OED666

I don't recall typing anything along those lines... For the benefit of everyone reading, we actually sent it to NPC to get a clamp test, and they were the ones who said the front plate had grease on it. As I said, I didn't get a chance to look at it. I believe PitLane installed initially, and it has since been removed and reinstalled for a 2nd time. I do not believe PitLane installed it the 2nd time. What's your theory? I'm keen to know, that's why we have a forum to discuss... :D

Luke, I personally didn't get a good look at your clutch, but apparently the flywheel side disc had some grease on it. :S The clutch is on its way back to you, now with cerametallic discs...

Not wanting to be smug, but I take some pleasure in reading this again. Either the original bearing was not replaced, or replaced with a factory item as opposed to the one supplied. I'm not saying this is the whole reason for the issue, but it's a major contributing factor. It's the sole reason why instructions are provided, but why do so many mechanics think they do not need them?

The spigot bearing was not replaced!!! I can see the grease on the inside of the wheel. The baseplate is not straight, same with the flywheel. It's been very hot for this to happen. Did the clutch shudder? Also, why was the ring gear welded? They just need heating up and fitting on the wheel.

The spigot bearing part number is 63003-2RS.

They don't suit, as they do not suit the carrier.

Of the car has any sign of axle tramp it will just happen again!

I don't mind this game too!! I like how when you launch you need to correct the steering!

Does the car suffer from axle tramp?? If so, you need a tramp rod kit!

This transmission should be quiet, as the transmission has been blueprinted.

Physically they fit, just the shifter needs to be changed to suit.

We don't have issues with the slave cylinders. Sounds like a setup issue to me. If they drained the gearbox oil, they may not have put enough in. We recommend 4L of Dex3. BTW, you should never put grease on the input shaft or on the bearing of your slave cylinder. All this will do is contaminate the clutch.

The push rod on BA-FG's is not adjustable. If the clutch is worn, a high pedal can be a sign that it is on its way out.

Closed the bonnet...

All the factory turbo's with the T56 have 3.73's... I just remembered that Greg has a TR-6060 and they do have different ratios to BA/BF T56's. In the long run, 3.73's would be a good choice. Make sure you don't use 5th unless you are doing 80km/h at a minimum on a flat road, and 6th only at 100+. If the car is labouring, go back a gear. All going well, we do this conversion at work in about 5 hours.

Seems very strange that you are doing 1500rpm at 100km/h. Does your car have 3.46's now?

The slaves will not make any difference to the pedal height. We have an offset pedal adjuster for $22, but the pedal needs to be removed from the car, the old master pivot removed and the new one fitted.

Adjusting the CSC crush will not alter the pedal height. If you have 14mm of crush, and change it to 17mm, the pedal will be at the same height

It was a pleasure helping! Glad that it is all back in and running again. You will get used to the pedal feel in no time. Just let me know when, where and some dimensions of the carton and I'll arrange the pick up.

You are exactly right about we can not be at fault if the engine leaks oil onto the clutch. This is the only downside to forums at times, if people who don't quite know what they are looking at, go off half cocked about a product failing. By no means is this directed to Trent! Yes, the rear main is behind the flywheel, but when the flywheel is spinning at 2000rpm on the highway for example, surely this would generate turbulence in the bellhousing and cause the oil to be misty and there is no way of stopping it from going onto the clutch. The clutch should arrive on Monday with a bit of luck! Definitely let the clutch bed in, and you should be right then! :D We would be keen to see how it goes!

The ACE Option 3 will be nice to drive, and hold the power. Think of your future plans for the car, and what you intend on doing with it before you make your decision. A poor man pays twice!!

I'll get back to you tomorrow with the price to give these clutches a birthday! There is some contamination coming from somewhere. Another piece of the puzzle is if there is excess brake fluid in the bellhousing when it has been bled, this can vapourise when the flywheel is spinning in the bellhousing and also go on the plate. It looks as though it has been driven very hard, and slipped. The grease on the wheel hasn't helped the situation at all! Just polished up my l33t photoshop skillz... On some real old flywheels (old V8s) they have a relief for any grease/oil that can come from the spigot bearing or rear main if it makes its way onto the flywheel. We would always recommend when removing the bellhousing to inspect and clean all associated parts. Attached is a photo of the flywheel fitted to my car, after it had done 60,000k's. I can assure you it had not been wiped with any cleaner! The flywheel I have fitted to my ED is a BA Mk1 XR6T wheel.

Here are the photos of Trent's clutch... As you can see on the flywheel near the ring gear there is a build up of grease/oil on the outside, and the contamination had made its way through the clutch plate. Pictures speak a thousand words!

I wasn't at work today, however Mal is going to send me the photos of the clutch. Apparently it was pretty bad! :S

When I tracked it yesterday it was due to arrive today! It better bloody arrive tomorrow!