HI PSI

Took too long finding a pic that would explain my comment about chassis panels... Here's what I was referring to..

I have a few things on the go at the moment,All at various stages of completion. I'm currently working on a making DJR 320 splitter. It's going to be modified to something similar to what you see on a Audi RS. The bottom vent section will be use to feed ducted air to the front brake rotors. I have also have competed 75% of the mould for the seat backs (Front seats) and I am starting to make infill sections for the chassis, to make the floor flat. Sorry for the late reply. Just finished a rotation of night shift. I milled and modified the standard brackets. We had to mount the caliper 10 mm inboard and extend the caliper height by 5mm, due to the rotor configuration. Essentially, we made new boss's and welded them to the bracket. 😄

The length of the shank was the problem. Not the bolt length.

Spot on there Keith. Give the hours that I work and the fatigue levels. All I want to do when I get home is sleep and chill out. Everything is progressing, I just need to stay focused and motivated. Should be hitting the dyno again soon. Well when my time lines up with my tuner and with dyno availability. That should give me some mojo..

In all honesty, my problems are not isolated. It's not strictly a power related problem either. These engines have harmonics issues at high rpm. This results in bolts coming loose and failing. We think that the bolts are too tensile and inflexible, which makes them brittle when side loaded. Another issue is the length of the shank on the ARP Pro bolts. When we installed the bolts into the crank (with no flywheel), we noticed that the bolt only had 0.030" of actual clamp, even when thread bound. So we think that they were not actually reaching the correct clamp pressure. Not good.... So, we decided to dowel the crank. This unloads all potential side loading off the bolts and installed a locking shim to retain all of the bolts. We toyed with the idea of lock wiring and welding (Tig) the bolts to the flywheel, but each results in a degredation of some kind. Not exactly a desireable outcome, given that we're trying to achieve strength and reliability. My previous post probably a true representation, as my clutch change was a result of an upgrade, not the failure of the flywheel bolts. For this, I apologise. I'm well known for finishing the car and then pulling it apart again and upgrading.. Lol. The point that I was making is that it wasn't a clutch or flywheel problem. As it occured with each clutch system. For me, it's a no brainer. Dowel the crank. It's cheap enough and worth doing if your already pulling out the box/flex plate Ozywalker was nice enough to lend me his Atomic dowel jig. I paid for its freight and gave him some coin for a carton of nice beer. Thanks again Ozy. It may be beneficial to contact him and rent it also. Anyway, I hope that this helps you with your decision. Brad

Run a 4 port solenoid, the you can control both the bottom and top part of the wastegate. Makes for much better control. You can use the Mac valve to hold the gate shut when required....... BTW, I have heard of a lot of issues with 50 mm gates not flowing enough. Hence why most using larger turbo's use 60 mm gates..

#2step, #Boostbygear, #Haltechstandalone, #Straingauge, #Launchcontrol, #%SpecifiedMaxwheelslip, #Timersareforpussiesthatdon'thave standalonesytems#DoIneedtosaymore.....

Two different clutch packages in 300 km, and two sets of broken ARP 2000 bolts.. Doweled and locked the bolts this time, using standard Ford bolts and a locking shim. Should be no problem this time (Manual FTW). Brad

Given the millions spent of the development and research into the XR6T. I think that they have specified the correct ratios. I love being able to go from 2nd to 6th when pulling away from the lights in a 60 km/h zone. I Couldn't imagine being at 1,700 rpm at 100 km/h with a a manual. the drone and harmonics throughout the car would be unbearable... Each to their own, I suppose.... It is your car after all.......

I have a few new carbon pieces in development - Seat backs, carbon subwoofer enclosure and an OTR cold air intake. When free time permits. I will post some pics as they are fabricated.... Also considering some carbon door cards to suit my SQ sound system.... But need more time off work....... If only...

Hell no!! Power skids for DAYS!!!!!! 3.73 or nothing. FTW

You can read my thread - https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/89792-my-build/ Running a 4202 also. Only running 670 rwhp on 19 psi (98 ron), with more boost, timing and E85 to come... The thread will give you some ideas on problem areas and component specifications required for the mid frame turbo's. Brad

For peace of mind and knowing that it will take pretty much anything that you can throw at it.... Yes, it is...

Thank you for the kind words. I didn't think that anyone read or takes notice of my thread anymore. It's taken a it longer than I anticipayed, as I lost interest for quite some time and tge build ceased. I also have a tendency to finish and then upgrade or modify. It's pretty much where I want it to be now, all be it with some pending cosmetic and tuning changes. Updates coming soon.

Alternators and air con compressors don't like 7500 rpm. Hence why I instslled an under drive balancer.

Bigger the exhaust the better. Unlike n/a engines, after exhausts turbo do not require back pressure. The back pressure is between the exhaust wheel and the exhaust valve... There are big gains to be had here....

He's had the car for some time and I guess that it's time to move on. He also has a few Hardtops so it's not like he doesn't have a ride anymore. Lucky bugger....

Spoke to Daryn the other day. He said that the car will soon be up for sale. It is still one of, if not the most advanced Barra's in the land. Here's a screen pic of its last tune... And it's still got more in it....

Me too. I'm worried that I'll wear the thread out in the block if I keep this up.... It will be fun to drive it for a change.

Pulled the box out today. We found this... Four of the remaining five bolts were loose. Luckily we had very little metal transfer from the crank to the flywheel. We filed the crank surface and machined the mounting face on the flywheel, just to ensure a flat clean surface. We did notice that there is only around 1.5 mm of tread left for flywheel clamp and we are a little concerned by this. We pondered the cause of the bolt failures and we surmise that the failures are as a result of the bolts high tensile grade having a negative impact on the shear strength of the bolts. We have doweled the crank and flywheel and are now considering a lower grade bolt. We are also considering drilling the crank for finer thread 7/16 bolts ... In closing, I'd just like to say thanks to Ozzy for his act of kindness, in loan of his dowel jig. You are awesome !! Some beers are coming your way...

To be completely honest, I have seen one failure. Steve Capuzzo's 1200hp Falcon took all of the teeth off 5th gear when he was in the powerskid comp at Powercruise a few years ago... But you can hardly blame the box in this instance..

Same magnum as mine. Hasn't changed since Spiro had it..

Manual is WAY more fun and can handle everything that we can throw at it. The last time that I spoke to Daryn's (Formerly Spiro's car), he had 1524 rwhp with still more left it it. His magnum has survived so far.... So no problems with box failures.

I had the car on the hub dyno a fortnight ago. We managed 670 rwhp on 18 psi (98 Ron), with no real timing added. We had to pull up there as the dyno was having issues. We were doing full power runs and the eddy brake would intermittently come on hard, sometimes stopping the engine dead. Even made the turbo spool backwards.... I have to say that this speaks volumes for the quality of Mal Woods tailshaft and The Driveline Shop Cv's... I took the car for a drive out to the worksop today and gave it a few squirts on the way. It now looks like I have again snapped some ARP flywheel bolts, as the clutch loss has the same characteristics as last time. Resevior is full of fluid, just won't engage the CSC properly.. So, It looks like I will remove the box, AGAIN!!! And we'll look at dowling the crank this time round..

Shifter is now working fine. I ended up removing the box and sending it to him. He said that the gate in then Magnum was a bit different and required the cams in the shifter to be modified. The shifter that I have now has a shorter handle that the previous one. I actually like it better, as the strain gauge made the knob a bit high for my liking.