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Ralph Wiggum

Diy Tuning

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I wanted to run it on a 4 cylinder, but I guess there is no way for the average person to go in there and define things like sensor types and crank trigger patterns. I know there are much better standalone ecu options out there but it was just an idea I was toying with 

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Comes on at 20, tapers to 24 in the top end.

The only one I know off that can do that is the eboost 2, as can demand duty cycle per rpm.

I assume the factory can as well?

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1 hour ago, gaz097 said:

Comes on at 20, tapers to 24 in the top end.

The only one I know off that can do that is the eboost 2, as can demand duty cycle per rpm.

I assume the factory can as well?

 

Yes the factory ecu can request different boost from the start of a sweep to the limiter 

Aftermarket EBC’s actually don’t work correctly unless connected to a tach driver 

 

Arron is being a flog again because he can’t comprehend a G2 GTX 82 is a 66mm turbo with a 0.7 comp cover despite the fact anyone would assume by now he could actually understand and recognise what is available for the XR6T platform and thus realise his one off fully custom built Nizpoo unicorn is unlike any other turbo falcon and can never be compared in a fair way ....... jusss saynnnnnn  

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yeh,  my boost is in at 2800rpm. Why is yours so LAZY....
 
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Because apparently the best tuner in the west only knows how to set 100% WG duty cycle and cant tune closed loop.

Using exhaust restrictions and fuel system limits doesnt constitute boost control.

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22 hours ago, gaz097 said:

Comes on at 20, tapers to 24 in the top end.

The only one I know off that can do that is the eboost 2, as can demand duty cycle per rpm.

I assume the factory can as well?

Of course it can. Factory boost control sh*ts all over anything aftermarket in so many ways it isn't funny. I have no idea why people continue to spend money to go backwards, well actually I do but it doesn't stop it being frustrating.

 

Factory has a 2D table of duty cycle vs rpm vs intake temp.

Boost by gear.

Underboost threshold eg 100% duty before you've reached your commanded boost pressure which means it will spool faster.

Overboost threshold to protect against overboost.

Proper PID closed loop boost control which means you can hit the same boost pressure in 0c or 45c ambient no problem.

The factory PCM even models how the heat soak causes the actuator rod to expand and change the preload, it then accounts for this.

 

Eboost is a dinosaur compared to it.

 

17 hours ago, M6 XR6T said:

Because apparently the best tuner in the west only knows how to set 100% WG duty cycle and cant tune closed loop.

Using exhaust restrictions and fuel system limits doesnt constitute boost control.

Well in fairness running an inlet bypass to control boost it does produce a good result with almost zero effort if its a race car.

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Of course it can. Factory boost control sh*ts all over anything aftermarket in so many ways it isn't funny. I have no idea why people continue to spend money to go backwards, well actually I do but it doesn't stop it being frustrating.
 
Factory has a 2D table of duty cycle vs rpm vs intake temp.
Boost by gear.
Underboost threshold eg 100% duty before you've reached your commanded boost pressure which means it will spool faster.
Overboost threshold to protect against overboost.
Proper PID closed loop boost control which means you can hit the same boost pressure in 0c or 45c ambient no problem.
The factory PCM even models how the heat soak causes the actuator rod to expand and change the preload, it then accounts for this.
 
Eboost is a dinosaur compared to it.
Boost per gear even in a manual??

I've seen the fancy launch control boost thing when the clutch switch was activated, Mick posted the other day.

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Yes it is not the 1990s. The PCM can accurately determine which gear is active based on the output shaft speed, clutch position, known gear ratios and vehicle speed. Even the BA has all the information required to do it, it just isn't set up.

Edited by rollex

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I figured it was there as disables cruise control when in second gear, even when vehicle speed is high enough.

It kinda is the 90's though till the last software advancements.


Out of curiosity when/how did Daryl leave HP? Or did he?

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???

 

Darryl has never worked for HP. He was retired before I met him. Then I convinced him to come work long hours for free with me 😄

Edited by rollex

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Hey guys.  Bit of a noob question, but how do I force the car to stay in open loop at idle?  Is it just a matter of putting the throttle position to zero in the Open Loop TPS transition table?  (ie so that open loop is triggered from 0% throttle)?

 

Trying to troubleshoot an issue where the fuel trims are sometimes stable (Lambda 1.00, trims virtually zero), sometimes not (trims up to -15%, lambda lurching from 0.9 to 1.1) at idle.  Ccan stall the car when they go wonky, especially when transitioning netral to drive or drive to neutral.  I'm checked a bunch of things an am suspicious that something in the O2 sensor wiring is funny.

 

Fuel control under load is absolutely spot on, so want to see if the idle issue goes away on open loop at idle.  Injectors are freshly reconditioned F6 injectors so I have factory data for them.

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From memory you wind out the 02 sensor delay values so that once started, it takes ages to ever reach closed loop.

 

Don't think you can disable it all together, unless you possibly disabled the narrow band O2 control?

 

Either way, it gives you enough time to see what's going on before it goes to closed loop to correct the issue. Know where the setting is in HP, and can check tonight if you like. PCMTEC I'm not sure about.

 

Edit - saw you were referring to @ idle, not start so am assuming it's warm when you've got the issue. Possibly look at disabling the O2 control maybe?

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Thanks mate. Yeah issue occurs warm and cold.

 

Am going to try the zero throttle thing, plus set the number of O2 sensors to zero.

 

Edit: actually I will try what you have suggested too - set the startup delay for closed loop to 3600 seconds which gives me an hour!

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Log it against cam angle. You'll probably find its fine for one cam angle and not for another, cam angle changes VE dramatically, hence the pulse width as well.

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Is it the factory calibration/strategy and engine?

 

What about exhaust/dump pipe? If the O2 sensor has been moved the transport time will be wrong which can cause O2 oscillations/swings.

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Yep - all factory.  Exhaust is 4" X-force cat and dump.  I imagine that could have a small impact, but you'd also think it would be a stable impact (like just a wider oscillation of lambda around 1.00), not fine one minute and dodgy the next.

 

I've got a thread I started a while ago with this issue so I'll update there re troubleshooting the car further once I know some more.

 

Setting the open loop throtle position to zero and the start up delay to an hour seemed to do the trick for open loop.  Flashed that in befor I left work and lamda at idle was very stable on the way home.  I need to put 0.9 or something flat across my base fuel map and zero out the scalars to be sure (and keep it off boost then of course).

 

Could be interesting to add lambda scalars back in one by one to see if I can find the culprit.  

 

BTW setting the number of O2 sesnors to zero didn't work  - car would crank but not start

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