luke187

Keen as mustard to go for a run in that mate. As much as I love boosted cars a tough na 8 is a close second. Mate had a tough lh with a 550hp 355 Expensive Daewoo engine. Nothing beats the sound. wtf is an expensive daweoo engine, meant to be Expensive Daewoo engine. No idea how that happened haha. So tired

sh*t man you and your luck. I reckon it'd look ace with black braided hose but im an anti-bling person and not a lot of people would agree with my choices like that lol. Still crazy clean looking engine bay and the whole car itself is amazing. Especially that interior.

Yeah ralf, I nearly bought a BF 2 taxi wagon with 700,000km for $200 from the auctions for the front end, that's probably my favorite b-series front... but for now any money spent somewhere else is money not spent on the good areas. If I play my cards right I should be able to pickup a couple real nice goodies that will change things a bit. Fingers crossed. Selling your car or the manual?

plus that mark on the front bumper pisses me off. No idea how it got there. Car has taken 2 small hits on each side from idiots as well. One on the phone thought it was a good idea to pull over when I was next to him, and some twat lady cut straight through a round about when I was next to her which ended up in me and her husband nearly in a punch up on the side of the road - logan style!

Yeah that is the positive thing with the ba bar, its un-mistakenly not an xr6. Hows your beast going Matty? Been out of the loop a while now but thought I saw in the manual thread you were thinking bout swapping to a 6sp pleasure box?

Found a couple of pics that were taken by GHP last december at munchies, not sure what happened with my photobucket account. Pretty happy how it looks for an XT, hate the ba xt front bar though. So roundy..

FG F6's came with forged pistons, every thing else engine wise is the same to a normal turbo motor, dont forget to add oil pump gears in your list too. FG cams are good, think guys have gone as far as 950-1000whp with them. Really hard to find info when the stock cams get restrictive though. Would love a set in mine but money spent there is money that could be better used elsewhere. Have you looked into a 6466? For that sort of power using the stock log manifold that's where id be going first, saw a car on the weekend put down 670rwhp on e85 with a stock bottom end. Needs a few minor mods to fit as I dont think they are water cooled but I believe the stock dump and the rest of the piping fits up. +1 what keith said too, quality over width (within reason) if you want grip. Last set of tyres I had on my car were some china specials and were shocking which turned into dangerous in the wet. Even though they were 265's they'd spin hard from 80 in the dry with only 320rwkw or so.

Yep should do. Anyone sees a PAIR of 17x9-10 wheels let me know too. Not real fussed how they look

Me too haha. What was a placeholder engine turned into 20,000km stint haha, cant believe this thread was started 2 years ago. Going to part out a bunch of stuff from it over the next week or 2. FG F6 front seats modified on ba rails, ba engine/turbo w/130k's (has valve springs and .7 front housing), Bilstein's w/king springs, t56 tailshaft and stock 3.73 lsd diff, staggered 3 piece 18x8.5 & 18x10 simmons om's, plus and a bunch of other small things if anyones interested. The car's no longer going to be a daily and will push the car now through my old man's workshop which means I can get rid of a few things, make it louder, run bigger/better tyres, e85 etc so this next part cant come too soon.

Haha thanks mate still alive. Engine and box came out yesterday. Will write something when theres things going back in the engine bay, been studying so progress has been too slow...

