Dba 4000 Rotors

[Maximus]

Finally got around to organising them to get done.

Pedders in Ftg are going to do them. 1hr labour to fit...... Cant go wrong!

Sure beats doing them myself.

Thanks for the input.

JR

[Gussa]

I think I will try T2's Front and back.

DBA504S Fronts with Bendix DB1473 Ultimate Pads

DBA505S Rear with Bendix DB1675 Ultimate Pads

Two questions from watching the tutorial posted above;

- What are the torque settings for stock FG turbo calipers front and rear?

- Does anyone know roughly what size hose for the bleed screw for brake fluid? (planning to go to repco after work).

[PAH]

Hi Guys,

Have you tried the anti squeal compounds on the BACKS of your brake pads to shut them up?

Check out Supercheap and search for a Dyna Grip product known as Disc Brake Squeal Free. I'd paste the URL but NOTHING I can do here will allow me to paste text into this window.

PAH

Edited 08/07/14 05:24 AM by PAH

[EvilDaifu]

I just put on the dba4000 T3 slotted rotors today. I almost got the T2's by mistake. The T3's cost more but I wanted the higher temperature rated rotors and I don't change them very often (had my old dba4000 slotted rotors on since about July 2009 - about 6 years ago - lost 1 mm over that time through wear and machining).

Here are some photos of my new dba4000 T3 slotted rotors.
http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/86564-akebono-brake-pads/?p=1434910

[hopper8]

Question regarding the temperature - coded paint--does it permanently change colour after its been 'triggered'?? Or is it only white during the time it is above the threshold temperature??

To illustrate - do I need to pull over halfway through my run to check the paint, or will the paint permanently change colour for me to check when I'm home?

[Puffwagon]

The colour change is permanent.

 

There is no way that you could pull over and check the temp accurately. The brakes will be glowing red under braking and will cool off quick as buggery when you aren't using them. 

 

You could cable tie a temp gun to a control arm or whatever and record the highest temp that way. 

 

Use 4 temp guns, disassemble, lengthen wiring, install digital readout screens in the cabin and boom...home made, instant readout and update, brake temp kit.

 

Cos I'm bored, work out the voltage of the output and datalog your brake temps for sh*ts and giggles.

 

But yeah, I just checked mine and they had all changed colour so it looks like I'll be doing a pad upgrade at some stage. 

 

#nicemine

[hopper8]

Thanks Puffster! I'm not wound up about knowing the 'actual temp' of them - don't really care. I just don't want to end up past the max temp the rotors are meant for (like yours ). I'm quite surprised mine didn't change colour, I gave them a fair caning last night. I'll have to try harder I guess

Still didn't quite avoid fade eventually, but I haven't got up to doing fluid yet so I think that'll fix the last of my brake issues!

[Puffwagon]

Haha I was more thinking out aloud about measuring the brake temps.

I took my car to the Mallala circuit a while back so they managed to get pretty hot. Even though I wasn't giving it 100% they still faded out after about 4 laps or so.

I did a fluid change and holy crap was the old stuff in poor shape. I posted about it on the "what did you do to your car today" thread.

[hopper8]

Ahh I see!! 4 running laps is pretty good for such little brakes, I'd be fine with that.

Was the fluid ruined by running at Mallala?? Or did you run at Mallala with dead fluid and that's what made them fade? (probably being thick but can't figure out what you're saying )

[Puffwagon]

The car is/was my daily so I take a bit of care with it even when thrashing it. I probably only gave it one lap at full steam (on the brakes) and then backed off a bit. Lol the brakes were new and I didn't want to destroy them in one day! It wouldn't have helped that it was summer time either.

 

The fluid would have already been stuffed. I changed it a while after I went to the track iirc. First track day and all, I'll be more organised next time