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bjc

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About bjc

  • Birthday 11/03/1978

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Townsville
  • Interests
    Cars in general, Car Stereo and Horsepower! Home Theatre also and I Enjoy having a chat over coffee...

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  1. I think you'll be alright with just some steel plate added. You are an engineer after all so I'd hope common sense and mechanical sympathy plays a big part in decision making. The Internet tends to up play things more than they are due to social media's being instant access to the world. A few broken bolts, housings or cradles at the extreme are generally from people with decent power, full slicks (or a sticky track) and regular drag racing with little regards to components as a 60ft means everything. Break, fix, upgrade and repeat... Again, that's my two cents and the take away from my dribble above is, weld some plate because it's cheap, easy enough to do for piece of mind if anything and bro time with some beers on the job! Post pics once done... [emoji1531]
  2. Most recommend the Superpro for the front side two and the main rear. Unsure of the tensile of the bolt but I'd reckon if it isn't flopping around as much than it's less likely to break due to flexing but that's my 2 cents on it. I'd think the hat would go first but as you said axle tramping will kill most things but it's less likely with unworn bushes. Decent control blade bushes made a difference also...
  3. How much are the Aeroflow turbos as I'm considering a Pulsar turbo? I'll probably go the GTX3584 equivalent or the 82 (like everyone!) as I don't want stupid power and would be sticking with FG intake and exhaust manifolds and internal gate on my F6X due to the expense. Longevity isn't an issue for me anymore as I rarely drive my car...
  4. I thought my territory was bad from the front diff constantly spewing oil (and a cv boot blow out) but that one is a DeLux effort!
  5. Before I forget...wrt smoking the front tyres when launching, what about an "up stop" (unsure what you call them on a car, droop limiter?) strap or other means on the front suspension? Unsure if it would work on a full size car as opposed to my experience with RC cars just differently! Chains or snatch straps bolted from chassis to the arms to stop the car lifting the front end? Probably violent and dangerous but anything for the cause [emoji16] Otherwise something in the rear (like the airbags) that resists squat to a large degree. Just thinking out loud...
  6. I'm talking '04-'05 when no one knew what they were doing. I still had TSI piggybacks on both of my cars at the time and transitioned the xr6t to xcal1.
  7. No issues with it in closed loop? Doesn't shoosh (that's obviously the tech-a-nogical name) on and off like they used to do back in the early days under half to three quarter throttle?
  8. Don't dig so hard then lol. Or boost by gear thingy!? Lock the transfer case and full spool the front diff... I miss the army Unimog so much. So much fun on wet clay with air lockers all round! (I don't miss the army though)
  9. Meh... The TT is a street light brawler!
  10. Check out Maxx Performance posts on Facebook. Zane has welded a few of these and with his territory originally. 6mm plate on a 45° from the drivers side of the bush housing and a small plate on the passenger side also. This is from my fading memory...
  11. To rich for me with the "flash" speedflow fittings! I'll be using the standard ptfe hose if I can figure out how to u-turn them to the passenger front or rear door area. Brass barbs or my preferred method (1/2" copper pipe laying around the house) into Repco special rubber hose... The choice of champions!
  12. Previous owner said it's an original PW stage 2 but unsure, I trust him on that though. It's fairly big but haven't got the front bumper off yet to measure it. Very similar to the Rapid cooler size (thicker I think?). IAT's are generally 10-12°C above ambient and ambient temp was 29 when I last drove the car. It's generally after I've driven to the shops (coolant only gets to 70 at most on the trips from home) and parked the car for 20+mins then start it back up. IAT's are at 45°C from then and unless I give it a squirt on the trip home (60km zone) it'll stay at 42-44 regardless. This seems to be the case even when the ambient temp is colder around 24... Thermostat is an 80 or 82 and fans come on at 82 and off at 80, trans stays at or below 80 with the stock heat exchanger still. I've built an air filter box out of corflute atm before I settle on design and thought it was because the SS hot side goes through this area that it was holding the heat but I wrapped it in "quality" silver insulation air bubblewrap from hello fresh (food delivery mob) and it made no difference which I'm glad I didn't exhaust wrap it first now! Summer heat will come soon as the temp is all over the place atm so if it goes to 60°C like it was without the airbox then I'll have to keep testing.
  13. Water line from the thermostat area goes to the exhaust manifold side, oil on top with the white paint mark. You can see the choice loose bolt on the left next to the banjo fitting... What way does the water go into the turbo? From the thermostat area or the back of the water pump? I'm questioning whether I should change the IC piping to alloy instead of stainless as I think it's retaining the heat in the pipe? Intake temps seem to point to that or because of my MAP sensor location it's reading the SS's radiant heat??? It would be an expensive test just to see though as I cannot weld alloy...
  14. You reckon? I can't actually remember when I first saw it loose but I'll say 3-5yrs ago. I've never been able to get it properly tight as there no access and from memory I used a modified pressed steel tool from a router or some other chinesium power tool to tighten it up. Needs loctite...
  15. Oil "in" on the top and water down the left side (wheel arch side) from memory. I keep having a turbine bolt on the housing that lines up with the water banjo keeps coming undone. It's the only thing stopping it from falling out so need to get some blue liquid loctite...
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