luke187

Nice review mate, surprised those forgiato's are quieter with that tread pattern. Do they hollywood squeal when they spin?

Gotta fix the old girl first lol. Damn manuals... what time you getting there?

cool so unleaded and e85. Just need to get an idea if it makes my do it before I install the engine list.

You can just swap the facia or screen if they're cracked. If not you can fire up the car using the ICC from the xt so long as you swap the BCM and stereo from the donor car. If you look under the ICC the BCM is the blue thing, just make sure you mark them before you pull them off so you dont mix them up lol as they are indistinguishable from each other. That needs to stay with the donor ecu or it will have to be flashed to fire up the car. If you cant swap the stereo you can sort of use the XT one but you have to hold AM and MENU every 5 mins to put the stereo into test mode as you get a "code error" - again fixable by flashing at ford (not you flashing ford btw, could get awkward/arrested). FWIW the thing on top of the ICC with the warning is actually the receiver for the key fob, the warning about dropping or turning upside down is there because you'll loose the guys of the cd player. The ICC itself wont get trashed though - who uses CD's anyway??

Looks like a good time, might have to join the forums. Any plans to head out again?

Short n sweet, what sort of boost / power levels do the stock head bolts become an issue with FG turbo engines? Cheers

All honesty mate strip it all down, front guards off, bonnet, bumper lights etc as all the wiring threads through. I'd swap the whole rear end in one go if you can get access to a hoist/tranny jack as barnz said, before you do it I'd do bushes especially if its a manual. CAT600/nolathane rear is the go if you can afford it, you can find him on the ford forums. The gear lever fits straight in just make sure you get the rubber boot off of the manual, wiring loom on the dash is the same for manual / auto just swap the 2 looms going forward on each side, and the "turbo" loom which is the 3rd plug on the ecu and is used for boost control. Theres worth in swapping suspension if one car has significantly less KM or you can do what I did and do bushes while its all out but all in all its simply a matter of stripping 2 cars and rebuilding one. The handling improvement from worn stockies to new nolathane bushes all round was bigger than when I swapped from stockies to bilsteins/king springs on the old bushes.... and if anything its smoother on everything bar harsh bumps. Regarding cost it just depends how patient you are. My build with the FG F6 engine (not in yet), big turbo, id1000's, plenum, tr6060 & new twin plate clutch, big tail shaft, bilstens, f6 seats, brakes etc etc etc cost about the same as a decent BA mk2 xr6 turbo 4 speed. It took me 2 wrecks and a year or so of waiting/prowling ebay, auction houses, gumtree every day to gather all the parts and finally doing ALL of the work at home and theres still more to go but it IS doable on a tight budget.

Fark the 3 speed mate, aside from 15k being way too expensive for that sort of power levels, the BTR will easily run low 12's high 11's with a bit of work and a converter at most. I'll be out at munchies this friday if you're keen.

Interesting barnz, I did notice the car had gone quite flat at the top end and figured it was just me getting used to it. There was no audible sound and you couldnt feel it either so maybe there was a miss like you were getting. Whats the adapter you guys use for torque pro and what do you do to keep the connector in and fuse block cover on? Figured you'd drop the obd2 cable out of the box or something or can you get something that straight fits?

All good, what sort of life are you getting from a set? Ones on my car are an unknown so happy to drop in a new set, probably should have done that during my swap.

Yeah I just wanted to keep some spare ones, going to get a new genuine set off the guy on ebay for $220 that guys have recommended to use. Theres only 1 sick one so throwing away 5 working ones is hard when they're known to fail as often as they do. Is it the heat that's killing them? Figured the cover must work as a little dutch oven for them. Anyone gone to aftermarket coils or an external type that have last longer?

Whats the proper procedure or what are people doing to test coil pack integrity? One or 2 are breaking down under load on my car and had a problem with them when I first got it running, so I dont want to do the coil shuffle on the side of the road swapping them till I find one.

Didnt say, and yeah it does... you'd hope they have in-car adjustable dampers so you can put it into a sport mode. Do these even have IRS yet? I know the early 2000's cobras did. Heres a couple other videos, clearly trying different things as some have stronger more traditional cross plane sound, while some sound clearly like flat plane Then again it could just be fiddling exhausts. This is a 318ti with an ls1 fitted with home-made 180 degree header I read up on a while ago. It offsets the pulses of the second bank to be inline with the first and gives it a 4cyl/cross plane sound. Bit like when they put equal length headers on a wrx and it sounds like a normal 4banger.

Posted this on ford forums, but heres a video of it at nurburg. Can hear the one with the flat plane crank, what do you guys think? I thought it sounded like an old l20 datto engine on the last drive by.

We'll make the solid engine and gearbox mounts ourselves as well, first ones will most likely keep the engine in the standard position and will make a different set once we drop in the FG engine. Sort of need to do the gearbox mounts as well as the stock one is pretty limp and would strain the solid engine mounts over time. As above gearbox needs to be mounted in a urethane of sorts that way it doesnt become a stressed member, since its aluminium it will eventually crack from any sort of chassis twist. We have a bit of work on at the moment but once we get through that we'll get stuck into the mounts, mine are making a mess of the freshly cleaned engine bay lol

Got the new driveshaft in, and will be avoiding hard 1-2 shifts for now . Was thinking the driveshaft was weak but on closer inspection it looks like it was just a lot of force going through it. Diff doesnt move any more, clutch doesnt budge and wheels dont spin so something has to give... Guess that's the issue with building it for big hp without having it yet. You can see where the balls blew out the cv casing, shows you how much force these go through! Was going to go out to lakeside for the 1/8th mile drags but not the best idea, might make it out for a geeze though - hopefully see some guys from the forum out there.

Id be looking at the tuner, fuel is just one part of the tune and the falcon ecu's are really complex being a torque demand system. There are a lot of different layers to them and will throw off anyone who isnt familiar and experienced with them... Even though some of the parts would be holding some power back, people have made well above that power with that exhaust and intercooler - I have the same cooler on my car at the moment and while it does suffer from heat soak quickly, it still does the job alright and makes a bit over 310rwkw on 12psi.

Spewing, you up still up here this week?

Serious? In what car?

Heres a pic of a pic from me on my 600 back in 99. Seen a few bikes at the auctions and they're going cheap, been on my mind a lot recently. Turbo cbr1000 would be so tasty.

Ive ordered a pair of these ones at the back

Yeah dunno. Could be driving style but if I think what ive done to other cars ive nursed this car. Ive popped the clutch all of 2 times in it, dont do burnouts bar one of those clutch kicks.. bout the worst thing that happens is gear changes which is how the first one broke but even then I rarely bash 1-2nd after the first breakage. The car is over-clutched and for street tyres they're decent size and run 0 deg of camber. They're sticky enough for a non drag radial and dont spin at all outside of first. It is possible the shafts were on their way out anyway as both of them that have broken were out of the same car. Best I can assume all of those things combined theres pretty much no give anywhere from the clutch and tyres to the suspension and diff, doesnt make big power but they still make decent torque and is probably highlighting the weakness of the CVs.

Went to munchies tonight, heres a pic of us leaving. Blew another driveshaft about 1km up the road messing around with my mate in his torana. Needless to say I copped about 6,000 ford jokes while waiting for the tow truck - some bigger CV's might be on the cards. Would like a set of driveshaft shop level 5's, maybe I could setup a crazy taxy crowdfunding page lol. Is anyone making stronger CV's at the moment?

No probs mate, life happens. Make sure you give him a DCM for messing your night up... Dont Come Monday

You heading out to munchies tomorrow mate? I'll be making my way out there might have a friend and his LJ coming along too.