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OED666

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Everything posted by OED666

  1. The customer either needs to contact us, or the distributor they purchased it from. It will be assessed on a case by case basis. If the car has been used at a track, it has no warranty. No clutch supplier will warrant a clutch used for race use! Please inform me if this is not the case. As for clutches failing with less than the rated power. My work ute is a VE SS-V. It had our Option 3 fitted within 1,000k's of buying it new. It now has 125,xxxk's on the clock. It is my work vehicle, and I'll be honest, it gets driven "spiritedly"! I have NEVER done a burnout in this car, but it gets pushed through the gears a lot! Yes, it only has 245RWKW (nothing fantastic) but I do 1,000k's a week, driven at PowerCruise, carrying WAY too much weight (had rear upper spring bushes replaced last week, Expensive Daewoo in Brisbane have never supplied them before) and the clutch is fine. Do you think manner of operation has anything to do with clutch life? Can someone please answer this for me... You purchase a set of tyres for your car, go and do burnouts etc and then go back to the tyre shop and say the tyres are worn? Do you think they will just throw another set of tyres on for free?
  2. Attached is a photo of the goodness coming out of a factory spigot bearing. This clutch plate had grease on the flywheel side due to the spigot bearing not being replaced.
  3. The bellhousing on a T56 is removable from the transmission. When attempting to remove the transmission from the vehicle, the transmission itself needs to be unbolted from the bellhousing first, and then the bellhousing removed. When reinstalling, the bellhousing goes on first, then the transmission. BA Mk1 XR6T's with the 5 speed can not have the bellhousing removed. They are tricky to remove and install! Also the FG Supercharged V8 has an intergral bellhousing, which makes it hard to remove and refit.
  4. We see most clutch failures are due to poor installation. Yes we do have a number of problems, but they can be attributed to the following reasons... Not following instructions.. Pretty simple really!The number of workshops that just throw the clutch and transmission back in without checking the crush on the slave, and then call with a problem! Did you read the instructions? No... Well apart from installing it for you, what do you want us to do? Covering the input shaft in greaseThe grease when hot spray's over the clutch plate. Since when do clutch plates need a lubricant? Not fitting supplied spigot bearingThe factory spigot bearing has exposed needle rollers with grease in them. This grease can eventually work its way onto the flywheel, and cause contamination Fitting transmission with the bellhousing onThis is quite common. It more often than not bends the clutch plate and causes a shudder. If you were lucky enough to fit the transmission with the bellhouing on and not bend the plate, go buy a lotto ticket! Not bedding in the clutch for the recommended timeIt is very common for some workshops with Dyno's to perform upgrades on the vehicle, fit a new clutch and then wheel it straight on the dyno. Vehicle owners might classify 2000km's of highway driving as bedding the clutch in. It needs general use, and nice normal driving. Engine oil leaksPretty self explainatary really. Any oil contamination on the clutch will cause it to fail. We take photos of the clutches we get back for rebuilds, and 99% have oil on them! We have the photo proof to back it up! Excessive clutch slippingWhy do people feel the need to ride the clutch off the line on a daily basis. Get off the clutch as soon as possible, as it only causes the friction material to heat up, and wear. I understand at the drags to try and get a decent 60ft. I personally launch at 5000rpm and slip the clutch, but if it fails, its my fault! You play, you pay! No one will warrant a clutch which has been abused! Yes we use NPC for some of our components, however Mal Wood Automotive and NPC have developed the clutch range you know today! So instead of pointing the finger and puting all the blame on the product, how about look at the big picture and see what else is involved in the issues. If anyone wants to call me and discuss a clutch issue, my number is 0427 716 550. I don't mean to come across as rude, arrogant etc, but I suppose that's how I feel when I am passionate about a product and industry I work in. Paul
  5. It can be eliminated. The pre-load on the bearings needs to be increased, and it will quieten the trans
  6. Transmax Z is suitable for T56's with carbon synchros, however FG's have brass synchros.
  7. They are a little tricky to remove. When we refit them we cut off a little part that sticks out on the starter pocket. It serves no purpose, so can be cut without a problem. When I get back to work I'll take a picture and show what I mean.
  8. If the car suffers from axle tramp you will continue to break diff hats. Large diameter wheels, high tyre pressures and standard shocks are generally fitted to cars which continually break these components.
  9. A local dealer was going to send some for us to try, but we are yet to receive it. We have used Castrol Dex 3 for quite a few years. You need to use a Dex 3 mineral based oil with this transmission.
