Daniel

There is an issue with the rear bumper bar inserts for the FPV too! I have had to wait months to get a replacement and then when they had one arrive, it wasn't wide enough to fill the whole rear insert section! FPV can't even make things the same size as the original components these rattling junkets come with from factory! My panel shop claims FPV don't know what the problem is or when it will be fixed... they have tried 3 from FPV (all new of course) and now FPV told them they are all the same and have had similar reports from other shops!!!! I would love to tell them what their problem is but I don't think there is anyone I can talk to or any route to take to speed things up.. I do not see another Ford or FPV gracing my driveways in the future.

Yer... it has been ages since I have seen all you guys! Would like to catch up with the old crew sometime.. Regarding the seats... I think if they had white stitching on the red leather, it'd look tacky... the Force range was about being purposeful yet subtly stylish. The F6 suits the contracting logo/stitching, but its not as subtle, in any respect lol!

Hi guys and girls! Just a quick one, I have started adding Dynamat to my parcel shelf and boot floor/walls etc.. I have progressed pretty far (almost done) with it today which is good, but this evening I went for a drive and found that my lights were doing silly things! When my headlights are set to 'Auto', they don't always work. When my headlights are set to 'On' they come on, but my dash/interior lights stay off; fog lights will not go on/off either. While my headlights are still set to 'On' if I turn the indicators left/right, the dash lights come on and the fog lights come on but all goes off again when I stop indicating. My rear (red) park lights are not on, but my brake lights still work if I brake. My first thought was I had done something wrong in the boot, shorted something out since I was playing around back there.. but I cant see how Dynamat would do this.. I double check the earth under the factory sub amp, that's all clear and clean, all the cables seem clean and nothing bare to short out onto the Dynamat. I am hoping it is the combination switch or clock spring or something that has gone and the timing was all a coincidence. I am a little reluctant to take it to Ford for warranty work until I am fairly certain I didn't stuff this up myself lol.. that'd be bloody embarrassing to have them say "There's ya problem!" while the point to my boot lol! Any ideas people?

How did you go with this problem? Did it turn out to be the switch itself? I ask as mine started doing it this very same combo this evening and I was playing around in the boot today with some dynamat.. not sure if I have accidently put some matting where I shouldn't have or its a coincidence my switch has given up the same day... Cheers -

Is this vid uploaded anywhere? This car sounds tough as...

The Force 6 looks absolutely awesome Adrian.. I'd love to see in the flesh one day! I like what you have done with the interior so far and I agree entirely that they should of come with the sunroof from factory.. Many people don't quite like the red leather seats over the standard black, but me personally... I love 'em!

First of, it is a common fault, yes. More importantly, it is a common fault on a lot of stock cars, not just modified ones.. Being modified (with big torque/power increases) would certainly help wear it out faster than usual. Does this mean you should not have it replaced under warranty? I'd think if your car has been modified for 30,000km then no.. sure, give it a go but don't be surprised when they say 'not under warranty". Having said that, you're yet to have it tuned, which makes me think it hasn't been modified for that long at all, in which case Id say the problem would have started prior to the bolt on intercooler or CAI. I have had mine replaced, no questions asked (luckily), well after I got my car modified. My modifications are subtle and I still use the stock exhaust tips etc so that it looks stock, but there is no way they drove it, played under the car and didn't notice it all lol.. I was lucky back then, but sadly I need another one soon. I would suggest you take the CAI off and even the cooler if its a easy swap, then get the car sorted at another dealership. If the cooler is too hard, leave it on but maybe at least take the CAI off..? The idea is to make them feel the car is under warranty, well looked after and not heavily modified. Some dealers will be tight, which sounds like the one you dealt with. Good luck.

They were also available in Deja Vu...

Sorry, I had meant to say 'trim' but was thinking skin earlier as I need to get a small dimple like dent removed prior to stick stuff on behind.. What is the best place to buy dynaliner/dynamat price wise guys? I see dynamat is on ebay but no dynaliner, damn.

What is the IDEAL product to put in the boot to cut out the road/exhaust noise? I am not trying to improve SQ or SPL etc How hard is it to remove the door skin?

