xrdreaming

Yeah but ya stick a disc in your games console, and away you go. No need to adjust anything, no worring about the bloody thing crashing on you during a game, it just works! No doubt the PC can crap all over the games console when it comes to picture quality, but for ease of use and game play (For those of us that are happy to enjoy the game play of a game and not worry about pixels and omg did you see the tearing of that polygon in the grandstand that I just drove past at 300kph) The console wins hands down. You can bring it home, plug it in and it works first time with wireless controllers and all the other goodies you can get for them. Want to play over the internet that's fine too. Actually want to go to a mates house and play linked, just pick it up and away you go. HD DVD or Blueray as well ready to go.

He died cancer but had a memory like an elephant

How big is your bloody hard drive Daz?

C series 3 speed full manaul reverse valve body and a B&M quicksilver shifter =

The oil pressure gauge comes with a piggy back adapter to connect the engine block and piggy back the orignal sensor onto. Go with the electric one, it is easy to install and you won't have oil lines running through your cabin.

I just pulled my switch out and had a look for you. The brown wire behind the fog light switch is the lighting wire, your earth and accessories 12 volt can be connected to any earth or acc you can find.

Not sure if anyone over there will be able to help you out today, but tomorrow you could try Outlaw Speedshop 176 Grote Street, Adelaide Ph: (08) 8231 6413 or 8231 6899 I have ordered quite a few things from them overy the years and they have a good range of things in stock. They are open Saturdays too.

Go to the fog light switch for your lighting signal and leave the traction control one alone. That is how mine are done.

These are the BF / Terry spec brakes I belive with RDA rotors, they are bigger than us old BA folk have but Daz is right 650 for RDA rotors hmmmm.

Extra Dry Platinum and Pure Blond

Oh I'm a sick puppy Daz, no limits here. Hi my name is Dean, it has been 2 days since my last kw increase.

Welcome. Yep, some cold air on the pod is the go, injectors and fuel pump will be your limit.

I am somewhat of an auto expert by default having been involved in 7 rebuilds myself. The symptoms you describe certainly sound like planetaries on the way out. The noise can last a few days or weeks and then with no warning it will lock in a gear and won't budge. The cryoing of the gear sets is not necessary (We did one set to see how it would go and they lasted the shortest time frame.) Without seeing the box it is true that an estimate is hard to make, if metal is everywhere through the box and stall convertor it will all need a good flush. New planetary gears, kevlar bands, better clutch packs some valve body mods and a trans cooler should give you a box that will cope with 300 odd rwkw for some time. These boxes are far from bullet proof even when rebuilt, but the above will give you a strong box. A build like that would be between $2500-$3500 in Melbourne depending on who done the work. The stall quote sounds a bit high, closer to a grand $1200 max. A good cooler will set you back $500-600 so that is in the ball park. Good luck with it all, let us know how it goes.

I am going to Winton anyway Gary so count me in.

Dingah is right, insurance companies will let you take out cover in you parents/ someone elses name and lie about not being the main driver. I have seen it happen. It's no skin off thier nose, if you read the fine print on your policy in particular the disclosure section, you will see that if they investigate and find that you lied about being the main driver then they don't have to pay up, so they will take your premium from you year after year, but don't expect them to pay out when you need them. The investigator does a quick little bit of digging, finds out that you own the car, you are the only driver to get any traffic infringments in the car, check credit card statements to check who has been buying fuel for the car. Says gee your a nice guy buying a car for your inlaws and paying for all of the fuel and the servicing of it for them. Next thing you know you are looking down the wrong end of a man with a curly wig. Don't think it doesn't happen guys I do some work for some of the insurance companies and they have investigators that do nothing but check these types of claims out all day.

A good mate of mine as a WR426, it's got some real snot about it. He never as any problems with it reliability wise, it has been a great bike

I had the same problem back then, it was Octorber 2004 when I ran my 11.7 @ 119, edit was not even around back then. I could only stall to about 2700rpm without limp mode kicking in. Still the mph would have been close to the max the ute was going to run.

I would agree that you are just about on the limit of the Unichip, you will certainly gain a lot by going to an edit and that is speaking from experience. I ran a similar time a couple of years back now with the same setup as you. The unichip was at it's limit and I changed over to edit.

That was always my understanding too. Once they are open, they are open, the cooler thermostats are not great for built engines as the forged pistons want to get up to operating temps quickly.

that's a great time for a Unichip, close to one of the top private driver times with a Unichip if my memory serves me correctly. Well Done. What power levels are you running, about 330-335rwkw at a guess?

I am sorry but I have to agree, at your age that is not a bad quote.

Sounds like they may not have adjusted the frictions and bands properly. Get it back to them though as if it is the bands, you will lose 2nd and 4th gears pretty quickly

I might have to dust the old girl off and meet him at the track. I always enjoy being "Flogged off"

Welcome aboard mate, have good look around and remember that the search button is your friend. If you are thinking of doing anything to your ride, chances are it has been discussed before on here so have a look around. Good luck with the wait for your car, it's a killer!

If you are going for cooler,injectors and springs then a fuel pump upgrade would be a wise thing and logical step with those mods. The standard fuel pumps can start to fail over time but also they are inconsistant as to what power levels they will sustain. The amount of power you will be able to achieve with the mods you are making will be more than capable of out flowing your factory fuel pump and it will hold you back. As for ebay, it really is like playing tattslotto. I was at Autobarn just last week when someone came in asking for some parts for a fuel pump that he had purchased from ebay. After checking the parts should have come with the pump and could not be ordered seperately, the pump was a copy the ebay seller was no help and the customer left the store with a brand new genuine pump and was stuck with he copy.