turbotrana

Time to redo my sagging roof lining fabric. I would like to match the existing off white FG G6e fabric. Does anyone know if the factory fabric for the roof lining is available to buy and if so where from. If not then looking for another high quality option that looks good.

I should update this thread (I did post about what did completely resolve my issue in another thread all those years ago). Mine is a 09 FGt G6e. I had an annoying stalling problem and tried everything, including the above with additional earths. Stalling still occured. I compared my tune on HP Tuners and found an area of the fueling map in my tune that was a little leaner in several fueling points compared to most other stock FG fueling maps. That part of the fueling map will usually not be visited on deceleration coming to a stop but sometimes is. It is a lean area of the map and I put it down to bad ford tuning and was maybe rectified in Ford updates. Nevertheless I put the same richer figures in 4 or 6 load points as per the other FG tunes I had seen and voila never stalled ever again. That was years ago. The story is a bit more complicated than this but just to let anyone who has a FG stalling problem that there is one suspect Factory Ford tune out there that has a tendancy to cause stalling.

I tried to turn it off with HP tuners before with the coding advised by HP tuners but it didn't work, from memory the car didn't drive properly with that setting. This was a few years back when I tried. I would normally give a kunt answer also but cause legit question I thought a bit of -ock sucking was in order.

Tuning an unknown set of Injectors to perform well is problably one of the best learning exercises you can undertake IMO. This is why I did it and while it was a bit of a headache, I am glad I did it. I still scratch my head with the data Nizpro supplied with their drilled injectors and how on earth their installers used that really off data. While the Nizpro Injectors don't look pretty in the pictures, they still did the job if tuned properly in their day.

It is not a time effective solution to try and tune an injector without solid bench test data. You can get it in the ballpark to drive well and it is a good tuning exercise but it is more of an art than a science. I did this exercise with the Old Nizpro drilled injectors years ago. Nizpro gave their data out to their tuners but the cars did not cold start properly, a sign your numbers are out. I had some advice from a forum member that the injectors flowed alot less than advertised and to start off with a hi slope of 60lb/hr vs nispros 72lb/hr. This was key to getting me sane as I was hovering around the Nizpro numbers scratching my head. Once you start understanding how breakpoint, min p/w, injector offset all affect fueling down low then you can start juggling and with a good air fuel ratio meter and with alot of headache you can achieve good drivability. I'd rather just pay to get some ID injectors with proper data. Tuning high power/load is easy, tuning for drivability on an unknown injector sorts the men from the boys and maybe something you should leave for down the track with more tuning experience.

I did it but you got to use the right sealant. If you use the wrong stuff like I did it wont dry in the bush for ages (I left it for two weeks before driving). I used a flexible tube on the end of the gun to get it right into the voids in the rear bush and the drivers side bush. You cant get to the passenger side bush. If you could get a two pack sealant that would cure in there it would work fine. I think its worthwhile for a bush that is not munched, just cracked in the usual places but most sealants need air to dry and just wont dry like you think. If I did it again I would research on the best product to use instead of just using the average sealant. You also want a sealant that has a good hardness when dry.

Very impressive, going to solve alot of headaches.

What are the differences between the complete rear cradle of an FG Xr6t and a FG Xr6 N/A. Obviously the turbo has the M86 vs the M80 diff for the N/A The FG Xr6t has the adjustable camber bits. Does the FG N/a Xr6 have the adjustable camber bits. I thought the rest is pretty much the same?

Personally I would not use the QFM8000. This pad does not just leave dust. It will leave a glue residue down the side of your car which is difficult to get off. Its a big job to remove and I have yet to clean it off after two years. They do not last very long but they do grip. I only used them on the front. After that I put some DS2000 which are not too bad, less dusty than the Bendix that I used for many years and less aggressive on the disc. Got to replace my rears so looking if anything new out there, otherwise DS2000 or ultimates

Stick with hardwood, composites are hot to walk on. Use stainless steel decking screws and use two per board to keep them flat. Use decking oil as the other water repellant stuff can't be recoated that easy.

Had similar problem. Yes tune related but could not say if Ford induced or Tuner induced. Somewhere along the line I did something on HP TUners that solved it. Too many changes to know what I did. Basically I started from a stock tune and tuned myself. I would start by changing the Speed Density tuning maps to ones which are richer in the cruise area of the maps. In the FG the maps do vary a bit and caused me problems with stalling. You could change the numbers in that part of the map but its easier to copy and paste from a "good tune" to see if it does anything or not. Buy HP Tuners if it really bothers you. From my experience unlikely a Perth shop will solve it, but happy to say they will and take your money.

You have to get them from a distributor in the states. Check out their website. Its MRR wheels.

