aiboart

If the handbrake adjustment is done correctly as per the manual then handbrake will work perfectly for ever, life of the car etc. If you do the half arse shortcut approach you will be lucky to get three weeks before the handbrake is useless, again. The issue is in the dealerships and their complete lack of QA and QC. The issue is not in the engineering.

The noises make the engine sound crap. In general the noises will not always be present, but, they will likely manifest after a hot run when the engine is at idle. The fix is simple, easy, fast and cheap. 1 Get genuine parts from a Ford dealer: Pulley circa $25Tensioner circa $90 (this includes the whole assembly with the metal body, internal tension mechanism and both pulleys)Don't mess with non-genuine parts. It is a waste of time. 2 Total changeover time for the pulley and the tensioner for a first timer ---> 20-30 minutes just remember to remove the thermo fan plate before you try to do anythingthermo fan plate removal --> unclip electrics, undo two bolts visible on the side of the plate and then carefully slide the plate vertically up through its track)the tensioner comes off as a whole assembly, just remove the center bolt.

1- Buy the best all purpose road tyres available on the market. Otherwise just don't bother. 2- Keep the factory springs. Increasing the spring rates costs grip. 3- Stick to factory size wheels. Wagon wheels cost you grip, comfort, acceleration, deceleration, refinement and bulk $$$. Steam roller wheels can add grip, but, in these cars geometry becomes an issue and that in turn costs grip. 4- Buy high end monotubes dampers. These will keep your wheels where they should be, in contact with the road. Otherwise just don't bother. 5- Look at the factory standard torque curve. Note that it is dead flat. Note that this is perfection. In simple terms a dead flat torque curve eliminates jerk (that really is a technical term) as you sweep through a (fixed) gear ratio and this is very, very, very good for keeping the contact patch stuck to the road. The more marginal the grip conditions (say a wet road) the more the level of grip is critically dependant on an absence of jerk. Removing jerk however also removes that visceral sensation of 'punch in the back', which is boring for some... those that literally like spinning their wheels and going no-where... If are going to tune your car and you are after grip rather than 'punch in the back', then you need to create a dead flat torque curve, albeit at a higher level than the factory model. 6- Drive smoooooth. Wait for weight transfer to occur, which increases grip... and then feed in yet more torque. RPM-threshold and turbo-lag can be your friends in low grip conditions, exploit them. Both RPM-threshold and turbo-lag add a time function to the torque delivery, which in turn reduces jerk and increases grip. Nearly all modern cars use digital time functions on the throttle fly-by-wire outputs in order to reduce jerk. The aim here is to preserve the adhesive of the contact patch (to stop the car spinning off the road), and, to stop jerk damaging the driveline (for warranty reasons).

There is no straight answer. Increasing the proportion braking force applied by the FRONT wheels comes from: ...the harder you brake (there is a feedback loop involved) ...the longer you spend braking ....the higher your car ....the more nose heavy your car is to begin with ....the harder your springs. ....the EBD program doing its thing... ..if you have the same size and type of tyres F to R As a rough guide: if you decide to correlate F/R pad wear on a standard BA XR6T to braking force (and yes the pad and disc sizes and pad and disc materials are different F-R), then, the rough number that comes out suggests that the front wheels do at least 4x the braking of the rears. Increasing the proportion braking force applied by the REAR wheels can come from: -... loading up the back, say with a ute or by towing a large load -... having a rear engined car -... downforce -... having big grippy tyres at the rear -... EBD doing its thing

I had a similar issue, as per the posts above, the root cause was a failure of one of the copper washers at the turbo.

FWIW Remove everything from the list for starters. Then add: best possible tyres to fit factory wheels Bilstein sports shocks hi-po Factory brakes (if not already present) braided lines lightweight wheels in the same sizes as factory tyresOnly after that even think of adding powa but ensure that brakes, wheels, tyres, dampers etc. are suitable for the proposed torque/power levels.

Even specific trees have been mapped more or less correctly.... Amazing stuff.

Something uber special is coming and it is not a sticker-special. What exactly it is howeve remains to be seen.

TT-V6 is missing at this stage from the Aussie launch. This is very sad. T-I4 will run over 220kW with a flat torque curve... and low total and front end mass to boot.... If you can put up with an I4, this might be the model to watch for at launch...

It might be worth trying other phones to see what happens. FWIW, it seems like the issue is in the phone.

Width is one factor when it comes to grip. A vastly more significant factor is the quality of the tyre itself. Put the money into getting the great street rubber.

Best possible road tyres. Bilstein shocks. Best XR6T/F6 Factory brake package you can fit/afford. Ensure that all bushes are up to scrach, replace as required. Braided brake lines. Lightweight standard size wheels. Enjoy.

