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It was Zane from Maxx Performance that told me years ago (when he first started making the 2 piece 3rd diff bush from hdpe) that the dump pipe just needed a big hammer. I have an FG exhaust manifold but it needs a serious linish or probably a mill if my father inlaws is big enough for the job as it's a fricking banana! Most of this stuff is a pipe dream for me in my current state but hopefully that will change by years end... I have most items for the usual mods except for the dump valve for the exhaust as I don't need a 3.5" even though I'd like a full system

Have you tried a 4" dump pipe from a B or FG series as I've heard they just need a good belting with a hammer for some clearance issues? I went to try the two I've got a few years ago but couldn't get the nuts (or bolts?) undone from the housings so I gave up. My boost was similar to yours with 18 in the mid and around 14 up top, punched out cat though and the usual bung removal otherwise stock exhaust and it sounds like a sh*t diesel truck when idling lol

Unsure what the coolant ID size is (19mm maybe)? I'd just use copper pipe as it's easily flared and bent but that's me. Pretty sure they sell a pipe to connect them and fits to the old mounting locations but unsure of the name...

What lowest temp do you lot recommend before raping the ZF? My cold starts are usually 30°C being in NQ but the ZF gets to about 60-65°C quickly and then warm up is slow when cruising around town to get to operating temp of 78°C (thermostat is 82°C)...

I've been missing one of the 4 bolts (bottom front) from the turbine to exhaust manifold for years now although I rarely drive so the car just sits in an openish carport. I couldn't see or hear anything leaking but over time the arm on the stock wastegate actuator has rusted in a section lining up with roughly the same area. The engines had a misfire for well over a year or so (I'm guessing again) as well and changing the usual things didn't fix it. I swear it started when the oil gauge came on one day after starting it from sitting for months but it's probably coincidence even though I don't believe in them! Need to replace the fuel pump as the pressure has gone to sh*t on the GFB reg with gauge and the grub screw never moved so it's a multi problem ordeal with this F6X. It'll get sorted one day or I'll sell/burn it depending on dollars they're worth... Keep us updated on random randomness though

If it's the same as something like new Mazda's and their farking useless stop start function then just jam something like a piece of cardboard, vinyl or plastic voucher card in the side of the button to hold it in. This works for the Mazda and doesn't disable the alarm system when the car is locked like disconnecting the wire at the bonnet hinge does (which keeps it in service mode)...

The issue you'll have with a drop in reg on the territory rail is if you use a gauge the vacuum line to the brake booster has to be wrenched and zip locked out of the road. I can take a picture of mine but it's not a clean fit not to mention the back fuel injector plug is hard up against it as well. I'm using a turbosmart gauge but even the smaller GFB gauge would no doubt be in the road... If you're going for a fuel pressure sensor later on then I'd just recommend going a remote mounted reg.

Lead acid in cold weather will be dull anyway but it's an easy check for current draw with a clamp or multimeter with the car locked... Sounds like it might not be holding fuel pressure over extended periods which would be why hot starting is good, otherwise if the car has been tuned then it may need some attention for cold cranking. That's my 2 cents

Yes, up until the AWD series 2 SY and from then the geometry was finally changed to the ball joint facing up. The link has everything that is required to change over, pretty sure the abs sensors require shaving down to fit or some mod also https://territorycrazy.myshopify.com/products/ford-territory-awd-syii-conversion

@k31th I assume you can use an OBDLink MX+ (BT) or even the EX (USB) with the Kayhan and any number of the obd2 apps? OBDLink, Car Scanner, Torque, Forscan lite and even Virtual Dyno... It'd be a fully sik Nissan Skyline spec beast showing all the parameters! YEWWW.... Pity you can't get the Kayhan paddle shifters for the BA (seems exclusive to those FG willy wankers) lol. Their website is atrocious btw

Forgot to add last night (crashed as I finally got covid!) that if you have axle tramp issues in the ute (my BA did, surface dependant and it had the usual leafs removed to lower it. Manual in my case though) check out either Mal Woods tramp rod "caltrac" setup or cheaper alternative is WogRocket Industries (Mick) in Mackay Qld as I'm pretty sure he has/had a kit which was way cheaper. I assume this is your build thread like Puffs...

Any updates @hjtrbo? I've not built a barra but I reckon stick with the stock cams, they'll last way long enough imo. The only things I'd be worried about are the fuel pump (won't do 500 on E85) 1000cc injectors (unsure unless your fuel pressure is high af) and turbo definitely won't if it's a GT3582. Go a Ti 525 (walbro) or the new Bosch even for the fuel pump, if injectors won't then sell them and the pump and buy way bigger as you're going to be there in the end anyway as resistance is futile... Turbo go a Pulsar 35 1050, GTX3584RS or bigger. ZF mods is up to you but axles I wouldn't bother unless you drag race, same for tailshaft. If you only use street tyres then they are the weak link that keeps the rest alive unless of course you shift wrong etc.... You play you pay!

Are you putting it back on E85 or just the 98oct with the DP water meth kit? Easier to work on the car without the engine in there! Forgot to add fwiw Steve Morris Engines quickly showed a billet sump (main caps included) and head porting for the barra in his latest YouTube video this morning. Hopefully he'll cover it some more with information...

