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Everything posted by ken666

  1. Can anyone help me with the pro's and cons for loctiting the main studs in on my current build? I have upgraded the bottom end to 14mm, fitted a 13mm thick custom made girdle and hand finished all the stud holes into the block to exact depths required with a modified finishing tap so once I drop a 3/8" stainless ball bearing beneath each stud I have exactly 2mm clearance to the modified sump. However ARP recommend to only hand tighten the studs before torquing up the nut, unless the studs are going to be left in the block. Then in this case they can be locked in with Loct
  2. Yeah I ended up leaving them on, as the girdle is 13mm thick and I have fitted 14mm studs in the caps (which I overlooked getting drilled out to suit!) In the end I've decided to fit a modified sump to combat the clearance issues and even cut a piece of another windage tray to fit on the last 3 caps too. Thanks for clearing that up Puffwagon Cheers ken
  3. Here's a pic if anyone else is interested in the side mount that it could on as Puffwagon has removed in order to allow the windage tray to line up with the studs properly.
  4. From the album: ken666

    Match ported and blended runners should help with flow a little more down in the lower RPM's, also flashed up with a squirt of 2 pack
  5. ken666

    Garrett GTW 3884rs

    From the album: ken666

    Custom built Garrett GTW 3884rs with dual ceramic ball bearings and 68mm wheel upgrade and 45mm internal wastegate. Should be good for 800rwhp at 30psi
  6. ken666

    Turbo upgrade

    From the album: ken666

    A custom built Garrett 3884 with a compressor wheel upgrade to the 68mm 10 blade gen 3 unit and a 45mm internal wastegate. This is the street use turbo, a much bigger unit will be fitted to a 6boost manifold with 50mm external gate for serious dyno days and the strip.
  7. From the album: ken666

    I have been adding to the parts pile for a few months now, the Mrs wanted it out of the house.... So it's time to build it!
  8. ken666

    Barra block

    From the album: ken666

    Fully machined, deburred and blueprinted 2007 BF mkll block from a N/A Fairmont with only 40,000 km on it. .010" oversized bore, decked and squared by rehoning the crank tunnel to factory specifications. Block has been sonic tested and proven to have .150" minimum wall thickness on all cylinders.
  9. From the album: ken666

    The bottom end upgrades, including stud kit 13mm girdle, and race series bearings.
  10. From the album: ken666

