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Found 7 results

  1. Hi All, I'm new here so go easy, and I'm hoping this can help! I just wanted to share some stuff on here as I had one hell of a time finding it out for myself. After hours of searching and much experimenting with my own FGX G6E I have finally got the Sync 2 Stereo in my FGX sounding right, and this was no easy task. Honestly even after changing all the speakers to quality splits, it souded like they all had pillows in front of them and the louder I turned up the volume, the worse this got. Something had to be done! I'm not going to go into the install of the components but more along the lines of what As-Built Settings you need to change to get your custom speaker/Amp/sub install sounding as it should. You can in fact re-program the Sync 2 to give you Preset Equaliser options, and you can re-program the Audio Control Module (ACM) to output line out levels (RCA +4Volts) from the speaker wires, not only this but you can also re-program the ACM to give you a flat unprocessed output from 20-20000hz and I'll explain why this is important shortly. I have a G6ET which is fitted with the premium audio, and although I haven't tried these mods on any other FGX vehicles, I reckon there is a good chance they will work on all of them. Anyway for me I have purchased a monoblock amp replaced the sub in the rear parcel shelf, changed the speakers and have them running off of a 4 channel amp. The Sub amp gets its signal from the front speaker cables. For those interested the Speaker cables in the front kick panels are the same colour coding as the FG MK2 (which I owned previously also) Right Front: Grey/Green (Neg-) & Grey/Black (Pos+) Right Rear: Blue/Red (Neg+) & Blue Black(Pos+) Left Front: Orange/Light Green (Neg-) & Orange/Black (Pos+) Left Rear: Pink/Green (Neg-) & Pink/Black (Pos+) Once you are wired up you will need to use FORscan(software on Win10) and an OBDLink MX adaptor (tool which plugs into you OBD port) to change the following AS-Built data (sorry you'll have work out this bit for yourself) To Get the Preset Equaliser Options in Sync 2 you will need to change the following; Select the APIM Module, and change the value of the large X to 8. 7D0-01-02 xxxx xXxx xxxx - Enables Preset EQ 0 (Disabled - Default) 8 (Enabled) My original string looked like this 7D0-01-02 0420 0200 0000 With the Preset Equaliser Enabled it looks like this 7D0-01-02 0420 0800 0000 Once Written, Sync will reset itself and the Preset EQ settings should appear. To Disable Factory EQ Processing (This does not affect the BASS/MID/TREB control or the Preset EQs they will still work, this only effects what the ACM does after all of that) The Factory EQ processing that the ACM changes are the Bass and Treble frequencies, it effectively 'rolls them off' as you turn the volume up and that's why the louder it goes the worse it sounds (even with all new amps and speakers) I believe Ford use this fuction to stop your average Motorist from blowing up their crappy factory speakers whilst turning up there favourite tracks. *Prior to doing this modification, turn your volume down* Select the ACM Module and change the values as follows 727-01-02 xXxx - Disables Factory EQ Processing 1 (Enabled - Default) 0 (Disabled) My original string looked like this 727-01-02 0132 With the factory EQ processing disable it looks like this 727-01-02 0032 Once this is written and you cycle the car off/on you will notice a big difference in the sound, especially as you turn the volume up. It will also be alot louder so make sure all your gains on your amps are down as wellyou should now have a clear and unprocessed signal going to your speaker wires (still at speaker level output voltages) In theory you could just have aftermarket speakers connected to the head unit without any amps and they should sound much better, but I have not tried this so proceed with caution. To Change the ACM output Voltage From factory to drive the speakers I believe this comes out at up to about +8V (controlled by the volume control) on the speaker wires as listed above, to be clear, this doesn't magically give you RCA output and bypass the existing amplifier, it only changes the output voltage, so you wouldn't have to use a Speaker Level to RCA level converter to connect to the RCA inputs on your aftermarket amplifier. it also helps avoid 'potential' signal clipping, which once amplified can destroy speakers. Select the ACM Module and change the following values 727-01-01 xxXx xxxx xxxx - Enables Line Level Output 0 (Disabled - Default) 5 (Enabled) My original string looked like this 727-01-01 9E01 1800 806E With the line level output enabled 727-01-01 9E51 1800 806E So you could now hook up your RCA plugs to you speaker wires! always remember to turn down all your volumes/gains prior to trying some music. Your volume control will work as normal. If you are not happy you can just put your old values back in and re-write them to the modules as discussed, Please Make shure you save your factory values before proceeding with these Mods. Hopefully this helps and offers hope to some of you who like myself think the Ford Premium Audio Systems are just not up to scratch (lucky they are so good to drive!)
