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HI PSI

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Everything posted by HI PSI

  1. I still have a GAIT manual around somewhere. I used to do a bit of car audio myself, back in the day.... I'll be very interested to see how you go about it. I currently run an Alpine DVA-9965E through the factory colour screen. I was thinking of running a touch screen with a Raspberry Pi, but may be persuaded if you are successful. Keep us posted on developments... Some of my work, from many, many moons ago...
  2. HI PSI

    My Build

    Got home on Sunday and planned to do some work on the car. I have to sort a better way to get to the plugs as the current configuration, while looking pretty cool, is a major headache to check/change plugs. I'm investigating a few options and plan on running a Supra style lead cap, so that I can access the plugs without having to remove the rocker cover garnish. I'v utilising the existing plug tube configuration that I have in conjunction with these plug tube tops. Unfortunately the Nizpro garnish has around 10 mm of material thickness in the spark plug area that has to be removed. But I guess that having to repaint the garnish is a small price to pay for ease of servicing/access.Each individual lead will likely be run between each runner of the plenum to a bank of coils below. I'll post some pics when they are available. Supra leads...
  3. Purchased one of these today..... Went the 2.0L Bit turbo option...
  4. I used a Motec motorsport connector on my wiring harness. This allows me do disconnect all wiring from the engine to body. Thereby reducing time, pain and suffering trying to disconnect/connect everything during an engine change. This might help you also...
  5. Trav has had it parked for over 3 years. All it really needs ins a new turbo core. I've been teasing him and told him that he should just sell it to me....
  6. 800-1200 hp is quite a broad range. What use is the vehicle intended for, as this will likely dictate what turbo you should utilise. Auto or a Manual transmission??
  7. Car sold within a matter of hours. Bloke arrived with 60k cash. The car now has a new home, and I hope that the new owner enjoys it as much as Daryn did.
  8. I spoke to Daryn a few weeks ago about his car. He stated at the time that he was considering selling it. I just viewed an advertisement on the "Race car 4 sale Australia" for $60k. A great buy for some lucky bugger. Here is a link to the group https://www.facebook.com/groups/328255533938302/
  9. Yeah, a new BF FPV cover is around $2,600 trade price. And every piece associated with completing the bar (except bezels) is over $600 a pop. I have 3 new bars hanging from the roof of my shed. As these things will be rare as all buggery when they become obsolete. Which I believe to be VERY soon. We'll see a lot of written of FPV's once this happens...
  10. HI PSI

    My Build

    I'll just leave this here.. We started tuning again this morning. However, I had to leave for work at 10 am. I left the car with my tuner and hit the road. I got a call at around 11.30 informing me that he had reverted back to the BA/BF cam tables, as he was having issues when performing power runs. The power curves were very rough/erratic on the top end and going back to the BA/BF tables smoohed the curve almost instantly. We also saw more power (Recovered) by increasing cylinder pressure. With this, I assume that the camshaft separation was the cause of this issue. He went on to say that the car was breaking down when pushed over 30 psi. We put this down to the spark plug gap being a little to wide, as I had left them at 0.8mm. I had done this thinking that the CDI voltage would allow me to run a much larger gap and thereby get a better burn. Learnt my lesson there.. Anyway, my tuner also works away form home and had to leave at mid day. So we've left it as it is until he returns in a weeks time.. I'll keep you all posted on further work/tuning.
  11. HI PSI

    My Build

    Got some time on the dyno yesterday. Had a few minor issues that held us up a bit, but managed to get most of the 98 ron tune sorted. We pulled up tuning early last night, as we ran out of time and fuel. We managed 733 rwhp (546 kw) @ 24 psi, on 98 ron fuel. We still have more left in it as it was still loving having timing added. It just wants to keep going, with no signs of falling off, even at the 7,800 rpm limiter. Given what we have learnt so far, especially in relation to cam timing, I cannot begin to understand how some of the cars out there are making the power that they are. we used a FG cam map as a baseline, as we were led to believe that they are the best. However, we found that the factory cams tables, effectively choke the crap out of the engine. We've only just started playing in this area and realised an additional 70 hp. We only have a few hours on the dyno today, as both the tuner and I have to leave fore work. So, we're going to put some E85 in it and see what it makes. Fingers crossed for no oil on the floor.... I do have some dyno graph pics and I shall endeavour to get some uploaded tonight.
  12. My spare engine has both dipstick holes. The FG location has a bung in it..
  13. What the other guys said. Call Matt from Race Brakes Sydney. He's an awesome guy, with great knowledge of the Falcons... I actually remember reading that he has a ripper special on at the moment for 6 pot Brembo's. 😄
  14. I'm a little confused. A dose pipe is a pipe that vents wastegate pressure. How are you planning on doing that with a standard turbo and housing assembly. Btw, you might want to upgrade your cooler and piping before doing anything else.. Those standard hoses are poo... That will help your cause, by making more room..
  15. HI PSI

