Jump to content

ERICtheBERIC

Member
  • Content Count

    96
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

16 Good

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Perth

Recent Profile Visitors

1,465 profile views
  1. Gday guys im putting togther an FG motor to put into my BA and have run into a couple issues. Im using an FG turbo plenum with some normal 3/4 length injectors and the plug on cylinder 1 is fouling on a casting in the head just wondering as to why. Do the FG's use a slimmer plug or something? At this stage I think ill have to grind away at the head to get it to clear unless there are other options? Another issue is the water feed line to the turbo. As im using the FG plenum I have to also use the FG heater line which has a different size and orientation of the turbo offshoot out of the thermostat housing if you know what I mean. I suppose I could get a tube bender and bend it and flare it into the right shape but I still have the issue of different tube sizing. The BA line is 8mm OD while the FG is 13mm. Ive been trying to look for a rubber hose reducer and havent had any luck, ideally it would also have a roughly 30 deg bend in it, any ideas where I might look for such a thing? And finally there is this sensor on the BA motor which sat on one of the plenum bolts. No idea what it does but id doesnt fit on the FG plenum due to tight spacing to the heater line, just wondering if its anything important or if it can be deleted? Thanks a million for any help as always. I still havent figured out how to put images from imgur into a post cos im retarded but hopefully the above link works
  2. thanks mate yeah I see what you mean with the seals on the rocker cover side. Just weird how theres still the bolt holes on the FG cam caps if theyre not being used.. they are the right cam covers for that motor so no dramas there
  3. Gday guys, im trying to fit the VCT solenoids to my FG n/a + Turbo motor and ran into a bit of an issue. I was originally going to use the VCT's from my BA turbo motor but they are apparently too short (on the right of the photo). The FG solenoids I have dont have the holding bracket attached to them like the BA ones do so they are free to rotate within the housing even though there is a bolt hole in the cam caps. Am I missing a bracket to hold them in?
  4. Youre a legend mate, ill msg you when I get around to installing it in the coming weeks if you havent done a write up by then. I mean you could say that about just about anything when working on cars... gotta learn one way or another
  5. Gday guys, I bought a second hand plazmaman surge tank, unfortunately the original owner didnt retain the fitting instructions and Ive email plazmaman but they arent being helpful. Just wondering if anyone has their instructions they might be willing to share?
  6. ive been told to always machine the rotors when changing pad compound because apparently the pad material embeds itself into the rotor and and the new compound may not work properly on the old. Sanding the rotors by hand seems ill advised to me as it likely wont get rid of the old pad material out of the rotor and probably result in an uneven finish, reducing contact surface area. I just did a track day down at Collie (a track which is hard on brakes couple hours south of perth) on my trusty PBR premium front calipers and territory rears and had no issues with fade... until the rotors decided to crack on the 3rd outing. Never buying drilled rotors again
  7. Gday guys, just after a bit of advice again if I could im getting together some parts for hopefully a ~400 rwkw fg turbo motor build for my BA Ive recently bought a second hand plazmaman surge tank with twin bosch 044, which I am planning on using just the one pump on and ive got another 044 in the tank in an aftermarket cradle with larger swirl pod etc I bought ages ago really wanting to use the stock FG turbo fuel rail to save some money, Will the stock fuel pressure reg suffice or should I go one of those GFB drop in FPR's?
  8. Ive been having an intermittent issue with my BA xr6t manual that's absolutely doing my head in. While driving at constant speed, the revs will suddenly drop all the way down to idle while my foot is still on the throttle. It will then idle rough and when I reapply the throttle it will stall out completely. When I go to start the car again, it does not crank and the battery light comes on the dash. After turning the key all the way back and trying again it will eventually crank over and run fine for some time before going back to the issues described above. Seems to only do it when its warm and it logs no faults on my torque pro app. Parts I have thrown at it to fix the issue so far: crank angle sensor throttle position sensor new plugs and coils new battery new fuel pump and filter Ive bought a second hand throttle body to try but I dont have high hopes that that will fix it. Any other ideas on what else it might be fellas? Im really at a loss here, any input would be greatly appreciated.