  2. Hi all, I am interested in installing a sub and amp while retaining everything else stock (head unit, speakers) what would be the simplest way to install these in the boot, I am usto slapping an after market head unit in running the rca's down one side of the car and the power wire down the other hooking up the remote wire and basicaly done.. dose the STD head unit have the rca's output at the rear? if not how would I go about this? Thanks for the advise in advance...
  3. My original idea was to have 2 10" subs behind each seat with the amp in the middle but that soon changed when I went to bunnings and they told me they were unable to cut the big sheet of MDF for me, so ended up getting the smaller sheet which was half the size but only $5 cheaper, I got home and re did my box design for a single 10" in the middle of the seats and the amp sitting behind drivers seat and fabbed it up that night. The Amplifier I'm using is a Fusion EN-3004 and the Sub is Sony Xplod XS-L1035. The next day I went to Jaycar and got everything for the wiring, - 5m 8G Power wire - High Low converter - Fuse Holder - 10m Roll 7.5A Power cable Power wiring for the amp is as follows: Positive is run directly from the battery with its fuse just behind the fuse box then run through the clutch cable grommet in the fire wall down under the kick panel and up to the rear speaker then into the Amplifier. Ground is run to the same grounding point as the rear window de-mister. Remote is wired to the cigarette lighter. The High Low converter converts the speaker signal back into a RCA connection making it possible to plug into the amp, it was fairly simple to wire up, Just make sure all your polarities are correct otherwise you will run into problems. I haven't had any problems with it yet at all, apart from the neighbours telling me to turn it off
  4. Hi all, I am new to this forum and was wondering if someone with experience could help me out. I have a few things I am planning on doing to my 2007 BF XR6: 1. Install an aftermarket head unit (I have purchased this: JVC Mechless Bluetooth/iPod/MP3 Player) (I have also bought this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/260737641682) 2. Replace all factory speakers (I have purchased this: Fusion 6" 2 Way Speakers (Note: I have bought the converter and not sure if I should buy another pair of these or the same brand but factory sized speakers) 3. Install a subwoofer and amplifier (It is a sub and amp combo: Economy Active 12" Subwoofer) (Needs 10 gauge wire) Could someone people help me out in terms of how I should go abouts connecting the headunit. I have been searching and searching all day tbh. Then some information/guide on how it all connects and works :/ Many thanks!!! (Merry Christmas)
  5. Hey guys.. Just a quickie.....Is it worth the money Dynamating the front doors in a BF Ute. I do have a set of MB Quartz splits with a 10" sub in the back tray. I've heard people say it makes a huge difference. What is this difference they're refering to.
  6. I have a very standard 2009 FG XR6T Ute and want to add an underseat Subwoofer. I do not want or need bone crushing Bass but looking for better sound with greater range. Has any one fitted one of these? What Brands do you recommend? Any decent installers northside of Brisbane? Are major changes needed to the wiring etc to get this working? Thanks All
  7. Well I finally finished the install of my system into the ute....and absolutely blown away.. I went with the Audison Bit Ten processor and yeah they make a good product. I have a little bit of noise when the head unit is set at zero but once it's up...mind blowing crystal clear sound!!! I considered getting it installed by a shop but after quotes in the $1800 vicinity I ended up doing whole system myself Basically done my research, planned the build (routing of wires etc), I manufactured a custom sub Enclosure to house the 2 12"s behind the seats/ Amplifiers in the cab of the ute and installed the processor etc. The sound stage in the ute is mind blowing (and that's with the 'out of the box firmware' operating the system...haven't got around to updating the software on it with the laptop yet!!). The install turned out beautiful....pain in the a*s at times but the end result was worth every bit. No cut corners, no body mods or drilling required at all to the car, looks completely stealthy in every way (umm until you see the amplifiers and 2 subs aimed at your seats!!! and the sound quality is like driving around in a sound studio!! The two 12's hitting the seats is simply lethal with zero distortion, a snare sounds like a snare, guitar sounds like a guitar...I can't help but now drive the long way home!!! hahaha I've since pulled up alongside other FG and SS utes and they spinout that the Bass is coming from an FG!! Heres some pics!!
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