    My Build

    Got a bit done on the seat back mould. Bloody pain in the arse that the plastics are distorted with highs and lows all over the place. Should have a trial piece completed soon...
  16. I might consider selling my spare engine, if you're interested. FG Series 1 block - Has both BA/F and FG dipstick holes. Sonic tested block, Nitride and stress relieved crank, ACL Race series big end and main bearings (360 degree thrust), Atomic 998 rods, 0.020" Oversize JE ceramic coated pistons (Crown and skirts), Thicker Gudgeon pins, Main studs, Atomic Girdle and windage tray, Machined for 14.3 mm Head studs. Decked block.
  17. HI PSI

    My Build

    Took too long finding a pic that would explain my comment about chassis panels... Here's what I was referring to..
  18. HI PSI

    My Build

    I have a few things on the go at the moment,All at various stages of completion. I'm currently working on a making DJR 320 splitter. It's going to be modified to something similar to what you see on a Audi RS. The bottom vent section will be use to feed ducted air to the front brake rotors. I have also have competed 75% of the mould for the seat backs (Front seats) and I am starting to make infill sections for the chassis, to make the floor flat. Sorry for the late reply. Just finished a rotation of night shift. I milled and modified the standard brackets. We had to mount the caliper 10 mm inboard and extend the caliper height by 5mm, due to the rotor configuration. Essentially, we made new boss's and welded them to the bracket. 😄
  19. The length of the shank was the problem. Not the bolt length.
  20. HI PSI

    My Build

    Spot on there Keith. Give the hours that I work and the fatigue levels. All I want to do when I get home is sleep and chill out. Everything is progressing, I just need to stay focused and motivated. Should be hitting the dyno again soon. Well when my time lines up with my tuner and with dyno availability. That should give me some mojo..
  21. In all honesty, my problems are not isolated. It's not strictly a power related problem either. These engines have harmonics issues at high rpm. This results in bolts coming loose and failing. We think that the bolts are too tensile and inflexible, which makes them brittle when side loaded. Another issue is the length of the shank on the ARP Pro bolts. When we installed the bolts into the crank (with no flywheel), we noticed that the bolt only had 0.030" of actual clamp, even when thread bound. So we think that they were not actually reaching the correct clamp pressure. Not good.... So, we decided to dowel the crank. This unloads all potential side loading off the bolts and installed a locking shim to retain all of the bolts. We toyed with the idea of lock wiring and welding (Tig) the bolts to the flywheel, but each results in a degredation of some kind. Not exactly a desireable outcome, given that we're trying to achieve strength and reliability. My previous post probably a true representation, as my clutch change was a result of an upgrade, not the failure of the flywheel bolts. For this, I apologise. I'm well known for finishing the car and then pulling it apart again and upgrading.. Lol. The point that I was making is that it wasn't a clutch or flywheel problem. As it occured with each clutch system. For me, it's a no brainer. Dowel the crank. It's cheap enough and worth doing if your already pulling out the box/flex plate Ozywalker was nice enough to lend me his Atomic dowel jig. I paid for its freight and gave him some coin for a carton of nice beer. Thanks again Ozy. It may be beneficial to contact him and rent it also. Anyway, I hope that this helps you with your decision. Brad
  22. Run a 4 port solenoid, the you can control both the bottom and top part of the wastegate. Makes for much better control. You can use the Mac valve to hold the gate shut when required....... BTW, I have heard of a lot of issues with 50 mm gates not flowing enough. Hence why most using larger turbo's use 60 mm gates..
  23. #2step, #Boostbygear, #Haltechstandalone, #Straingauge, #Launchcontrol, #%SpecifiedMaxwheelslip, #Timersareforpussiesthatdon'thave standalonesytems#DoIneedtosaymore.....
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