I should add, now that I see you're located in Vic, if you are ever nearby Moorabbin go and drop by High-Tek Brakes and speak to Cam. He has been looking after me and my friends/family and many forum members for ages now, he is the only person I let touch my servicing/brakes/susp and I know I will always get no BS and great service and prices. High-Tek Brakes (Moorabbin, Vic) For the record, I am not affiliated with this workshop in anyway and receive no kick backs; just feel honest people with REAL knowledge and good service/prices deserve a mention in these cases. (Don't be scared by their Expensive Daewoo ute on the website, they love Fords and pay respect where it's due hehe) Cheers - Daniel.

1 - It seems about right, Ford or FPV are by no means cheap on parts or servicing.. 2 - For the money I'd have to say yes, there is certainly other options which could very well be noticeably better and possibly cheaper also. (Many of us use DBA rotors and some good suitable pads, there is a lot of choice out there though depending on performance/budget etc) 3 - I have not heard of non-Ford brake pads voiding your any of your new car warranty, however I can't say I am 100% on this as I haven't had to (luckily) attempt a claim warranty with my brakes. In the worst case scenario I could imagine, it would only void the calipers/rotors (which would be non ford and outperform theirs anyway) so I'd think its quite inconsequential. I recall paying ~1000 fitted for top of the line DBA5000 drilled & slotted rotors with alloy hat for the fronts on my F6; many people don't want drilled and are happy with slotted, so consider DBA4000 even.. Pads are a personal choice, I forget what they set me back, but it was very very cheap compared to Ford parts, again. On a side note, get your brakes checked at a decent brake place, Ford were telling me my fronts were shot over 3 service periods! I had taken them to independent places, measured them myself and they were still fine, within spec and stopping great. Funny how when I told Ford I wont be replacing them with their Ford gear, they didn't mention it again either!! I am not stupid or a cheap-arse, but I didn't want to throw away near enough to 20,000km worth of $$$$$ brakes lol........

As mentioned above, move power = more traction loss. If you are driving around in the wet and using WOT, I'd be inclined to think you're being ridiculous to think you will get anything BUT wheelspin and maybe an accident! With power comes responsibility ... ever heard that in ANY aspect of your life? It is great advice lol! As for what I have found, like the other guys and girls here: 1 - Upgrade tyers to soft compound which are designed for ultimate traction, this will trade off the longevity of them however and also cost more per tyer. 2 - Tune. When you get it tuned by your tuner, don't be afraid to tell your tuner to lower the boost spike they usually slot in around 3000-3500rpm. They will not lower your power output, but it will drive more strong from down low right to the top meaning you need WOT less often (quite rare actually come to think of it) and when you roll onto WOT, it wont instantly break traction as it hits that rev range and waste time, money, power, tyers etc.. Even ford have this mid range hit of power from stock(makes it feel crappy under this range, like turbo lag and also makes it a wow product when you get up it), so its no surprise people are used to stock power delivery, expect it to be this way. Also you will find many of our tuners keep it there for most 'general customers' as the know nothing, every day customer would think "why don't I get the same PUSH in the middle revs I got before" meaning they may feel they got ripped off or that the tuner has stuffed it up some how.. It really all depends on how much power your chasing and I'd say ~280rwkw is the top limit for a hard hitting mid range, from then up in the power ranks it must be liner (flat) to drive nicely. Don't worry, its still gonna blow others away who have their mid range spike lol! 3 - Throttle usage, when you/we start modifying these cars, it is no hidden secret that the cars performance will have a considerable jump, we're not talking 1995 where the cars could have 5k thrown at them and get nothing other than a nasty bill/surprise! How you drive the car should, will, must change! You will no longer be able to use the same throttle applications you were previously used to; be careful on excessive throttle changes and make sure you have the right gear at all times! The best way I can explain this is: each time you modify or tune the car, drive it the same way you did when you drove your very first high powered car (in this case I hope we are all sensible lol) A tune or a single mod, can make these cars drive entirely differently. 4 - Suspension. While its not a common thought, if you find you are having what you would think are severe traction problems and you have done the above, check out your suspension. Look for severely worn out shocks, mismatched parts for the car and its purpose (if you have changed things) and even check things like bushes and other suspension components. 5 - Rims, the size in diameter and also the width, allowing you to fit wider tyers (wider is better within sensible measures). 6 - Air pressure, now that you understand the tyers and the rims, make sure you are running the correct air pressure for your use! To be honest, I don't think there is one perfect pressure to tell you to use, its something that varies depending if you want long lasting tread, traction, good burn outs(if you do that), good handling, high speed, low speed... it all changes and varies with car and tyer size. This is something you will have to try out yourself and find your compromise. Keep in mind the higher the pressure, the more traction loss you will have. 7 - Steering I wasn't going to mention, but I had a flash back to a guy I used to know.. who used to complain of traction in his V8, but he used to accelerate using the same style mid corner as he would in a straight line! I'm sure most if not all of us know this, but do not think you can use WOT or similar throttle inputs in a corner (to pull out of the corner fast) as you would in a straight line or from a stop.. This will either just shread your tyers or spin you around if not careful. You want to be in the gear of choice to pull from the corner as you enter the corner and also have break before the corner, once you are in the corner and you and more importantly the car are ready to accelerate out, roll onto the throttle gently, don't kick it! The number of time I see cars swinging around corners or spinning 1 or 2 tyers are they try n pull away from me lol! I hope this was of some use for you and especially with your future mods, I don't think you have a chance in hell to reduce wheelspin if the above points don't at least help you... Cheers - Daniel.