I just needed that joiner as the oem plastic is munced pretty good right at the TB end. My kit was custom made by the previous owner and is SS piping and tbh that kit looks almost identical to mine except with some extra silicone joiners... Current tune is mild with 18psi in the midrange (14psi up top). Lucky I didn't give it a nut full yesterday as I left the vacuum line off the fuel reg... You'd think it would be easy getting a 1.25" to 1" hose (from IC pipe to bypass valve) but nope... Think I'll just do all my shopping online as Townsville is useless! At least the thieves do it easy here I guess

I should have taken a pic of the silicone before fitting it as it's a 180° with a slight down angle (droopy dick) about 2" from one end. It's only a mild droop (unlike myself) which really should be 30° give or take... When it blows off on the next hit I'll remove and upload pics of it and also fitted (how sketchy it is. My back is rooted so I've been gaming all day on the Sony and currently killing time while I load 11000+ mame games onto the PS4! LOL I just grabbed Elden Ring today thanks to a top backporter uploading it for us but I digress...

I got it on but it's the bottom of the TB that it wouldn't seat on properly. I had to install it upright then rotate it to the point of pulling away and I had to use the thin clamps instead of the 10mm+ one that was for the TB... Either way it'll probably keep coming off unless I trim the coil cover or fit the FG intake manifold but I'm not that keen atm!

Yeh I thought it odd considering every other sensor is mounted directly to either the block or directly off hardline connected to the engine also... I guess they are covering their insurance arses! I've got a TS gauge atm to set base and whatever sensor I buy (probably around the hundy mark) I can compare to give me an idea of accuracy. On a side note, I installed a silicone intake elbow to the TB that I bought from TerritoryCrazy, it was meant to fit easy due to the Territory rocker cover (similar shape as the OEM 180° bend) but it doesn't... After spending considerable time with it I'll see how it goes but long story short I removed the stock bypass valve and just fit the NOB (Nizpro Overboost Valve) to try and nail down where the leak is. The turbo flutter is terrible and makes me cringe even with light throttle lifting!

To add to my previous post, this is what I was looking at although US based - https://lowdoller-motorsports.com/collections/pressure-sensors/products/pn-8990150-0-150-psi-pressure-sensor I'd prefer not to spend a fortune on just the sensor as it needs to just track flow consistently regardless if it has an error (as long as that error is constant)...

To save more topic starters I'm chasing recommendations for a fuel pressure sensor to install into my GFB drop in reg (as opposed to the basic needle gauge). I'm looking on the efi solutions website at this sensor atm - SKU: 133-011 (150psi) but unsure if it's OK to use directly off the FPR? It does mentions that it should be remote mounted and doesn't mention being liquid filled but appears the same as other filled sensors so any feedback with experience would be appreciated thanks.

Replying from your Feb post but wrt the DSC issue and the shudder, the shudder is the abs activating (generally below 15km/hr ish) and is either a faulty wheel speed sensor which could be a dodgy plug connector, sensor magnetic tip full of steel shavings or it's just corroded or in my case if you are using aftermarket CV axles ($100 ebay axles in my case) that have pressed on reluctor rings. After buying a new abs sensor from my mechanic (he said drivers side front as I have an F6X) I found the ring was loose and slid 15mm outwards toward the wheel hub. This put the ring out of the sensors range so it loosened my teeth for a few days driving around braking... He used aviation gasket maker (or similar) to hold it in place as he wasn't keen on tacking a few welds like I said to do. I've not heard of any other cases of the reluctor ring issue apart from me but with oem they are machined into the CV and fwd are on the hub from memory. Worth a quick look at them anyway if the symptom persists and the sensors are single (8mm?) bolt to remove and check then look through the hole to see if it's lined up while they are out. That's my feedback anyway...

I wouldn't be to concerned, I had one of those 6 bolts that continously kept backing out (I assume it's cracked like someone else here has previously said) and when I finally bought some more loctite and just slooged it on I've had no more problems (apart from a missing exhaust manifold to turbine housing bolt missing)... Mild tune on my F6X reference.

I personally think you're better off getting some larger fuel injectors second hand (42lb would even do it and someone would give them away...) if it doesn't have any and getting a tune. If your intercooler is up to the task then the only thing that may hold you back from a consistent 300rwkw would be valve springs but it's hit and miss and at this stage you need a touch up to the tune (any reputable tuner would run, check and then probably overwrite their own basic BA turbo tune and auto (if it is) gearbox settings to snap your spine on gear shifts to keep it alive no problems and away you go... It's all about the minimum amount of cash from this point so that's my recommendation otherwise just book a tune as is and go. You could go full sketchatron and remove the compressor wheel and housing from the rooted turbo (if they aren't chewed up) and install them onto the 3582 you currently have fitted (as long as the turbine is the same but who knows just by texting) and see how that goes? It's a simple job requiring a heatgun and the wheel just slides off at temp... Nut is lefthand thread.

I'll have to read this thread again... I've got a love hate relationship with my F6X now and it needs maintenance that I'm struggling with! Do you have a back up fast car or are you ditching it altogether? I'd say remove the complete driveline and drop an old model -F or H ute onto it that's beat up for a work mule/sleeper to roast unsuspecting dkheads... Good luck with it all.

In Newy on holidays seeing the family atm... My daughter got covid a month ago from her school and the wife and I couldn't get it even though I hugged and kissed her every day. She had less issues than the yearly flu that goes around up north so it's a bigger joke imo! I'll be smashing my immune system here via rum overdose so will see... No one cares about it anymore and would rather see Putin sniped from a mile away instead.

All that effort and then they choke the life out of the engine with a 1" ID cast pipe under the battery! Interesting none the less... I'll add that back in the early days I did prefer the look of the APS intake at the throttle body, this was before Nizpro released but they were expensive as hell even though I still believe their intercoolers were designed right. No actual facts just my opinion on entry bottom, exit top being the most efficient yet you never see it anymore...