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ken666

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About ken666

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  1. Can anyone help me with the pro's and cons for loctiting the main studs in on my current build? I have upgraded the bottom end to 14mm, fitted a 13mm thick custom made girdle and hand finished all the stud holes into the block to exact depths required with a modified finishing tap so once I drop a 3/8" stainless ball bearing beneath each stud I have exactly 2mm clearance to the modified sump. However ARP recommend to only hand tighten the studs before torquing up the nut, unless the studs are going to be left in the block. Then in this case they can be locked in with Loctite.... My question is, how tight should they be torqued to, and what compound is going to be appropriate? I would expect that 243 should be sufficient, with torque around the best one can achieve with a normal length allen key?? Once the nut is torqued the stud should be quite firm in the block.. but I don't know!! Any ideas or experience with this fellas? Cheers Ken
  2. Yeah I ended up leaving them on, as the girdle is 13mm thick and I have fitted 14mm studs in the caps (which I overlooked getting drilled out to suit!) In the end I've decided to fit a modified sump to combat the clearance issues and even cut a piece of another windage tray to fit on the last 3 caps too. Thanks for clearing that up Puffwagon Cheers ken
  3. Here's a pic if anyone else is interested in the side mount that it could on as Puffwagon has removed in order to allow the windage tray to line up with the studs properly.
  4. Yeah I won't be assembling the engine without it that's for sure. When I used to build Cleveland V8's that was the first part that I would source for the build, especially when it was going to have big G's under acceleration! Nothing worse than starving an engine of oil even for a millisecond.
  5. Cheers for that, I expected that I wasn't the only person to feel the benefits of fitting it. I expect there is going to be slight modifications to install both, there appears to be a slight modification (either drill it out, or weld on a new larger diameter washer) to fit the oil pump pickup on the stud anyway.
  6. Hey guys I'm just about to screw the new motor together and I'm a little curious about how many builders are also fitting the factory windage tray on the mains when also fitting an aftermarket girdle? The girdle will obviously strengthen the bottom end to a much more rigid assembly, but I am more looking at the oil surge control advantages of also fitting it. Cheers Ken I will start to post some pics of the assembly in progress once I begin the build. (After I have all the job fully planned!)
  7. Well, I'm locked down with the current situation. I have a shed full of the best tools and still waiting on delivery of the engine and new turbo etc before I can screw it all together. It's not going to cost me anything, and if it doesn't make too much difference once done at least the Mrs won't be sick of me pacing around the house looking for someone to annoy!
  8. Yeah I tend to agree, peak numbers are just that. Through my experience with ford V8's By blueprinting and match porting/blending of airways I could get a e7te headed EF XR8 with ho manifold to whip the pants off the same model car equipped with GT 40p heads, a cam and gears to suit and lower geared manual transmission. On the dyno the other guy couldn't wait to give me a run (with his whopping 35hp difference!) But even with a passenger and full tank, I continually drove away from him every time... I noticed the huge difference on the dyno with my torque curve. So that is what I'm trying to find within the Barra turbo, cos we all know about the bolt on/tunable power they make. Any extra torque for nothing should never be turned down
  9. I'm just looking at the different options available and I have to think that the factory lower is going to cause some significant restrictions if not opened up at least in the lower part of the port where it has a bottle neck at the end of the machining. If not opened up, at least a blending will make big difference imo? I'm looking at all the small things now, as the rest of the engine is completely blueprinted etc. If it helps anywhere within the range then it's free power! Top end numbers are not my concern now, I can get bigger numbers with boost and timing
  10. Hey guys, I'm just going through the last few bits and pieces and giving them a good clean and inspection before screwing it all together next week. And I have noticed that the lower manifold is still configured with the broadband dual ports, while the upgrade upper plenum is opened up to huge single oval ports. Am I going to benefit from opening up and match porting the lower to suit? Seems like it could cause quit some restrictions on full boost to me? Cheers Ken
  11. Hey guys, I'm in the process of choosing a street use turbo for my new engine that's getting close to the final stages of assembly. I have already chosen a turbo for dyno and off street use, a Garrett GTX 4709R, but I understand that it's not going to be my best choice for daily use. I keep going back to the likes of 2 similar sized turbo's a Garrett GTW 3884r with a 67mm inducer, and a Aeroflow boosted 6762 for street use. Both are internally gated with a 42mm flapper and ceramic ball bearings. I plan on just swapping the tune, manifold and dump pipe when changing to the bigger/smaller Huffer as the 4709 is fitted to a 6boost and is externally gated. Has anyone had much to do with either 3884 and the 6762? I still plan on running 30psi+ with the smaller setup and don't want to prematurely wear it out! Any advice will be taken on board when making the decision. Cheers Ken
  12. Kev has built plenty of Barra turbo motors and reckons the combination I'm putting together should be comfortable making 1200hp at the wheels with the right turbo. I'm only planning to run it at 900-1000rwhp first up, but might get my hands on a bigger turbo and injectors down the track and see what it can produce. I can't use the power, once it gets to this level due to the tyre size and manual box fitted... But still! I'd love the numbers just for bragging rights 😂
  13. Yeah I've been getting Kevin @ Pryce racing engines to do my machining for close to 20 years. Since Teterins stopped dealing with the public, he has gotten all the best of equipment and has the experience to get the best from it
  14. Today I was given good news from two different sources! Firstly I am possibly allowed to return to work once I get my special skills exemption from the government. Which allows me to travel interstate without the need to self isolate for the standard 14 days. And the other, but even better news came from my machinist at Pryce racing engines. Letting me know that my custom order pistons from CP in the states have arrived. So now the crank is machined, the rods have been modified to suit the oversized chromoly wrist pins that were made up for the new pistons, the block had been line honed with the stud kit and girdle fitted, the head is almost completed with 3 angle valve job and mild flow work and blueprinting of all volumes etc. All that has to be done is to bore and deck the block and wrap it all up for me to bring home and begin assembly 😁😊😁 Yay Can't wait to start this part, will post some pics as I go.
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