I am looking at getting some MRR design rims. They give you pretty much any offset, centre hub dia, PCD you want. Basically a custom rim to your specs and they do some Forged Roll formed rims for around 3k. Not a fan of jap rims cause you got to work around jap offsets and centre hub rings which I hate. The MRR FS1 and FS2 are not too bad.

I had a look at those superpro offset arms again. They are close to $1K. I have 4 of those trailing arms already so I intend welding them up the same way they have. A very easy job making those arms. Also on their website they recommended 51 to 55 offset and on second checking my measurements I think closer to 53mm offset on 19x10 will get a 305 tyre entirely under the guard when lowered. Thanks for the pointer. I found an American rim company that does custom PCD, custom offset and custom centre bore (I hate centering rings) on a cheaper FlowForm Forge constructed rim. Still checking them out but they have a couple of nice styles called the FS1 and FS2 that am considering. The company is MRR wheels.

Micky Thomson ET street radial drag tyre comes in 305/35/19 and also of late I see 285/35/19. It will depend on your offset whether you will be able to fit either. I am in the process of working out what offset rims to get to fit the 305/35/19 under the rear of a lowered FG sedan . From my calculations if I modify the trailing arm and use a 57mm offset / 19 x 10 rims I should be able have a low car without rubbing. In any case its a few mm either side of 57mm offset.

I had to replace my stock wheel (damaged) on my 3540 so got the 11 blade Kinguawa wheel. I did it with the turbo on the car, would not recommend but can be done. The first thing I noticed was it quietened the bearing noise of the turbo heaps. I think its a much better wheel than the original, a bit lighter from memeory. Bum dyno more power everywhere, revs better, nicer to drive, would recommend.

I put a Billet GTX wheel on stock front cover and goes great. I also didn't bother balancing mine and its fine. Those billet wheels are very well balanced to start off with. I think your major hurdle is removing and installing without buggering things up. You really should use a proper torque wrench for the job as many stuff up the turbine shaft by over torquing. I would do this if it was a good virgin and unmolested turbo. Then you can take the risk that runout of the turbine shaft is good. Otherwise if molested a bit hit and miss and best left to the pros.

Bluddy dentist, they work at a million miles an hour, charge like a wounded bull and still can't do a full extraction.

Changed alot of the house lighting to LEDs. Save heaps on power. What I do find with LEDs is the light output does drop quickly then levels out to about 90%. They have certainly come down in price and size also. Came across some 90mm clipsal 9W flush ceiling mounts with driver built into a really small package for around $22. And the LED fluro replacements are great cause they come on immediate instead of the flicker start fluros normally do.

I don't need to start the engine to pull the tune. Just need a charged up car battery and key to turn the ignition on. I plug a HP tuners interface into the OBD port and download the tune. Takes a few minutes. I don't mind going wherever the car is.

I am sure pulling the tune could still be organised. A few guys (not many) come on here just wanting to know what the forum members can do for them (wanting answers to questions) but when its the other way around they offer nothing. Knowing that this trans tune has busted shafts could go some way in knowing what trans tables are the problem. Could benefit forum members. But yeh, not saying you are that bloke but some just take, take take but give nothing back.

I have a couple of ZF tunes from two different tuners. The core tune is similar but there are also alot of differences. Do you want to let me pull the tune so I can do a compare to try and work out where the problem/ differences lie. There are certainly ZF tunes that will make the box survive and tunes that will break the shaft. One of the tunes I have is definately not a shaft breaker whilst the second one I don't know. The first one has alot less changes to the tables also. I use Hp tuners so can pull Sct3 tunes and sniper tunes, not SCT4 tunes. I am in Perth Scarborough area.

I do recommend the SPA Turbo VLRPF204 adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I have been using it for 2 year and bolts straight in pretty much. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VW-GOLF-Passat-1-8T-in-rail-Adjustable-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-FPR-VLRPF204-/182191670350?hash=item2a6b78444e:g:VGoAAOSwCGVX9UPt They are cheap also. Your trims are way off. Start with a stock tune and scale the injectors. An FG engine is well protected, it will pull all timing on a stock map. Don't be scared, one step at a time, just make sure your fuel system is set up right. Read everything on the HP tuners forum. Everything you need to know is there or on the net.

Phuck studs, for the manifold to head, I make sure that all the threads on the head are tapped right down to the bottom by running a tap to the bottom. Then I use allen key headed grade 8 bolts with nordlock washers. I measure for the right size bolt so when tightened up the thread grabs to the bottom of the hole. (I know you are not meant to tighten bolts into ally but it works if plenty of thread) Yes there are two holes where you need to elongate the hole a little to get the bolt in but no big deal, you can use studs there if you want. Pretty much the same on the turbo except two bolt holes do need elongation to get the allen key headed bolts in. I have other ways I secure studs but if I explained it you would call me crazy. The point is a stud and nut on its own will always loosen.