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About ken666

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  1. So far, it's taken a lot more than the twin ceramic unit I destroyed last month!
  2. Not much left to go pop on my girl now.. I have had to replace everything in the driveline a couple of times, but upgraded everything with custom built stuff last time around!
  3. Don't do it!!!! It's extremely addictive And very expensive
  4. Hehehe..... me! Running 612hp @ the treads, with 4.1 diff gears and small 245/35/20's and I abuse the sh*t out of it, often dumping the clutch @ 5000rpm+ in all gears (including 6th!) It's a new addition only 2000km ago because I broke the pressure plate on the twin ceramic Xtreme that it was previously running (actually broke the pressed steel across the feet where it bolts to the flywheel!) The new setup is a Mantic twin plate organic track kit, I'm very impressed with the feel and the consistency of its launches off the line... Worth looking into, I know there are lots of really full on race type kits out there but I found they sacrifice feel and longevity. Where organic kits of this calibre almost feel like a factory unit, except for the slightly heavier pedal. (only 30% increase in clamping force, but good for 1250nm of torque)
  5. Hey guys, I'm just about to buy the parts to build my new turbo. As I'm getting close to fitting all the new upgrades before it goes in for a couple of fresh tunes on the dyno. I am building up a new turbo to 3584 specs, but have a few queeries about what billet wheel to fit? The options I have readily available to me are a GTX3584 11 blade billet wheel, and a billet a 7+7 blade . Both have slim noses & extended tips. But I would like to know the pro's and cons for them before making a decision. I will be using an A/R .70 housing with 4'' anti-surge, the exhaust is 4" from the turbo into twin 4" high flow cats, then 4" through to a twin 3 1/2" outlets from rear muffler (so back pressure shouldn't be an issue) It has a big nizpro intercooler and inlet manifold and hot side air filter and pipe work. It will be tuned to around 21psi boost, I have lowered my diff ratio to 4.1:1 and fitted a 3.35:1 first gear in my 6 speed manual to assist with the extra lag I'm expecting with the bigger huffer. Has anyone experimented between the two wheels, and what were the differences in the behaviour of them? Cheers Ken
  6. Yes they are both manual boxes, but both the 6 speed tremec as they are from mk11 2005 models Cheers, I will give Mal Wood a buzz.
  7. Hey guys I have just got home from working away for the weekend, and have had some gearbox issues in my BA XR6t. I'm pretty sure it's going to need a full rebuild due to the noise and feel of it. Wouldn't shift back from 3rd to 2nd initially, but then it started to make a very similar noise as a really facked thrust race... but I know its not, as the clutch kit is only 500km old. So I am suspecting it's an input shaft bearing or layshaft rollers? I have a BA XR8 6 speed with very low km sitting in my garage, and am aware of the different input shaft they use. But am curious if that is the only difference between the two boxes? (length, ratios, bolt patterns etc?) I need a quick turnaround getting my car back on the road, and was hoping to fit a new bearing on the turbo input shaft then fit it to the XR8 box and use it while the turbo box gets overhauled. Any help would be appreciated, cheers Ken
  8. Those numbers, are almost identical to my BA XR6t when running the 15psi tune... But it's not too surprising, as my car is also fitted out with a Nizpro cobra stage 3 package. And a few other little extra's fitted here and there. However, things become a lot more intense when the boost is turned up to 21psi and a 50/50 mix of 98 and E85. Turning out numbers of 612hp at the treads (almost 500rwkw in modern day talk!) It's interesting to see how consistent the numbers are, despite the varying boost levels. Just goes to show, there are many mods that can significantly improve the efficiency of this old tractor motor! It's a shame that Ford never discovered it's potential until the end of its production
  9. I'm in the process of building a new turbo for a friend to replace his worn out factory unit, but when we removed the worn out turbo to use the original turbine housing to use on the new setup we put together. I noticed that most of the bolt holes (dump pipe side) are almost stripped out. The new parts are a billet AR .70 compressor housing, with anti-surge 4" inlet, a new Garret GT3582 dual ball bearing cartridge with a billet wheel fitted. But now we will have to replace the rear turbine housing due to the problems with the threads being so worn, unless drilling and fitting helicoils is a viable option? If not, a new housing will be sourced. I have read a few articles about changing the AR size to a smaller volume to help the turbo spool quicker, but I don't have much experience with turbos. I would assume that by doing this, it would restrict flow at higher RPM (and possibly create more heatsoak through the turbo?) Has anyone experimented with fitting smaller AR.63 or AR.82 housings. Obviously the wastegate will still be ported to 38mm on the housing to be fitted. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Cheers ken
  10. Hahaha, wish I got 9 years..... Burnt out a twin ceramic in less than 6 months.... Be grateful!
  11. very nice, (not the bike, well its ok I suppose!) I love the EF-L series, I had an EL XR8. This was before the mobile phones with good cameras, otherwise I'm sure I would have millions of pics. You have done a pretty cool job with her, top stuff
  12. Broke, maybe.... Happy, definently! Here's a few of the money pits I have built up over the years, still got a couple of them locked away from the elements.....and BAD people! Might even make a substantial profit in a few years time if the value and rarity continues to follow its current path. And yes they are all original genuine matching number vehicles😊
  13. Damn tree jumped out in front of me..... Gotta watch out for them😬
  14. I fitted a new Mantic Track multiplate organic clutch kit. Pretty happy with it too!
  15. Probably are.... But a little expensive compared to some other equally good aftermarket options... QFM make a race pad and slotted disk option, that I have found to be almost equivalent to the bigger setups. Even after a good hard thrashing they don't seem to fade if used in conjunction with braided lines all round. And around a 1/4 of the price to fit on all corners. Just some food for thought😎

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