  9. So I thought Id make a thread for my build now that its FINALLY started, to get some feedback and advice from you guys along the way as youve been quite helpful in the past . You may remember me from a few years ago when I swapped a BA turbo motor and manual gearbox into my BA xt. the car in question: Shes been going pretty strong over the years with some brake and suspension upgrades and ive finally got some cash together to build a motor. Nothing too crazy as I am by no means a millionaire but I want to achieve a reliable 500 rwhp for some circuit track work and keep it regoed while getting the most bang for buck I can achieve. The overall plan was to buy a low kms FG n/a motor, recondition it and slap on the stock turbo setup from the current car. As my old man owns a machine shop here in perth I am able to get all the machining and assembly done for free and just pay for the new hardware. At the moment the plan is to use stock rods and pistons, while upgrading the usual stuff: oil pump gears, valve springs, turbo exhaust valves, all which has already been purchased. The machine work has also begun starting with the head. Weve recut the valve seats, installed the new fg exhaust valves and cleaned up the stock intake valves, installed new crow cams valve springs and faced the head. Heres the video of the valve seat cutting which is pretty neat: And the freshly faced head: Up next is to torque plate hone the block, deck it, balance and polish the crank and prepare for assembly. One other thing im aware of is the dipstick location is on the drivers side on the fg block, so ill have source a BA sump to get its location and drill the block. Has anyone here done this before? And one other thing I wanted to clear up is the FG n/a cams are identical to the turbo cams correct? Ive called up ford and was told they are the same part number
  10. So im finally starting the engine build for my BA xr6t sedan now that the tax dollars have come in. I bought an FG n/a motor a few months back with the intention of stripping it and doing the basic mods before swapping it into the car with the stock BA turbo and the rest of the running gear (sump, ECU, plenums, etc) . The mods I have planned are as follows: valve springs (purchased) billet oil pump gears maybe FG turbo exhaust valves depending on price injectors fuel pump intercooler (already purchased a nizpro core) turbo side intake with crossover delete, 12 psi actuator mild exhaust with high flow cat tune The aim is to achieve around 500 whp and have the car as my daily and do a bit of circuit work on weekends. Ive read that some people prefer to use the FG egas motor for a turbo conversion, my question is whether its worthwhile for me to buy an egas motor for my application as they can be sourced quite cheaply. And could somebody possibly explain to me what the differences between the FG petrol and egas motors actually are as ive read some conflicting information. Cheers guys
  11. Well the point of this exercise is as much to get the experience in engine building as it is to have a fast daily. All labour except the tuning will be done for free at my old man's engine shop, and all new parts will be cost price for me. I plan on doing the engine install myself, and getting whatever parts I can second hand to really try and cut the cost down. I actually just picked up a second hand nizpro cooler locally for $350 yesterday: I get that I could achieve the same outcome for less money by getting another xr6t with the work already done, but I dont have the money to outright buy one, and ive upgraded quite a few things on my falcon already that I would really like to keep, and also I would love to stick with the xt look for the sleeper points. So keeping that in mind my next dilemma is deciding on which plenum to use. Ive got the black plastic plenum that came with the FG motor, the variable length one from my BA, or ideally I was looking at a FG turbo plenum but they are pretty expensive ~$500. what do you guys recon would be the best option there?
  12. im aiming for about 500 rwhp with the stock turbo in my BA, it seems plazmaman and process west have discontinued their stage 1 kits and I would think that a stage 2 is overkill for my application. Is there anyone else that makes quality coolers for XR6 turbos for reasonable prices that I could check out ?
  13. Hey guys not sure if this is the right place to ask this but does anyone in Perth have a balancer remover I could possibly borrow for an hour? Be happy to give a 6 pack in return and leave my wallet/phone with you until I give it back
×
×
  • Create New...