Engine Re Build

[RIP85]

why spend the dosh on a bottom end to put a sh*tty top end on it just imagine dropping a valve and having to do it all again. I didn't take the risk and would never for the price of a strip down and inspection

[gaz097]

Head had f all Kay's on it I, I checked check for flatness on a large nc machined pad I had floating around at work, and checked every single valve seat and valve when I done the springs and stem seals.

I'm happy with what I done. Short of doing a vacuum test or skimming it to find a soft spot it will be fine.

[Grego.77]

my 2 cents worth? ford 6s from the 60s have always had pretty good cranks eg a 600,000km motor I done just needed a linish and who wants stock clearances on a big engine?? You may want to check crank degree for indexing if your really fussy and undersize the crank but again ford 6s are pretty good from factory in my exp. Torque honing/boring I think is a must on any high comp/boost engine and filling back rings with the engine torqued always is a very time consuming job otherwise you end up with blow-by and catch cans ect to compensate your clearances you also have a problem with cylinder wall thickness on ford 6s as well as nearly every other engine out there and every block is different so a sonic test is a must,you might be lucky the first time or you might buy 4 blocks before finding a good one. Due to the design of the engine (2foot long crank) the main caps tend to walk even on a stock NA engine so it depends on how fussy you are if you want an align and tunnel hone as well as improving block twist with studs/girdles ect block decking and squaring is a dummy assemble and nearly every ford/chev is miles out the ford 6 being the worst iv ever come across. Spool rods are great but weigh nearly 90 grms more than stock but your pistons (forged) will be or hopefully depending what you buy will be lighter over stock and the ford 6 doesnt have much in counter weight so again how fussy are you? Timing chain oil pumps and guides cost money and help keep your engine together and more consistant and to me on a ford 6 is another must. Iv hit over $6000 doing it myself buying a block with only 60,000km on it for $200 having a friend who owns a machine shop and being lucky the first time with 250"+ wall thickness. Lets not get into the head costs but A basic service is all that's really needed with springs for 400kw Im only chasing 500HP at all 4 wheels but its an everydayer weighing in at 2100kg so what are you getting for $6500?? Bargain if you ask me.

[jimmixr]

I like ^^ this guy. Good,solid advice. I filed my ring sets with the torque plate.. The difference was eye opening and substantial. I guess it comes down to detail

Cheers

[masda74]

Far out dude. that was a mission to read through that Grego77. Good advise, but I gave up at the third line and went for a break.

Then came back and read the rest. Punctuation and paragraphs would have been nice.

Gaz097, If you have spent that much on the bottom end, it would have be a good idea to get the head sorted out as well.

Otherwise it will cost more in the long run when something goes wrong. Notice I did not say If something goes wrong.

Just my 2c and no I have not done any mechanical work myself on my car.

:(

[turbotrana]

"filling back rings with the engine torqued always is a very time consuming job otherwise you end up with blow-by and catch cans ect"

I cant see this being of any benefit. Please explain?

[gaz097]

Gaz097, If you have spent that much on the bottom end, it would have be a good idea to get the head sorted out as well.

Otherwise it will cost more in the long run when something goes wrong. Notice I did not say If something goes wrong.

Just my 2c and no I have not done any mechanical work myself on my car.

:(

Head was sorted. I bought it vacuum tested and checked flatness etc.

[gaz097]

Sam preece has a long motor for sale on Facebook. Was making around 1100rwhp and is selling for $6500. Bargain.

[genuine honest person]

so far have quotes for my next step of mods for the ute

$4000 for btr build for 500 rwkw with 2900 stall .

engine re build $8000 .

4 inch dump and cat $1050 .

walboro in tank pump $550 .

plenum $1600

flex plate $300 (from ratter )

turbo rear housing with flapper mod $600

turbo freshened up with new bearing housings (have ceramic bearings done 5000 klm ago with a 6plus6 billet wheel $ 200

water pump and idler pulleys etc $500

$16800 so far . that is without any labour or extra stuff that I might need .

my tuner said that the throttle relocation would only be good for 380 rwkw that is why I would need the plenum to achieve 400-420 rwkw

thinking that this might blow out to over $20,000

[FPV TRANNY]

Bugger