bjc

Remove the head and clean it up to see unless you know a way to clear it without removing the head (I wouldn't crank it over regardless). It's another head gasket as well unless you can reuse it being a fire ring? Spray some inox or oil in the cylinder if leaving it otherwise maybe pressurising the cylinder would be easier than the coolant system to see if air enters the coolant or vice versa if you can pressurise the coolant system without killing the radiator. Not sure you could apply enough pressure for either but I'm just spit balling as it's becoming the never ending story...it has been great for the knowledge department but your back, bank account and sanity is what takes the toll!

You need to crack out the mig and weld the front and rear diffs and the transfer case planetary! Edit: flames need more methanol. I take no responsibility for your death or any other living thing on or off the road after the above mods (this includes being airborne in said vehicle)... 😁

That's farked! You're a better man than me wrt setbacks. I'm not driving mine anymore (unless I really have to for appointments) until next year when I can use a spanner as it's just to frustrating for me with its multitude of issues. I'd burn the cunce but the insurance isn't even worth it to me so I'd rather see it turn to dust...that's my relationship with the car anyways! My attitude might change when I can lift more than 2kg and allowed to put my farking arms above my head but that's for later. Keep the good, bad and ugly coming 😂

The Haltech isn't stuck on wot afr for your cruising? I assume it runs a wideband and has CL fuel control. All injectors are firing together for that old school carby style smell lol

Seems like the coatings works for you though... I've seen Steve Morris using whatever brand he has gone to now for the piston skirts (line to line?) and he's happy with it along with what he calls a hard anodising on the crown. The Motoroil Geek and his offsider with whatever they use and now testing coatings on their total seal piston rings.

Did you swap the battery to see if that sorted the cutout issue or not pushing your luck and going ahead with the rebuild? Keep the updates coming even the small sh*t as I'm out for the year and this stuff makes me feel better lol.

Yeah I see the hassle of the jet installation. You could just set the injection DC to only be 75% or so at your current full boost (if you did install port injection). Unsure how the Aquamist works but a basic system would be set to 35psi max so by your 26 odd psi tune you'd have 75ish percent injection and with the FAV it does the pulsing instead of the pump in other systems so it should meter correctly? All you need now is to grab a litre of nitro from your nearest hobby store and do some mixology testing lol

Is that with just pre throttle body injection and not port for the meth?

EGT's with a decent duration (drag strip or high speed full throttle on the highway) is where it makes a big difference along with lower intake temps. Fwiw, I always mix ratios by weight not volume. Probably not hugely critical with water/meth injection unlike making RC car nitro mixes but we mixed our water/meth via weight as well... You've probably got a hydrometer though.

I'm interested to see your feedback on the water meth tuning as I've followed it relatively closely for years (pre 2010). I've got a Snow Performance kit but never installed it on the F6X only the BA turbo as a knock buffer. A mate had the same kit (single nozzle) on his FG and with basic mods on 98oct 12.2 ish afr made an easy 380kw with the kit (500cc nozzle I think). 420kw was the limit (stock gt3582r no flapper mod) but with no safeties in place with our basic hobbs switch kit and a daily 380kw was plenty. 3 degrees easily advanced with 6 being probably the limit on a non direct port install but interested to hear your experience Puff...

What Puff said but it's a karnt to get out and you'll think it's welded in as even the c clip is troublesome, gentle violence is the key... For the reg I think I ended up using adjustable pliers with a piece of bike tube around it so it didn't slip and so I didn't crush the reg but as soon as it twisted I got it out no problems.

It was Zane from Maxx Performance that told me years ago (when he first started making the 2 piece 3rd diff bush from hdpe) that the dump pipe just needed a big hammer. I have an FG exhaust manifold but it needs a serious linish or probably a mill if my father inlaws is big enough for the job as it's a fricking banana! Most of this stuff is a pipe dream for me in my current state but hopefully that will change by years end... I have most items for the usual mods except for the dump valve for the exhaust as I don't need a 3.5" even though I'd like a full system

Have you tried a 4" dump pipe from a B or FG series as I've heard they just need a good belting with a hammer for some clearance issues? I went to try the two I've got a few years ago but couldn't get the nuts (or bolts?) undone from the housings so I gave up. My boost was similar to yours with 18 in the mid and around 14 up top, punched out cat though and the usual bung removal otherwise stock exhaust and it sounds like a sh*t diesel truck when idling lol

Unsure what the coolant ID size is (19mm maybe)? I'd just use copper pipe as it's easily flared and bent but that's me. Pretty sure they sell a pipe to connect them and fits to the old mounting locations but unsure of the name...

