Jump to content

PAH

Donating Members
  • Posts

    361
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by PAH

  1. Guys. Anybody need a rear bumper for a FG XR6T 2008? Free to a good home. Or best offer in excess of $0. The part needs to be picked up. It's not heavy but difficult to fit into an A4 envelope (or Aust Post box). I fitted it into my XR6T when I collected it from the Ford Dealer. PAH
  2. Guys, I sold the Repco axles to HOTXR6T. Thanks for buying them mate! I am keen to sell the brand new FG XR6T rear bumper. Brand new in Ford plastic wrap. Offer me silly money. If I don't sell it I'll try to sell it to my local Paint Touchup Guy for even sillier money. And I'm happy to let the Snow Water Injection go for a bargain basement price. PAH
  3. Oops. One more part I forgot to list . . . The Factory OEM turbo. It did 80,000 before I upgraded to a GTX3520. It was running perfectly when I upgraded to the GTX3520. It's been lubricated by Mobil 1 apart from the Ford first service oil. Feel free to make an offer There's a part I'm keen to sell. It's the FG rear bumper. Brand New in Plastic Wrapper. Handy to have as a spare if you back into a sharp object. It might save having to make an insurance claim. Again, feel free to make an offer. PAH
  4. Joncitizen. I am in western Sydney. The Hills district. PAH
  5. Hi Guys, I let that one slip through the cracks!! Sorry about that. I've attached a pic (belatedly) as promised. As you can see, the FG XR6T was Dash Green. I wanted a blue FG XR6T and there was one available in early 2009 but it was an auto . . . and I wanted a manual. I should have bought an auto XR6T but I found that out too late. The FG XR6T auto is quicker, has no rollover noise, and has no transmission backlash. But I have no doubt that I'd have felt the urge to upgrade the rear end bushes to urethane if I'd bought the auto. My new 2019 Kia Stinger V6 has almost 6,000 kms on the clock. I can smell glycol coolant smell in the car but there's NO sign of fluid loss or puddles anywhere. I plan to raise the issue with Kia at the 12 months service. This glycol smell seems to be a issue that is well known enough to rate a mention on the internet. If you take one for a test drive, see if you can smell glycol. https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/kia-stinger-heater-core-leak/ https://www.kiastinger.org/threads/do-you-smell-coolant-around-your-car-warranty-bad-mechanics-diy.3482/ Apart from that, the car has more than enough grunt to keep me happy. Kia claims 0-100 kms in 4.9 secs. But they may have used a 30 kg jockey as the pilot.
  6. Puffwagon, The PN is 20001.
  7. Guys, I have the following FG XR6T parts for sale: * Rear axle shafts. Brand New in Boxes. Repco. Make an offer. * FG XR6T rear bumper. Genuine Ford. Brand New in Plastic. Make an offer. * FG XR6T mag wheel (silver) and new tyre. Cost $600. Sell for $300. * Snow Water Injection Kit. Brand New in Box. Make an offer. * Air Filters (4). Genuine Ford XR6T. Brand New in Boxes. Make an offer. * Oil Filters (2). Genuine Ford XR6T. Brand New in Boxes. Make an offer. PAH. PM me please. Or
  8. K31TH, Yes there's a part of me that wanted to keep the XR6T. It's an Aussie Icon. It went well. If I'd found a way to iron out the few irritating bugs I might have kept it. I'll use the new URL to make a donation and advertise my XR6T bits on the forum. I'll dig out some Stinger pics too. PAH
  9. Hi Guys, My FG XR6T was 11 year years old and it it was giving me some grief in a couple of areas so I decided to jack it up and run a Kia Stinger underneath as a fix. Stinger Pro's: No driveline shunt. No transmission rollover noise. Kia Customer Care! 6.8L/100kms on the Hume to Melbourne. Runs on 91 RON (but I use 95 RON). 7 year warranty. 0-100 in 4.9 secs (fast enough for me). Can't set the auto to default to Sports Mode (and I do not use the manual paddles behind the wheel). Stinger Annoyances: Invasive automated controls such as Smart (Dumb in my book) Cruise Control. Automated intermittent wipers set their own speed (and end up running flat out for drizzle). Less roomy for back seat passengers. Back window is small limiting rear view. It's a V6 twin turbo not a V8 twin turbo. I'm not a fan of V6's. I'd rather Kia spent their $ on two more cylinders rather than counter-balance shafts but the engine is very smooth. I've got some FG XR6T bits for sale. I just tried to donate so I can advertise them on this site. I hit a snag. I notified Keith. Hope to donate soon and advertise. Items include rear bumper (BNIB), Repco rear drive shafts (BNIB), Factory mag wheel and tyre with 90% tread. PAH
  10. Thanks Keith, I haven't tried the earth to the PCM bracket yet. I can't see how an extended run would impact upon earthing issues but it'll cost me nothing to add one more short length of earth cable so I'll give it a try. And see if anybody recommends a good auto elec in Western Sydney - just in case one more earth doesn't help. PAH
  11. Guys, As I've been poking around for the cause of Battery Fail Warning and a stalling issue I found this Youtube: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=S7QFEVWShvc  It shows how the wires feeding to the indicator stalk are sheered off inside the steering column. The car is a BF. The video might help members with a blank dashboard. I might take the steering column cover off my FG just to double check that all is OK. If this problem has afflicted my car, I'm not sure that it'd cause a Battery Fail error but it's worth a check. Any thoughts? PAH
  12. Thanks K31TH. I limited the cleaner to the throttle body. Just wondering what happens after it's sucked through the engine and tasted by the oxy sensor. NIZPRO told me not to use fuel injector cleaner because it poisons the oxy sensor so I'm wondering about the throttle body cleaner. After I added the extra earth cables the can ran well on short trips. I've since taken it for a 2hr drive and the Batt Fail and stalling issue is still there after so I am looking for other issues. AND ALL EARS if anybody has any suggestions. I had a poke around the net and found this Youtube video that shows how the factory wires in the steering column tend to sheer off in BFs. It might be an issue in FGs too?: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=S7QFEVWShvc  Just in case I need one after I exhaust all avenues can anybody recommend an auto electrician who has experience with FG Falcons?
