engagement, spigot bush placement/length, ring gear engagement to starter (mentioned), clutch adjustment (mentioned), rear main seal to flywheel clearance (it looked pretty close in the picture), bolt hole depth after machining, bolt length.

 

Basically everything that comes into contact or near to the flywheel should be measured and checked.

 

Most of that should be fine but all should be checked.

 

1mm might not matter but 5 mm would likely be a different story. It has to be checked.

 

Did I mention that stuff should be checked?

 

Would you really want to use a spacer that produces possibly different expansion rates than the flywheel and crank and in turn changes bolt tension and stresses the bolts and dowells more than the already problematic setup?

 

Adding another element that can slip and wear itself and other parts is far from ideal even if dowelled.

 

Is manufacturing a billet custom hardened spacer (to allow for somewhat even thermal expansion of said spacer) worth the cost of just replacing the crank?

 

Would anyone reading this be happy to leave their car at a shop and pay for or allow this kind of fix?

 

Not me, no thanks.

 

If I had to be dodgy I would just remove any runout then partially tig the bolts to the flywheel once they were torqued up but I'd prefer to do it right the first time....oh wait..... 

 

Who knows maybe it will all just stick this time with just being put together as its?! 

I think what puff is saying is do it right the first time. 

Someone should've told fraud that. 

I'm all for the roadkill garage fix. Rock it with 900hp is the only true test. 

Then when it goes again in spectacular style replace the crank. 

Im all for "giving it a shot", but messing with 1000rwhp and loose flywheels is crazy town... you boys seen what happens when flywheels or clutches explode or come flying out of bell housings!!

Many a person now limps for the rest of their lives due to such failures.

Buzzsaw 

I think over a certain horsepower level or time slip you're supposed to have a blanket on the bellhousing to stop that. 

These just tear up anyway. And are just for autos with transbrake on andra tracks. 

 

 

You could do this

 

or pull the crank and fit a new one.

Edited 18/12/16 04:37 AM18/12/16 04:37 AM by ROB83R

Been back on the road for a few days now, put around 300km on it so far with no obvious issues so far.

I still plan on pulling the gearbox out in a few weeks and check to make sure everything has stayed tight, but so far so good

Good news. Let's hope it stays tight!

Checked harmonic balancer????

Yep it is all good, nothing has come loose and there are no vibrations that I can feel, even up neat 7000rpm.

I put plenty of miles on it today, so it is up near 550km since it has been back together.

550km is nothing. Anything will last that long unless it had been assembled by a sandpit. 

 

If you can feel the vibration, in this case, it's already too late. 

 

Just keep your ears/feet/etc listening mate and you should be ok. Pull it apart again at 5 thousand and see what's up. 

 

Hoping for the best homie.

Hope it hangs together for you. Time will tell...

 

Check my balancer, came a bit more than loose.....