  10. We can now offer an Option 3 and Option 3 Plus to suit the 5 speed. It uses a lower offset flywheel, and thicker sandwich plate. It uses the same clutch and pressure plate as an ordinary Option 3 and Option 3 Plus..
  11. here is a link to the hardy spicer site, which should list the coupling
  12. Panda, no need for a wreckers tailshaft, just change to the correct slip yoke and job is done, as previously said. All 6 cylinders from BA onwards have 23 spline input shaft, 5 or 6 speed.
  13. Where do we start... BA and BF's run a T56 6 speed, with a 2 piece cluster. The FG runs the TR-6060 with a single piece cluster. The TR-6060 has larger gears than the T56, however they still have the same bearings. We have found that the pre-load on the bearings in the transmissions isn't quite up to a specification that we build them to. We would recommend that you still run the standard transmission oil in these gearboxes. The rollover noise can be eliminated or made much quieter with blueprinting. Clutch plates also play a part in rollover noise. If the plate is not insulated, it can amplify the roll-over noise. Try lifting the rev's slowly 400-500rpm and see if it goes away. I know the T56 in my ED XR6 is noisey as hell, due to the large cam and lumpy idle. If the box was behind a standard engine, it would be nice and quiet. Also, the T56 fitted to my work ute, is dead quiet at idle after a 2 hour drive to work, and the box has over 100,000k's on it. Just for intrest sake... early VE's ran a T56 with a 1 piece cluster, and the later VE's are fitted with a TR-6060 and 1 piece cluster.
  14. Castrol changed the dye in Transmax Z, and that's all they claim is changed, however we have encountered a few shift quality issues with the TR-6060 and TKO. We are supplying DexIII with our new TKO's and TR-6060 based transmissions, however Transmax Z can still be used with the T56, as they have carbon based synchro's
  15. I could bring one down and meet you at Yatala if you like on Tuesday night.
  16. We now offer a lower offset flywheel for the Turbo, which allows the fitment of a V8 pressure plate with more clamp. There is an increase in rotating mass over the traditional flywheel and clutch setup. We have dealers in Sydney (Intune Motorsport), Melbourne (Pitlane Automotive), and Perth (West Racing).
  17. They are 100000000% not a dual mass flywheel! I'll bet anything on it! Dual mass flywheels are normally fitted to diesel and GM V6 engines to take the harshness out of a rough idle.
  18. What box is the car out of? Reason I ask is there is different input shaft lengths.
  19. All the Ford 6 cylinder wheels are solid, not dual mass. The BA Mk1 6 cylinder had a 2 piece flywheel. It had an automatic flex plate, with a cast iron drive plate bolted to it. Nice and light!! :D
  20. DexIII is a mineral based automatic transmission fluid, which is the oil these manual transmissions have from the factory (T56 and TR-6060). Transmax Z was what we recommended until they changed the "dye", from green to a gold colour. They claim nothing else has changed, however we have noticed a shift quality difference. If this was my car, I would change the oil with fresh DexIII. 4L will do the trick. Change the oil every 10,000k's and you will be fine.
  21. OED666 replied to tufgia's topic in Driveline Workshop
    CAN OF WORMS!!! There is over 200 different T56 transmissions... I assume tufgia is wanting to fit this to his XF??? You could use a VZ 6L box, as they have the same length input shaft. You will need to run a smaller internal diameter spigot bearing, fab up a crossmember, and change the shifter. They an electronic speedo output, which you will need to convert form sine wave to hall effect. The LS1 T56 and XR6T shifter position is pretty much identical. I have an XR6T T56 in my VE SS-V work ute. 11ty billion times better than the original box that was in the car!
  22. Is your clutch fluid level going down? If so, than slave cylinder it is.
  23. If the rubber couplings are getting destroyed, there is an alignment issue. They are designed to run dead true, as they not designed to have working angle. CV's need to run in the middle of their plunge, otherwise they will fail as well. This can generally be adjusted by elongating the holes in the centre bearing bracket. You will need to work out the length of the shaft with the CV compressed, and fully extended, then set it up so that it runs in the middle. Axle tramp also breaks tailshafts, centre bearings and uni joints. It must be eliminated with good springs and shocks. Would never recommend replacing a two piece shaft with a single piece. 2 shorter pieces of tube are MUCH stronger than 1 long piece of tube!
  24. The T5 has a 28 spline yoke, and the T56 has a 31 spline yoke. The flywheels and clutches are inter-changeable.
  25. For the FG Turbo's we use a V8 pressure plate, so it will have a heavier pedal than a BA/BF Option 3 Plus. The slave cylinder also has a billet piston, to handle the higher clamp of the pressure plate. The below link shows the slave cylinders, and the difference.. http://www.malwoodauto.com.au/index.php?page=hydraulic_slave_cylinders

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