  13. Guys, I cleaned the throttle body. It wasn't quite as black as the La Brea Tar Pits but it wasn't much better. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Brea_Tar_Pits. I also added one earth from Battery Neg to the inlet manifold. It looks like that's cured the Battery Fail warning lights on the dashboard and the idle is a lot more stable. After adding only the one extra earth cable the car has stalled once at a red light with the engine at idle. I've just added another earth and hope that this totally nails the issue. With the one earth, the improvement is significant. I ran the second earth from Battery Neg to the fuse box earth. It's connected to a hole in the (painted) inner guard so I'm wondering if that's the poor earth point? It'd be nice to know where the factory earth is failing so it could be fixed at the source. Thanks heaps for this thread. Very helpful! And I now know to clean the throttle body every 20k or so. PAH PS: I've been told that injector cleaner kills oxy sensors so I don't use it any more. Does Throttle Body Cleaner kill oxy sensors?
  14. Guys, If your fixes above work, you're worth your weight in platinum recovered from restrictive factory cataclysmic convertors. I'm off on a mission to give your suggestions a go. What you're suggesting sounds easy enough to do. The stalling issue described above is pretty much an exact description of the very irritating problem that I've endured for the last year or more. I should have checked the forum for a solution earlier. I'll let you know how I go. PAH
  15. Thanks Keith, I should have checked Trump's Twitter reports for FAKE GNUS?? It good that we're reminded not to light them up in a location where we might get done. It's not hard to spin them up especially not if the ESC is off. Whoever the guy was in the blue Falcon, it might have been difficult to spot a uniformed cop amongst all that BLUE smoke? I'm guessing that the judge wouldnt factor that if a cop had been knocked?? PAH
  16. Guys, Who saw the blue tyre smoke signals on last night's TV news? Is the driver a forum member? PAH
  17. Guys, This looks interesting: https://www.goauto.com.au/news/toyota/toyota-backs-hydrogen-economy/2019-03-20/78082.html An electric car without expensive batteries that tend to wear out in circa 10 years could be a nice way to go. What about an electric motor on each wheel to enable torque vectoring that aids cornering? Such a car would be quick. What about solar systems on our home rooftops that generate free hydrogen? But I guess we'd have to put baseball cards in the spoke to ensure that bike riders, Greenies and the PC are able to hear us coming in our whisper quiet electric car? How about sub woofers to play a V8 or V12 soundtrack? PAH
  18. Guys, Check this out: https://www.motoring.com.au/motorsport-mustang-supercar-to-be-slowed-117532/ PAH
  19. Guys, It's good to see Dick Johnson's Car 17 doing so well at the moment. He's given the sport good support over the years. Why is the Mustang going so well? I am guessing that it has to be the same mass as the Commodore - correct? So why is it cleaning up the ZB Commodes? Does the Mustang cut the through air with less drag? Or has the Mustang been given too much wing and front spoiler? I know the arguments for NASCAR style racing rather than the Improved Production formula that we used to have back in the 1980's, but I wish we could revert to something like the 1980's formula. Look at what going on now: * It looks like they've massaged the Mustang roof to make it fit over the standard roll cage. Correct? Did they have to shorten the VF wheelbase? * The ZB Commode racer is a V8 RWD whereas the best ZB street car is an east-west V6 with the addition of a drive system to the rear wheels. * The Nissan racer is a V8 RWD whereas the best Nissan street car is an east-west V6 with FWD. * The fact that Supercar racing is a "parity sport" means that the Mustang might be adjusted to slow it down. Where's the parity for the Nissan? * None of the current race cars use the engine or drivetrains fitted to our street cars. * The cars we see selling for hundreds of thousands of dollars today (GTHOs XU-1s, 350 Monaros etc) pull big $ because Bathurst made them famous. That's not happening any more because there's no link between our street cars and the cars we see at Bathurst. But back to my first questions: Why is the Mustang going so well? Is it has the same mass as the Commodore? Does the Mustang cut the through air with less drag? Does the Mustang have too much wing? The rear wing looks enormous. PAH