I came from a Ford V8, 5.0L windsor in the Fairlane By Tickford... I miss the rumble at times, but I LOVE the whistle of the turbo when you get it tuned just as much! Without seeing anything on the market that grabs me, I feel a V8 Turbo would be my only swap, but show me one that is sold in this country from factory, aimed at normal people with a budget of some sort lol.

I would personally recommend Chris & Theo from BluePower Racing Developments or Mick at PitLane, but keep in mind that will be a good 2hr drive as you say.. Both of these shops have been great and I can honestly say after doing the rounds with many tuners in Melbourne, that these 2 know their stuff and have fantastic customer service. I have found BluePower to be fastidious with my car and this suited me and my car perfectly. They are also located closer to you in this case.

I use that combo with custom xforce back end for my own 'special requirements' lol.. Quality seems to be very good, better than most Xforce gear. Same deal with fitment, I have had a range of the Xforce stuff now and had no fitting issues, either I am lucky, my car is out of shape like their products (lol) or they have lifted their game in the past 3-18months.. As for power I'd say fine for up to 350-380rwkw, past that I cannot comment as I haven't the need/gear to support that.. I strongly doubt it is the weak link in my setup if I wanted to up the power however lol. More the stock pipes to keep my 'stealthy' stock appearance that would get the flick!

OK, I wasn't aware the plastic body coloured cover had to be removed to access it; cheers for the word of advice!

Anyone???????????

Hey guys; some twit has hit my passenger side mirror and luckily it only smashed the glass part, the mirror itself.. I have a new one in the mail from FTG auto salvage and just went to know if their is an easy way to the the mirror out of the casing as I cant see any way other than to rip it out which I don't wish to do, yet haha. Any tricks or tips?

pm sent

It is about to get a bit of work done on it, but even with that in mind many people think I'm nuts to do so as it isn't noticeable to anyone but me... as usual hey! I wanna get some new shots after I give it a good detail and its getting exhaust swapped and tune/service thurs.. lucky car gets all my $$$. In the meantime, here are few shots which I have taken not too long ago on the fly during some cruises on my boring holidays.

Man, this thread is a blast from (my) past.. It was total coincidence I stumbled over it just now haha! I should whack up some updated pics of it now, it has had a few bits tweaked :D

Be interesting to see them in person... I remember looking at mine on there thinking "that's looks ordinary at best; might go find one in the flesh to get the real deal" Why cant they show us nice photos of REAL models in the REAL colours in the site; it is not impossible. How annoying I found that site to help aid with colour choice at time of purchase! lol

From cold start mine will sit at 1000rpm. After a few min driving it will sit at 600rpm. Stock it sat at 1100/750 in the above conditions. I also think you should check and clean your throttle body with proper throttle body cleaner.

How can I approach my dealer or what should I say this time? Like I said, they clearly told me that "squeaks or even some rattles that require lubrication are not covered under warranty".. I agree that it shouldn't be, I drive a few different BF models, the pov spec ones don't have this so why should FPV lol.. Then again, if they say ok to warranty and that means I need to pay them for a replacement car again as they always take ages to do work inevitably costing me $$$.