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  • Member
  • Member For: 12y 7m 30d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: near brisbane
Posted

bf1acb80450f4d5b0ae18827d0515024.jpg71e1b238b47ee7014433b24c97a9443a.jpg657f1ea93f4022b184301009e0302167.jpg14725d5a56fcf34ef2049462387e6cbf.jpgjust that is 365 dollars . The guy at pirtec said that that braded hose is better than the non teflon speed flow one . Its $50 a metre .707ac159eb21861fa2e644a52e779941.jpg9ddfe6710cdd534b3492fed1d904e2b4.jpgjust to show if you use a fg manifold and dump pipe that you have to relocate the senser up higher or it is to close to the car body and might rub through the wires .2e0fe88d336177cac52c0de4ee3ddd6a.jpgthe machine shop I took the dump pipe to said that they can not clamp it in there machine to face the surface for me .they recomended to file it flat my self .

 

Sorry there are some parts still missing that they could not supply .so less than 360 dollars

  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 4m 2d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Central Queensland
Posted

That teflon hose is a pain in the arse. You'll have mega fun installing the fittings. 

  • Like 1
  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 4m 2d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Central Queensland
Posted (edited)

The teflon in that style of hose is slightly thicker and touch stiffer than the Speedflow. This makes it difficult to get the fitting to slide down the hose. 

Here are some tips for you......

1. When you install the collar, you have to remove the protruding edge on the inside. You'll know what I mean when you go to do it. I did this by inserting a blade of a pair of scissors and turning it.

2. Place the hose through the vertical slot in a set of Speedflow alloy vice jaws and close them until the tapered section of the collar contact the jaws. Whatever you do, do not clamp the hose... Get a straight fitting and remove the square edge from the section that goes into the collar. Lubricate the section after doing this and then insert the fitting  into the hose and tap it with a piece of timber ( Or use a hammer on the timber). This is required as it takes some force to get the fitting to slide into the hose/collar.  Do this for all of the hose sections that requires fittings and simply pull the straight fittng out and replace with a bend if required. They come out relatively easy....

Good luck... Not that you'll need it...

Edited by HI PSI
Typo.....
  • Like 1
  • Dropping a turd
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 18y 11m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth
Posted

I only use push on fittings and hose these days.  So easy.  Built plenty of braided ends and it can be a pain in the ass

  • Like 1
  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 21y 4d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth
Posted

I hate repeat HATE braided hose. I've built (literally) thousands of hoses over the years and getting stabbed by an exposed piece of braid is the devil. But I'm yet to find a rubber liner cloth/nylon hose that stands up over time. Current fuels system is a mix of Speed Flow and Aeroflow 400sr hose and it's all cracked and brittle after two years on E85. Once I park the F6 up for the winter I'll be replacing it all with Speedflow 100 series.

  • Like 1
  • Dropping a turd
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 18y 11m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth
Posted

Rubber/ compersite is fine for oil

  • Like 1
  • Member
  • Member For: 12y 11m 28d
Posted

Teflon FTW. Mine has been on e85 for 2 years constant and the hose is still in perfect condition bends freely. Everyone of my mates with normal rubber braid has split and broke after 1 year of being assembled. Also needed the Teflon for when I do a methanol tune rubber just dies with methanol to quick.

  • Like 1
  • Member
  • Member For: 12y 7m 30d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: near brisbane
Posted

This hose is only for the engine oil cooler .ihave ordered 6 metres for the trans cooler abd a lot of fittings for them .sounds like a lot of work . I had a lot of problems getting the original fittings of the existing line

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