  20. Are there CV joints in the rear axles? Are they capable of causing vibration when they wear?
  21. Guys: A bit more. A standard 21 watt should pull 1.75 amps. I = P/V. I = 21/12 = 1.75 amps. If the resistor above is 6 Ohms then it will pull 2 amps which is MORE current than than a standard 21 watt light globe. Why does it need to? I could be wrong here, but it's my guess that the objective is to get the TOTAL load (resistor and LED) to pull the same current as a standard 21 watt globe so that the Cruise Control recognises the current draw as a brake pedal application. If we have any auto elecs in the forum please jump in here to set me straight if I am wrong. I suspect that it is a 6 Ohm resistor. It looks a bit like these: https://www.amazon.com/4Pcs-Aaron-6ohm-Load-Resistors/dp/B00L4V9ECY/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?hvadid=295431745346&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=2840&hvnetw=s&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=b&hvrand=5047983431389191575&hvtargid=kwd-396652719788&keywords=6+ohm+50w+led+load+resistors&qid=1552688817&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&tag=googhydr-20&psc=1 And this web site includes this info: "4Pcs Aaron 50W 6ohm Load Resistors - Fix LED Bulb Fast Hyper Flash Turn Signal Blink Error Code (Resistors get very hot during working)". A 10 watt LED globe should pull around 0.8 amps ( I = P / V I = 10/12 = 0.8). And this means (if my maths and logic are correct) then the LED should be around 15 Ohms and another 15 ohms should bump current draw to that of a standard light globe. If you have purchased LED globes and you do not know how much current they pull you can measure this with a cheap Digital Multi Meter from Jaycar: https://www.jaycar.com.au/low-cost-digital-multimeter-dmm/p/QM1500 There is a critical issue here. When measuring current (amps) the DMM MUST be connected in series with the LED light globe NOT across the globe. If you're not sure of this don't even try. The DMM can blow up if you strap it across a power supply ... if it doesn't have a fuse. Once you know the current flowing through your DMM you can calculate power. Assume 0.5 amps flowing through the LED. Power = Volts x Amps. Power = 12 volts x 0.5 amps = 6 watts. That's less than a third of the current drawn by a standard globe. And (I am guessing that) 6 watts may not been seen by the Cruise Control as a brake pedal application. You can do your own maths to calculate the value of a parallel resistor required to pull the same current as a standard 21 watt globe that pulls 1.75 amps.
  22. Panda Eyes, Thanks for the info. Is that a 6 Ohm resistor in your photo? If so: I = V/R. = 12 /6 = 2 amps. The guy at Ledshoponline has advised me to use a 5000 Ohm resistor which would pull only 3mA (3/1000 of an amp). I can't see such a high value resistor getting hot. He also says his LED globes have been stacked with plenty of LEDs to maximise current flow. They pull 10 watts. But this is still less than the standard globe that pulls 21 watts. I dare say he is specifying a 5000 Ohm resistor for his LED globes to increase the current draw enough to trip the Cruise Control when the brake pedal is tapped. IF I need to add the 5000 Ohm resistor I don't plan to whack it across the tail light - just the brake light. I am guessing that it's only the brake light that triggers Cruise Control deactivation. And so I am hoping that I don't have any dramas with nightime-daytime brightness on the dashboard. Admin: I'm waiting for the LED lobes to arrive in the post mate. If I'm lucky they will work OK without any fiddling around. https://www.ledshoponline.com.au/
  23. Admin, Yeah fair point. If the axles aren't the problem then it's preventative maintenance. I'll keep the originals as spares. What's the life expectancy for axles? My FG is coming up to 130k. PAH
  24. K31TH, I = V/R. Current = 12 / 4700. Current is a tad less than 3mA. The resistors I'm looking at are rated at 5 watts. 12 x 0.003 = 0.036 watts which is way less than the 5 watt max. I'm hoping that they don't run hot. If I'm lucky the brake pedal will continue to trip the cruise control after I install the LED brake lights. If not I'll try the resistors at 48 cents each (not $40 for the Error Canceller). The guy from ledshoponline says that their globes are packed with plenty of LEDs to ensure that they pull 10 watts in an effort to overcome the issue with the cruise control. I have zero interest in bling so I'd continue to use standard globes if they'd last. I'm told that it's voltage spikes that causes globes to blow. I'd link to know what causes the voltage spikes. And I'd like to know why it's ALWAYS the LEFT globe that blows. Ledshoponline advertises that its globes are also OK in 24 volt circuits so I'm hoping that that makes them more resistant to voltage spikes. PAH
  25. That's a shame. Somebody let's know if there's a wrecker that looks after forum members. PAH
×
  • Create New...
'