Draino

Your rubber will fit rather snugly. I run 255/60-18s on my factory 18" turbo rims with some 35mm spacers, and there is still 3/4" clearance from the top pf the tire to that nut that connects the UCA to the axle stub/hub thingy.

No, unfortunately I didn't. But now that Im about to do the front diff bushes I might be able to get a decent picture. Also fitting one one of the HDI intercooler kits that came out at the start of the year.

👍 Also, just remember Im only changing out the steel oil pan part of the sump assembly which is less than half the block length, not the full length alloy sump.

Okay, thankyou Ford workshop manual. I think I was on the right path anyway. I've removed all the sump pan bolts, and just need a bit more wriggle room to get the pan off. The manual says to undo and remove the front diff bolts x3 and then it will create enough wriggle room to slide the rack or "steering gear" out the drivers side with the ball joint knuckles cracked. Steering column and pencil shafts have to be undone and removed also. But gee that really beats the effort required to drop the whole x-member. A small win. Sweet! New front springs and shocks, control blades, rear springs and shocks, perches, uca's, lca's, I'm looking forward to solid drives on long gravel roads. Also got my 850 injectors and a flash tuner to get things rolling!

I this big old diff in the road! Ive got it all unplugged and can move it around, but theres these big bosses blocking it from being slid out of the passenger side wheel arch. Im thinking the whole subframe has to come down, but to do that it looks like I need to get the damn manifolds off??? Must be a better way.

Damn. Literally just nicked the head of the bolts shoulder and ripped it out like it was cornholing a carcass for tanning. Ive waited until now to start on it. Have new shocks and springs and lbj's to go in. The issue Ive got at the moment is How the hell do you get the steering rack out? Ford dont sell the steel oil pan as a standalone part: you have to buy the whole alloy cradle/sump together for about $750. Im glad I found a second hand one in top condition as they'd only really come off dead engines.

So I'll probably phone Bayford or Jefferson on Tuesday morning for a new one. Heading through the bush back to a mates place on gravel. Up hill and there was a speed hump sized crest I didn't see and hit it at speed. My shocks and springs are quite soft all round from towing horse floats and she went WHACK. Pulled over immediately and she bled all over the place. Left it where it is, tow truck on Tuesday maybe. Its bent with a small slit, so hopefully the pick up is good. Do you guys think there is anything needed apart from a pan and gaskets?

Id love to own a nice timepiece, but my job is filthy and sweaty. Casio it is for now

Good grief!

What am I looking at here? Edit: Nevermind.

Phwoaahhhhh!!!

Cracked turbine housing in the flapper area and between the dump pipe holes. Could have a new housing for ~$950 but 250,000kms I figured get something nice.

I forgot to add, this was exactly how it went down. Anyone wanting to put a GTX Gen 2 turbocharger on a B series manifold in a territory, you can do it easily by drilling new holes in the old actuator bracket. You can use the old actuator as well, and it fits with approximately 3mm of preload which is a tad more than required (use a persuadertron to relieve it if you want). I'll add a photo when Im back under it again as it will show you exactly where I drilled. Using the supplied GTX Gen 2 bracket is basically impossible due to the locations of the fastener bosses cast into the cover, they aren't in the same place as the OEM turbocharger. Omg Im black! Does mum know???

Does such a thing exist for the Territory? Im out of space trying to get an intake to work with the big 4" compressor cover and I dont really want a battery in the cargo area.

👍