Sorted out my cooler problem for the time being, picked up a second hand rapid v2 cooler for a few hundred off gumtree. Was on the car for 3 days before it was written off so its like brand new, since it was off and I had some spare time I figured id straighten all the fins out lol. Gotta say it was actually fun. The cooler will look nice sitting up in between the headlights but ive decided im going to stick with a black cooler and the no obvious signs its had a turbo swap because of the PoPo and the fact it generates zero interest from them, and also for the wtf looks you get from people who were sure they'd blow you away. Straightened Since I have a process west one sitting around id thought id compare the 2. Dimensions wise the PW has a monster 4.5" thick core where as this one is 3.5, with the rapid cooler being 20mm shorter as well. I'll try get some pics of the cores to compare the internal core design. In terms of design the most obvious thing is the end tank design, or lack thereof and is typical to cheaper intercoolers. Both the inlet and outlet face directly at each other, so with air behaving like a fluid it will take the path of least resistance and just flow straight through to the other side with little of it filling the top part of the tank, a bit like this: Once its setup with the new engine I'll get some logs and then look into a fix for the tank design, seeing how much it picks up and how far away it ends up from similar tests on expensive coolers. One mod we did over the last 6 months was the clutch master cylinder. The stupid design of a plastic end of the rod is put through a lot of stress and 12 years later are brittle, heavy clutch resulted with this just taking off from home: Mal wood does a billet shaft with a nylon bush so I sent the master cyl with the broken end away and are really happy with what we got back. All up it cost something like $110 which I was happy for since a new cylinder was $200, and while we were at it did away with the stupid locking washer nut that holds in place, drilling a hole on the clutch pedal side and using a split pin so now it can be dropped real quick. Heres the pic under the dash with it installed: As soon as I pushed the clutch pedal it was obvious it was far better, and driving it left an even better impression. Much smoother, the pedal is lighter and no longer feels flimsy. Quick shifts as well were much easier. Anyone who had a manual id recommend doing this mod to save getting stuck as its inevitable the plastic end will fail, and then for feel as it really did make that much of a difference. Still on the hunt for a surge tank, at the moment we're looking at a drop in replacement plazmaman style one like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171867672252?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT ,or modifying and going to an aerofast once since their 4l tanks are only $150.

You sure its not your bov leaking/failed or the vacuum line to it?

I believe goodyear stock them mate. Guys around the corner from me do, the importer didnt have a lot of nt05r's in stock at the moment but were getting more in shortly. That was 2 weeks ago.

What size turbo does it have

Any ideas where to contact him, quick searches of usual places but no cigar

Thanks mate, somewhat happy how it looks just unhappy with the front. New wheels should sit further out and im hoping bf mk1 bar should make the front look less crown victoria cop car and a bit more aggressive. Will probably ditch the badge on the grill too. Looking at this cooler: https://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=86217&cat_key=63&prodname=TRV25+Series+Intercooler++1000HP .With the AUD crashing though im leaning towards buying a nice core and getting some tanks made up. The treadstone one is still only $700 posted to oz though. Wouldnt've thought its the cooler as it makes no difference if I drive off boost the whole way. Soon as I park and get back in I see 60c, even in winter lol. Anyway its not an issue in the future as the fg engine has a pw plenum so all this sh*t piping ive put up with will be in the recycle bin. I'll get pics of the interior this week if I can, car is hard to get to at the moment.

Also got a better picture of the car lol, currently in the hunt for a bf front bar as well.

Thought I'd update this, progress has been a bit slow due to life and money but its picking up momentum again. Have done a good 13,000km in the car and enjoy it every time I go for a drive now that I've sorted a few issues and finished off a bunch of stuff,,, just didnt get round to updating the thread. Had to sort out the power disparity, some days it was great others rubbish. I ran an android phone / obd bluetooth adapter and found with the stock piping if I say drive normally up the highway to a shopping center, park the car for an hour and get back in, the inlet temps jump up from 30c to 60c and stay there from heat soak which is probably why ford got rid of the retarded double pass over the rocker cover. Next was waiting for winter with the sh*t cooler, and finally I went through the tune and fixed up the boost control so now it comes on a lot harder, updated the injector data and lowered the limiter from 6400 to 6100 as I dont fancy throwing a rod. Finished off the interior a couple of months ago with a blacked out roof, a/b/c pillars, lights, hangers, sun visors, icc & shifter surround etc. Picked up some fairmont ghia leather door trims/center console lid, painted the dash spears in a flat harvest green (same as body colour), FG F6 front seats, installed the green xr6 rear seat covers off one of the wrecks. Will try get some pics up soon. Also managed to score a set of 18x8 & 18x10 Simmons OM's which I'll run on the car once I get them powder coated and a set of tyres. The hankooks I was running are demolished, pretty much down to the carcass now. Decided to run a set of 285 35 18 nt05's next. Last parts to acquire before the fg engine goes in will be surge tank, cooler, exhaust. All the cheap stuff Took the car off the road last week as I split the upper radiator hose dumping all the coolant, luckily right around the corner from home. At first I thought maybe it was bad news with something pressurising the cooling system but ended up working out it was torn from the engine twisting. Quick look shows both mounts totally rooted so we're finally in process of making solid mounts up, as well as a urethane gearbox mount that should stop the casing from becoming a stressed member.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Billet-Compressor-Wheel-Garrett-GTX3582R-62-5-82-5mm-58-Trim-11-Blade-/291409153668?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item43d956ce84 Would have thought the bent blade would just reduce the efficiency of the turbo. Seen a few threads around where people said they had a bent fin but aside from the sound had no issues.