What lowest temp do you lot recommend before raping the ZF? My cold starts are usually 30°C being in NQ but the ZF gets to about 60-65°C quickly and then warm up is slow when cruising around town to get to operating temp of 78°C (thermostat is 82°C)...

I've been missing one of the 4 bolts (bottom front) from the turbine to exhaust manifold for years now although I rarely drive so the car just sits in an openish carport. I couldn't see or hear anything leaking but over time the arm on the stock wastegate actuator has rusted in a section lining up with roughly the same area. The engines had a misfire for well over a year or so (I'm guessing again) as well and changing the usual things didn't fix it. I swear it started when the oil gauge came on one day after starting it from sitting for months but it's probably coincidence even though I don't believe in them! Need to replace the fuel pump as the pressure has gone to sh*t on the GFB reg with gauge and the grub screw never moved so it's a multi problem ordeal with this F6X. It'll get sorted one day or I'll sell/burn it depending on dollars they're worth... Keep us updated on random randomness though

If it's the same as something like new Mazda's and their farking useless stop start function then just jam something like a piece of cardboard, vinyl or plastic voucher card in the side of the button to hold it in. This works for the Mazda and doesn't disable the alarm system when the car is locked like disconnecting the wire at the bonnet hinge does (which keeps it in service mode)...

The issue you'll have with a drop in reg on the territory rail is if you use a gauge the vacuum line to the brake booster has to be wrenched and zip locked out of the road. I can take a picture of mine but it's not a clean fit not to mention the back fuel injector plug is hard up against it as well. I'm using a turbosmart gauge but even the smaller GFB gauge would no doubt be in the road... If you're going for a fuel pressure sensor later on then I'd just recommend going a remote mounted reg.

Lead acid in cold weather will be dull anyway but it's an easy check for current draw with a clamp or multimeter with the car locked... Sounds like it might not be holding fuel pressure over extended periods which would be why hot starting is good, otherwise if the car has been tuned then it may need some attention for cold cranking. That's my 2 cents

Yes, up until the AWD series 2 SY and from then the geometry was finally changed to the ball joint facing up. The link has everything that is required to change over, pretty sure the abs sensors require shaving down to fit or some mod also https://territorycrazy.myshopify.com/products/ford-territory-awd-syii-conversion

@k31th I assume you can use an OBDLink MX+ (BT) or even the EX (USB) with the Kayhan and any number of the obd2 apps? OBDLink, Car Scanner, Torque, Forscan lite and even Virtual Dyno... It'd be a fully sik Nissan Skyline spec beast showing all the parameters! YEWWW.... Pity you can't get the Kayhan paddle shifters for the BA (seems exclusive to those FG willy wankers) lol. Their website is atrocious btw

Forgot to add last night (crashed as I finally got covid!) that if you have axle tramp issues in the ute (my BA did, surface dependant and it had the usual leafs removed to lower it. Manual in my case though) check out either Mal Woods tramp rod "caltrac" setup or cheaper alternative is WogRocket Industries (Mick) in Mackay Qld as I'm pretty sure he has/had a kit which was way cheaper. I assume this is your build thread like Puffs...

Any updates @hjtrbo? I've not built a barra but I reckon stick with the stock cams, they'll last way long enough imo. The only things I'd be worried about are the fuel pump (won't do 500 on E85) 1000cc injectors (unsure unless your fuel pressure is high af) and turbo definitely won't if it's a GT3582. Go a Ti 525 (walbro) or the new Bosch even for the fuel pump, if injectors won't then sell them and the pump and buy way bigger as you're going to be there in the end anyway as resistance is futile... Turbo go a Pulsar 35 1050, GTX3584RS or bigger. ZF mods is up to you but axles I wouldn't bother unless you drag race, same for tailshaft. If you only use street tyres then they are the weak link that keeps the rest alive unless of course you shift wrong etc.... You play you pay!

Are you putting it back on E85 or just the 98oct with the DP water meth kit? Easier to work on the car without the engine in there! Forgot to add fwiw Steve Morris Engines quickly showed a billet sump (main caps included) and head porting for the barra in his latest YouTube video this morning. Hopefully he'll cover it some more with information...

I just needed that joiner as the oem plastic is munced pretty good right at the TB end. My kit was custom made by the previous owner and is SS piping and tbh that kit looks almost identical to mine except with some extra silicone joiners... Current tune is mild with 18psi in the midrange (14psi up top). Lucky I didn't give it a nut full yesterday as I left the vacuum line off the fuel reg... You'd think it would be easy getting a 1.25" to 1" hose (from IC pipe to bypass valve) but nope... Think I'll just do all my shopping online as Townsville is useless! At least the thieves do it easy here I guess