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About ken666

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  1. That was the original plan! Probably the best one too.
  2. That's very interesting, thanks heaps for this. I will give it a go tomorrow, Im glad that's all it is I have a puller unit that is almost identical to the one in the link so it won't be difficult at all
  3. Hey guys Has anyone else experienced a slip yolk stuck in the back of a zf 6 speed auto? I broke the rear shaft where the spline goes into the cv joint on the rear a few days ago and attempted to remove it on the side of the road during the week, and after two separate attempts with bigger and better tools I still was unsuccessful in getting the yolk to pull out of the box. I ended up having it towed home and I put the rear of the car up on ramps and continued to remove the shaft from the yolk and the gearbox mount bracket etc to give me a clear view of the extension housing and yolk. I have attempted to pull it out by making a plate that bolts to the yolk and has a pull lug in the centre, then attached a 1.5 tonne chain block to the diff cradle and hooked up the chain and began to load up the chain. I then used a copper hammer to tap the yolk from the sides, back and even forward to give a sudden shock whilst weight was on the yolk. But never had any movement whatsoever, so I loaded the chain up until the chain block started to load up to its limits... Still no movement, and I'm now doing some last minute checks before beginning the assembly of the replacement shaft and bearing etc and bolting it all to the yolk that's stuck in there. I can't see it causing any problems, as the shaft needs minimal end float due to the driveline being fixed and fitted with IRS. I think there is enough end float in the shaft to CV on the diff end. Any ideas would be great, maybe it's happened to someone here cos my mechanic mate is stumped and has never experienced this in 25 years in the business. Cheers Ken
  4. I have a rip shift, it's really good and tight with nice gate definition. Just be careful not to set the overthrow stops correctly, especially for the shifts on the pull of the shifter (2nd, 4th and 6th gears) otherwise you will destroy the synchro rings and possibly the selector mechanism... I did in the original box, but was told about this before setting up the new box.
  5. I experimented with different types and compounds of pads a couple of years ago and I was extremely impressed with the final combination that was suggested to me by a suspension guru. I used the same rotors on front and rear as you have, but after trying several "top shelf" big name brands (and lots of dust and mess, along with chewing rotors out due to the soft compounds) I fitted QFM (Queensland friction materials brand) standard replacement pads in conjunction with good quality aftermarket braided lines all round and high performance brake fluid (still with the ventilated discs) I could stand on the brakes from ridiculous speeds, and not experience brake fade due to overheating. I forgot about how much that improved the stopping power of my XR8 until I read your post, and I swore that I would tell as many people who would benefit from such small changes with the right parts. Enjoy
  6. Hey guys I'm chasing a cover that's not broken! Don't need to upgrade, I'm only fitting it into my FG xr6 n/a. I've got stuffed bushes and noise in the original cradle and diff, and have a complete rebuilt ba xr8 assy sitting in my way in the shed. I got lots of 2005 xr8 spares if you are looking for anything in particular. Cheers Ken
  7. Can anyone help me with the pro's and cons for loctiting the main studs in on my current build? I have upgraded the bottom end to 14mm, fitted a 13mm thick custom made girdle and hand finished all the stud holes into the block to exact depths required with a modified finishing tap so once I drop a 3/8" stainless ball bearing beneath each stud I have exactly 2mm clearance to the modified sump. However ARP recommend to only hand tighten the studs before torquing up the nut, unless the studs are going to be left in the block. Then in this case they can be locked in with Loctite.... My question is, how tight should they be torqued to, and what compound is going to be appropriate? I would expect that 243 should be sufficient, with torque around the best one can achieve with a normal length allen key?? Once the nut is torqued the stud should be quite firm in the block.. but I don't know!! Any ideas or experience with this fellas? Cheers Ken
  8. Yeah I ended up leaving them on, as the girdle is 13mm thick and I have fitted 14mm studs in the caps (which I overlooked getting drilled out to suit!) In the end I've decided to fit a modified sump to combat the clearance issues and even cut a piece of another windage tray to fit on the last 3 caps too. Thanks for clearing that up Puffwagon Cheers ken
  9. Here's a pic if anyone else is interested in the side mount that it could on as Puffwagon has removed in order to allow the windage tray to line up with the studs properly.
  10. Yeah I won't be assembling the engine without it that's for sure. When I used to build Cleveland V8's that was the first part that I would source for the build, especially when it was going to have big G's under acceleration! Nothing worse than starving an engine of oil even for a millisecond.
  11. Cheers for that, I expected that I wasn't the only person to feel the benefits of fitting it. I expect there is going to be slight modifications to install both, there appears to be a slight modification (either drill it out, or weld on a new larger diameter washer) to fit the oil pump pickup on the stud anyway.
  12. Hey guys I'm just about to screw the new motor together and I'm a little curious about how many builders are also fitting the factory windage tray on the mains when also fitting an aftermarket girdle? The girdle will obviously strengthen the bottom end to a much more rigid assembly, but I am more looking at the oil surge control advantages of also fitting it. Cheers Ken I will start to post some pics of the assembly in progress once I begin the build. (After I have all the job fully planned!)
  13. Well, I'm locked down with the current situation. I have a shed full of the best tools and still waiting on delivery of the engine and new turbo etc before I can screw it all together. It's not going to cost me anything, and if it doesn't make too much difference once done at least the Mrs won't be sick of me pacing around the house looking for someone to annoy!
  14. Yeah I tend to agree, peak numbers are just that. Through my experience with ford V8's By blueprinting and match porting/blending of airways I could get a e7te headed EF XR8 with ho manifold to whip the pants off the same model car equipped with GT 40p heads, a cam and gears to suit and lower geared manual transmission. On the dyno the other guy couldn't wait to give me a run (with his whopping 35hp difference!) But even with a passenger and full tank, I continually drove away from him every time... I noticed the huge difference on the dyno with my torque curve. So that is what I'm trying to find within the Barra turbo, cos we all know about the bolt on/tunable power they make. Any extra torque for nothing should never be turned down
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