MX Dave

Atomic, crow or Nizpro are all good value for money

Yeah there's little seals that go around the vct plugs that you gotta get out. I can't remember exactly but I think tey are held in with little 8mm bolts then you flick the seal out. (gently) reinstall with some blackmax and all good

Yeah it's easy. If you got the standard manifold you gotta unbolt the throttle body though

$10 bucks says the Ace will hold 50% more power for 50% longer Even though I had some dramas with my Ace clutch I would still recommend it. Lighter than stock.

Only thing I've done to my car lately is drive playfully through all the wet roads Needs coil packs soon

Haven't taken much notice to physical differences between the two when servicing. But honestly without being bieast the Expensive Daewoo box feels like a pile of snot compared to the typhoon box in my falcon. Second is like a kilometre from first and it takes multiple goes to get it in reverse without crunching.

You won't smell them mate. Unless the gasket is totally furked. You will need a little pump with testing fluid in a couple different chambers. You pump it over the open resiovouir at operating temperature and the liquid changes colour if exhaust gases are present. 99% of mechanics will have these and shouldn't charge anything to test My bad should of explained better.

Check for exhaust gases in your coolent when running. If your really unlucky your head gasket may be on its way out

Yeah we use a suction pump at work in same fashion for fluid change. Although a proper two person bleed always yields better results if done properly. The vacuum can sometimes draw air through the thread. If the nipples aren't drawing don't stress. Fully undo them unblock the little hole with a pin or needle then smash compressed air down it. Put it back in and all good

I think slash meant to use those parts If intending to run on E85. If it where my car I'd make a surge with 044, add a cold air intake, change the wastegate actuator and valve springs then retune

I use Penrite oil. After "track like" work.. Cough... I could smell it boiling, wouldn't recommend it. Trying Fuchs next.

Solid flywheel mate. PM me a reminder tomorrow night and ill go and get the measurements for you.

To be honest I'm just completely curious. A build thread on engines 1000hp+ are better to read than novels! If you ever get some spare time PM me a quick list of parts and prep and mods would be greatly appreciated. But as I said I don't need anything. I just find engines like that porn and the part lists the two page flip out.

Holy sh*t mate, you got a build thread for that motor I'm really curious about the specs!

Shudder under braking is normally buggered rotors. My bet is they were installed incorrectly or the more likely option your wheel nuts have been over tightened.

Defiantely give Mal Wood a ring. Pretty certain he makes explode proof housings to suit the t56 on older falcons. Although I'm not sure about the t5

Ring your tuner mate they all prefere different actuators. Yours may need waste gate port aswell so don't get too carried away.

That pump will be fine, Although a surge tank and 044 would be the wiser option

Pretty sure they are the same mate. If you wanted to upgrade I wouldn't bother with genuine items. Try crow, Nizpro or atomic ones. Much better value for money!

If it hasn't got an external turbo oil supply filter put 2.5k aside ready to fix It. With that many kms it would be close to happening. Diff bush is one thing to look at. ( driveline clunks) more noticable in reverse. Broken oil filler cap is another to keep an eye on. (they perish from heat and break into the motor) If its lowered check the inner rear cvs for play/ clunks. Is iT manual or auto? If its a 5sp manual you can't really push it past 290odd rwkw without it breaking. Also if it's the stock clutch it would certainly need replacing soon. If auto you should invest in a proper transcooler if your a aggressive driver. That's most of the expensive faults covered. One other thing id check is for coolent milkshake. Bad head gasket and check all the heater hoses and rad hoses for weeping and corrosion etc... Best of luck.

Sure does. Still luck of the draw with valve float though. You may make 300rwkw or 350...

Ford specifies: 135 NM

Over tightening wheel nuts can cause irreversible brake shudder. If it were my car id check wheel balance, tyre pressures, rotor runout and wheel alignment. A checklist for all of those should pinpoint what is going wrong. I'd run a higher pressure in the rear if I were you. Best of luck mate.

Holy sh*t!

Coming from me as a mechanic in a small business: pain to work on and annoying to get parts for haha. The ones I've driven haven't gone as quick as my falcon. But I gotta admit I love the grills and some of the body shapes they put out