Do you mean like this? http://www.dba.com.au/tech-article-t026-brake-shudder-%E2%80%93-hat-type-disc-rotors/ If so, read the link.

Rotors will lightly rust in about an hour after being washed down. However, a run will either: remove the rust and leave the metal bright and shiney remove the rust and leave behind a light coating of pad friction materialWhether you get result 1 or 2 depends on: the chemistry of your padsthe nature of your runThe only rust that should remain on the disc is: on the disc hubon the outside edge of the discinside the disc on the vanes or pillarsAny other rust present would appear to be wrong.

Anthropogenic Global Warming did that. Be afraid, be very afraid... Oh and hand over your money and your country over to High Priests of The Green Religion. Only they can save us....

The reason you buy a billet oil cap is to prevent the OEM plastic version breaking down with time and ending up in your valve gear. It happens rather a lot. All metal expands when heated, billet, cast, machined, sintered, 3D printed whatever. The billet metal caps expand, your engine block expands, so do your heads, your turbo wheels expend, the Harbour Bridge expands.... if it's metal it expands with heat.

Nu Finish, the stuff in the bright orange bottle. Bullet proof shine that last a year and can also be applied in full sun with a damp rag.

I had similar issues. First induction hoses constantly blowing off, then crazy torque at low revs and then it started to overboost at higher revs. The boost actuator was faulty. You can buy the OEM version of the actuator, the exact same unit that Garrett sell to Ford, for about $150 retail. The repair is a simple bolt-off, bolt-on. Ford does not sell the boost actuator, only the entire turbo assembly, which they want to sell for $7000.

Note: - threshold is related to engine RPM's, it where the turbo comes on boost - lag is the time function that applies once the turbo once the boost threshold has been reached Where the turbo comes on boost (the threshold) depends on the size and the design of the turbo and on the size of the engine driving the turbo. A little turbo has a low threshold but the turbo runs out of capacity at low power levels. A big turbo has a high threshold but also has higher power potential. The current lower limit for a conventional turbo boost threshold is about 1,200 rpm. However, high-end variable vane turbo's (like a variable pitch prop - seriously expensive) can go-lower still whilst still maintaining high power capability. New e-turbo's (compressor driven by electric motors and using the 'turbo' turbine to generate electrical power that is stored in a battery etc. ) will have no RPM threshold. As for the power delivery: The ideal power delivery for driver control is when the turbo comes on boost and then the torque curve stays dead flat. (This is possible with turbo's because the computer systems give the boost an electronic haircut. With a turbo there is more than enough power potential to be able to do this.) The result is highly linear power delivery that enables the driver to maintain high levels of control in all conditions. The ideal power delivery for turbo's for seat of the pants visceral thrills is a lumpy-spiky torque curve. This creates high rates of torque change and therefore high rates of acceleration change (jerk/jolt). The result is is the classic 'punch in the back' experience and tyre frying action.

Air intakes can make a staggering amount of noise. The intake noise potential is not in the same league as exhaust but up there nonetheless. To resolve, return to stock.

Yep, changes feel significantly. Significantly reduces latency and improves linearity. All good things, especially in tricky braking environments such as wet weather conditions and complex road sections.

Disagree. These cars are big and heavy yes, but, RWD and that big flat torque plateau and that chassis ensures that these cars are seriously agile; transient ability is simply awesome.

If the brake system is fuctioning correctly you could have a pad selection issue and could in fact be running a race compound. A race compound will offer exceedinly poor braking until the pads are hot. That does not help if you are tooling around and suddenly need to make an emergency stop. If the brake system itself is not working correctly there could be a plethora of root causes. These could incude: - brakes not bedded. (You need to go for a drive.) - discs too thin (92K km does not sound right for a set of discs. Frankly you would be expecting a fraction of that.) - discs mounted on rusty hubs inducing runout - caliper or master cylinder issues or fluid-air issues

The technology and social value arguments are beside the point. Labor has trashed the execution of every project it has so much as looked at with each project disaster more profoundly gob smacking than the last. The rolling farce has wasted well over $100B of taxpayer's money. The NBN is already completely out of control with respect to costings and timelines. The so-called Labor government over its history looked like nothing more than some type of unholy TV genera smash-up; a lame sit-come about a group of frank idiots who just happen to decide to team up with some Mafia types and Green Religion Zealots in order to take the reins of a major democracy... absolutely hilarious... except for those citizens who had to endure this crap for six years. In the days of Hawke and Keating Labor provided Australia with profoundly brilliant governance. What is needed is to bulldoze of the current fetid Labor machine and The Green Religion into the ground. Only then can Labor shed the Mafia types and the crazy Priests of the Green Religion and rebuild itself into a party worthy of governing Australia in the future.

The orginal video has an ICBM.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p1uwQVtHHOQ