F1PERFORMANCE

Get some 400 wet and dry sandpaper and some crc and work the sealing face on a flat surface to get rid of any high spots - clean with break clean if you are going to use silicone afterwards.

This is very common when a valve has hit a piston - from my experience you can bend a valve and it not show the usual signs as spring pressure seats the valve good enough to mask the problem - and in time the valve will fail from fatigue its like bending a metal backwards an forwards till it breaks. Note my experience is with larger valves and spring seat pressure - The valve guide might give you the answer to what has been going on with the valve

coming off the rear rollers has to affect power as the rear roller inertia is built into the calibration - it is between 8 - 14 % ramp rate and roller weight and size vary this figure

Ramp rates only affect power cause the drive train inertia figure you are using is to high get that rite and a 15 or 20km per second ramp rate will make no difference. example 8 and 8F - shootout has fixed figures as it mode used to provide equal conditions for dyno days / competitions- the only variables will be tie down and air temp sensor.

I fitted nolathane and I think they way to harsh - I will go back std + nolthane void inserts if that helps.

check oil drain pipe - it is just as important.

This is how you tie down a high hp car and if done this way you can go from dyno to dyno with little or no power difference with a DD dyno..

I will post photos of both discs

rda and ebc reds dont mix they leave black resin on the disc ( not hot Spots ) I have had same issues with t3 and ebc red - got rid of ebc reds and t3s have been fine with out macihing discs and warped feeling is gone + heaps quieter during hard braking

My thoughts on these pitted cams would be lack of matinance or valve float not syn oil.

injector flow app by efi hadware is very good try it and you will have your answer

6 and 4 piston share same disc so they should fit

the pcv valve has nothing to do with your brakes unless you mean the 1 way valve on the booster. From your description it seems like you have a faulty 1 way valve or a hole in the booster diaphragm.

G & J diffs in dandy

your upper control arm bushes will be stuffed and you will have to much camber and not enough caster

test dont guess it will always be cheaper!!

DTM automatics ask for Aaron

the piston would have hit the valves if its hit the plug - my thoughts are it has happened from detonation from lean mixture (broken fuel filter) - would get a bore scope down there asap and dont drive it untill you have checked it .

throttle is used for idle so it will never zero

I pretty sure the dill size is a tad over 6mm in alloy for a helicoil

8mm is a very common bolt size but the helicoil should able you to keep the bolt size std as you need to drill larger than the bolt you have as you have to wind in the new thread.

helicoil them and no 1 will ever know + stronger

I work in sales at Dyno Dynamics

A guy at work got 4 for 3 deal last week re002 he only paid $1140 = 385 x3 I would shop around

take it and put it on a dyno - it could be a number of things test dont guess - it will only get worse and simple problem could break or break some thing else like your engine - the cost of coils and plugs could of paid to fix the problem - dont mean be harsh but I have seen heaps of people learn the very hard lessons.