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LazyBrennan

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LazyBrennan last won the day on July 19

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About LazyBrennan

  • Birthday 01/02/1990

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    arelette@hotmail.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Baldivis, Wait Ages.
  • Interests
    Ford.

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  1. So recently working on the old mans GT I was installing some injectors getting ready to " I <3 Bananas send it" lol. Everything went sweet apart from this bloody vacuum connection that broke behind the intercooler. From research it seems to be quiet common but no detailed fixing instruction so here you go. This fitting is connected to the fuel vapour canister purge outlet. As you can see here this is how mine broke with the thread still stuck. Being in such a *beep* of a spot I decided rather than trying to get hands behind there it was easier to just take the intercooler out. To do this start by disconnecting your oil breather from your air intake piping then take your air intake piping out by loosen the hose clamps each end and wiggling the hose off each end. Next take the 10mm bolt out holding your engine oil dipstick to the throttle body housing as you'll need to shift this a little to get the throttle body out. Next disconnect both connection to the throttle body then take out the 4 bolts holding the throttle body and remember to grab the gasket and not let it fall down into the engine bay and look after it!! Might even be worth inspecting and replacing. If you're experiencing the main issue here you know how temperamental these cars get with a simple air leak lol. Shimmy the dip stick out of the way to slide the throttle body out. Next you need to disconnect this "hat" or bracket. They are a 5mm hex bolts so be careful not to round them like I did 🤦‍♂️ Next start taking out the torx screws holding the 335 plate down. From memory I think they are a T20 bit. Once that's off disconnect the T-map sensor plug and move the wiring out of the way, The sensor can stay in. The rubber under the 335 plate is a charger "silencer" from what I was told... Ours looked good in the bin 🤷‍♂️ Next start taking out the 8mm bolts holding the intercooler housing down. You will need a 1/4" uni joint socket and a small extension to get the back 4 bolts out, Handy to keep a magnet on hand as well so you don't drop any bolts down into the bay. Now the housing should just lift straight out. Next take the 6 bolts out holding the intercooler down then just lift the cooler out. Now there's plenty of room to get the thread out, I just used a thread extractor tool. With the tube still connected to the fitting you just push in and hold down the fitting end then pull the tube out. Now I went to Enzed to get some metal fittings because F*#! ever having to do this again because of cheap plastic. The parts I got (on my Enzed receipt) Product code - A72-0604 72 3/8X1/4 M&F Adaptor Product code - 20003-M0806 M STR 8mm Tube X 3/8 BSPT You will also need to disconnect the oil breather line just to screw this fitting in. Now just push the hose back into the fitting and reverse all the steps to put it all back together Hope this helps anyone who has this happen to them and hey.. Least you know how to do half of the job installing a after market intercooler 😈
  2. Cheers mate! Trust it to be blocked at work haha 🤦‍♂️
  3. Hey guys Does anyone have a digital copy of the 335 workshop service manual or know anywhere I can get it? Happy to pay for it but I can only find workshop manuals for the 6's
  4. What a F%^%ing day its been... Can anyone tell me what this connection is called and whats the best way to get to it so I can pull the broken bit of plastic out?
  5. haha I meant looking at the engine bay what cylinder is what number. I was under the assumption drivers side was 1 to 4 starting from the front of the car but im hearing different things.
  6. Legend mate cheers! Dont know what number order the cylinders go in by any chance?
  7. Hey guys Been trying to find the answer and can’t find it. How much engine oil do these 335’s take for a service? Cheers
  8. Well Racewars was a world of fun!!! I had 2 400m passes making 215 and 216 kmh then I had 3 800m rolling passes. First was 260, 261 then 265. Unfortunately I only got 1 run on the 1000m due to the incident but I managed a 270. Horrible launch and bad gear changes so hopefully next year I can crack at least 275. But all in all I am stoked!!! Was an awesome weekend and can't wait for next year! Massive thanks to @IH8TOADS Unreal tuning and help! Missus got some awesome photos and a video of toads and my self racing on the 800m roll on.
  9. Missus got some wicked shots of my car in Albany on the weekend. I also got a wicked one of @discostig
  10. Who’s coming to watch and who’s entered this weekend!?
  11. Its a world of fun haha. Taking the car to race wars in March and trying to get to the motor plex before hand to see how it goes. Just seen another post you made about the turbo. Normal driving its still very responsive. Great fun on the street. The big tune, Man it just sings! Doesn't take bugger all to get it moving. Highly rate it.
  12. So I may need to be moved to the 500 club Chucked a T40Z in, GFB fuel regulator, Second Pierburg pump with a 300lph intank pump. Have entered into race wars for 2019 so should be a lot of fun! Can't wait! Now sitting on adjustable pedders coil overs. I have had some HD axles go in and have a built tail shaft sitting there ready to go in so after race wars hoping to get down to the quarter mile to try and go for a mid 10. May have more in it but bit hard to tell considering I only get 1 pass then kicked out... Couple more photos
  13. A bit of an update. I had the rocker cover off yesterday and the timing looks fine and the chain is fine. We chucked a known working throttle body on today. With the key on (Car not started) on the logs shows the throttle body fully open when putting my foot flat down on the peddle. We went for a drive and on WOT the logs shows its not fully opening. So seems to have an issue somewhere going on there. On a 15 psi tune only getting 11 psi still.


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