    Set of balanced and X-rayed spool drag pro rods fitted with a set of custom order CP pistons and heavy duty wrist pins.
  11. Yeah I won't be assembling the engine without it that's for sure. When I used to build Cleveland V8's that was the first part that I would source for the build, especially when it was going to have big G's under acceleration! Nothing worse than starving an engine of oil even for a millisecond.
  12. Cheers for that, I expected that I wasn't the only person to feel the benefits of fitting it. I expect there is going to be slight modifications to install both, there appears to be a slight modification (either drill it out, or weld on a new larger diameter washer) to fit the oil pump pickup on the stud anyway.
  13. Hey guys I'm just about to screw the new motor together and I'm a little curious about how many builders are also fitting the factory windage tray on the mains when also fitting an aftermarket girdle? The girdle will obviously strengthen the bottom end to a much more rigid assembly, but I am more looking at the oil surge control advantages of also fitting it. Cheers Ken I will start to post some pics of the assembly in progress once I begin the build. (After I have all the job fully planned!)
  14. Well, I'm locked down with the current situation. I have a shed full of the best tools and still waiting on delivery of the engine and new turbo etc before I can screw it all together. It's not going to cost me anything, and if it doesn't make too much difference once done at least the Mrs won't be sick of me pacing around the house looking for someone to annoy!
  15. Yeah I tend to agree, peak numbers are just that. Through my experience with ford V8's By blueprinting and match porting/blending of airways I could get a e7te headed EF XR8 with ho manifold to whip the pants off the same model car equipped with GT 40p heads, a cam and gears to suit and lower geared manual transmission. On the dyno the other guy couldn't wait to give me a run (with his whopping 35hp difference!) But even with a passenger and full tank, I continually drove away from him every time... I noticed the huge difference on the dyno with my torque curve. S
  16. I'm just looking at the different options available and I have to think that the factory lower is going to cause some significant restrictions if not opened up at least in the lower part of the port where it has a bottle neck at the end of the machining. If not opened up, at least a blending will make big difference imo? I'm looking at all the small things now, as the rest of the engine is completely blueprinted etc. If it helps anywhere within the range then it's free power! Top end numbers are not my concern now, I can get bigger numbers with boost and timing
  17. Hey guys, I'm just going through the last few bits and pieces and giving them a good clean and inspection before screwing it all together next week. And I have noticed that the lower manifold is still configured with the broadband dual ports, while the upgrade upper plenum is opened up to huge single oval ports. Am I going to benefit from opening up and match porting the lower to suit? Seems like it could cause quit some restrictions on full boost to me? Cheers Ken
  18. Hey guys, I'm in the process of choosing a street use turbo for my new engine that's getting close to the final stages of assembly. I have already chosen a turbo for dyno and off street use, a Garrett GTX 4709R, but I understand that it's not going to be my best choice for daily use. I keep going back to the likes of 2 similar sized turbo's a Garrett GTW 3884r with a 67mm inducer, and a Aeroflow boosted 6762 for street use. Both are internally gated with a 42mm flapper and ceramic ball bearings. I plan on just swapping the tune, manifold and dump pipe when changing t
  19. Kev has built plenty of Barra turbo motors and reckons the combination I'm putting together should be comfortable making 1200hp at the wheels with the right turbo. I'm only planning to run it at 900-1000rwhp first up, but might get my hands on a bigger turbo and injectors down the track and see what it can produce. I can't use the power, once it gets to this level due to the tyre size and manual box fitted... But still! I'd love the numbers just for bragging rights 😂
  20. Yeah I've been getting Kevin @ Pryce racing engines to do my machining for close to 20 years. Since Teterins stopped dealing with the public, he has gotten all the best of equipment and has the experience to get the best from it
  21. Today I was given good news from two different sources! Firstly I am possibly allowed to return to work once I get my special skills exemption from the government. Which allows me to travel interstate without the need to self isolate for the standard 14 days. And the other, but even better news came from my machinist at Pryce racing engines. Letting me know that my custom order pistons from CP in the states have arrived. So now the crank is machined, the rods have been modified to suit the oversized chromoly wrist pins that were made up for the new pistons, the
  22. Hey guys, I don't have the time to look too much through the post. So I'll just pretend that I didn't know that someone has probably already answered my question!! I'm due to replace the rear tyres on my FG, and I have a pair of new 275/35/20" Kumhos just sitting there in my shed (didn't fit under the guards on my BA!!) Will they fit under the guards on my FG? I'm running 8.5" wide with +35 offset.. I've done some quick measurements, and I don't think they will. However I read that many people are running them?? Cheers Ken
  23. I have no serious intentions for the car once its finished. I would like to be able to enjoy it on the weekends and on club days at the track occasionally (circuit and strip). I will be fitting a Magnum 6 speed manual once my current T56 becomes tired or very broken! The car is only running 245/30/20's on the street, so I'm a little more optimistic that the box won't explode under pressure too easily, if its given a little bit of respect until I build up the savings again to get the new magnum box. I have already dropped the diff ratio to 4.1:1 when I fitted the custom built rea
  24. Hope you don't just plan on turning up the boost and using bolt ons! I am coming close to the completion of my build, that coincidentally is targeting 1000hp (at the treads). And I have not fitted anything less than what has been considered to be rated less than 1200-1500hp safety rated! So far its nearly cost me my sanity, my marriage, my next 10 Xmases and birthdays worth of gifts and a lot of extremely hardcore research into over rating everything as a safety margin! Not to forget the driveline, the clutch, gearbox, tailshaft, diff and axles need to be extensively upgrad
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