Stock rev limit is around 6500 isnt it? I know a few guys run their stock internal fg's to 7000, cant imagine it making much more power above that without cams though. Really keen to see what the s366 makes, would have thought it wouldnt be far behind precision units which are putting down as much as 430-440rwkw on 98 on stock internal engines. Built bottom end and some more boost should easily surpass that. What housing did you go for? From memory only the .88 is undivided and although a small A/R they use a 73mm turbine so shouldnt choke it at higher revs.

How come you're rebuilding the engine completely now, did I miss something / you find a whole heap of damage? I thought it was just light scoring of the bores and the hardening on the rockers was starting to lift? I get that its disheartening when you sent those pics but something repaired properly isnt going to cause you issues. I would have dropped the sump and checked some of the mains if it was a concern, if all good and looks good get a wrecker motor like I suggested, grab the lifters and rockers out of that and get up and going with a set of bearings if it was actually needed and re-assemble it yourself. If the bottom end is fookukad why spend thousands and thousands when you could just buy a new short for under 3k? As a friend it looks like you're in risk of sinking huge dollars and ending up (performance wise) with the original build you were going to do. I know people have told you this but your car is your car. You set your goals for your car, listen to what people have to say but you'll give yourself a stroke and a whole bunch of resentment to your car if you let everyone and everything change your mind back and forth. The original plan of fg engine/ dominello auto/ e85 sounded like a reall good one that would give you everything you were after, and a ute that if hooks would be into the 10s. Maybe now is the time you need to stop and sit back and work out what you're after again... If its still the 450ish rwkw dominello btr I think you're going down the wrong (unnecessarily expensive little extra power) path. Theres 2 cars ive seen making more than the power you're chasing on an fg na motor, and a handful of guys are doing close to it on ba engines which you already own. Was reading on here I think someone had a stock internal 750whp fg turbo engine that saw up to 800 at one point(?), and was sitll running like that for a couple of years later without issue. If you're thinking about building a forgie for bigger power its wasted money now and if you want more power you'll need to go through your car again and change a lot of the supporting hardware from turbo and fuel system to gearbox and suspension/wheels & tyres. To that id say go with the cheaper one and be content with 450rwkw probably 10 second @ 130+mph sleeper that'll probably have issues hooking up on the highway with those tyres you run.

Top fuels often diesel past the 1/8th after the electrodes are blown out the exhaust, so yeah they knock that sort of stress would be one small reason the engine does an estimated 5-600 rotations before being stripped down. On topic im guessing this screamer is mounted off the turbine housing, if so it'll be more of a loud talking pipe than a screamer pipe as the sound is still passing through the turbine. A gate mounted off the exhaust manifold venting un-muffled sound straight from the head which is why they're so loud.. Not sure if id want that to happen every time I hit full boost though, already sh*t my dacks and check mirrors as it is now.

Awesome stuff, what sort of driveshafts are you using?

Biggest OEM brakes you can get without going to brembos are the ones on my car, but you have to have a 17" front wheel, can still keep it sleeper by using some 17" falcon wheels though . Slotted will operate better at higher temps because they clear some of the gasses that build up between the pad and rotor and bigger rotors dissipate heat better due to the extra disk, plus give a bit more force (think stopping a bicycle wheel by grabbing the hub, then again but grabbing the tyre). Ive got EBC red's after I was talked out of getting yellows for the street which im really happy with. The bed-in process on their webpage was 10 quick 100-20km/h stops in succession, drive for 5-10mins and do it again. They handled that without any fade and stopping power wise mine can EASILY over-power the tyres at any speed ive tried with the abs off so I wouldnt get too hung up on something like brembo's and put that money into the rest of the next part of your build. I believe its just get bigger rotors and a different caliper bracket. I did get them to fade the other week chasing down a bike on the way down from springbrook but didnt lose any pedal so the pads were getting too hot. Next set of pads I'll be getting yellows but I'd imagine even the reds would be more than up for the task at an event like powercruise. .. and get a 6466

Lol all good choosing wheels is hard, im not sure if I'd ever be 100% satisfied. I have staggered speedy cheetah's on my car, 19x8.5 245's and old style cheetah 19x9.5 275s on the rear for extra dish. Have a geeze at the wheel and tyre forum, this thread is good: http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/48416-rims-what-have-you-got/