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Found 4 results

  1. Hi all, I am interested in installing a sub and amp while retaining everything else stock (head unit, speakers) what would be the simplest way to install these in the boot, I am usto slapping an after market head unit in running the rca's down one side of the car and the power wire down the other hooking up the remote wire and basicaly done.. dose the STD head unit have the rca's output at the rear? if not how would I go about this? Thanks for the advise in advance...
  2. Iv recently installed a Deceptor Pro Bov on my FG Turbo ute. The Deceptor Pro is a bigger unit than most blow off valves due to the electronic mechanism, so its not a simple swap as it gets squashed between the motor and bonnet. I've done my install with a Turbo side intake so there's more room to work with than the stock air system. However someone else has done this install with a stock air system already back in 2009 so search the Blow off valve workshop for "Deceptor Pro" & you'll find that one. There are over 100 listings for different Deceptor Pro models. Some of them have special flanges for special vehicle and others have different inlet & outlet sizes. I got one with a 25mm inlet & 25mm outlet. for $436 off ebay. I then got an Aeroflow 90degree 32mm to 25mm reducer elbow also from eBay for $18. The factory piping has a reducer coming straight off the intercooler piping. This is where the elbow reducer goes, I cut the 32mm end down to half its length to fit. The factory spring clamps are easiest dealt with using a pair of locking pliers and are reused. The dip stick need to be slightly bent back to clear the trumpet. Then cut the airbox return pipe a bit shorter to suit. I also shortened the crank case air line to make the pipes all neat. The air enters at the bottom of the valve and the 2 on the sides are the outlets. It doesnt matter which outlet is used to vent or recirculate so I swapped them around to angle the trumpet downwards. I also undone the 4 allen bolts and rotated the manifolt nipple 180derees. The intake manifold hose is a perfect size and fits snugly on the nipple. I then found my mounting spot for the dial along with all my other gizmos. Wired the red & black wires to the back of the cigarette lighter. It draws minimal power and the lighter socket is ignition switched. Hardest part was getting the wiring into the engine bay. Loom wasn't long enough to go via behind the drivers side wheel so I poked a hole in a grommet using a coat hanger right next to the clutch hoses and then stretched it open wider with long nose pliers. (easy if you've got a auto.) I ran the wiring along the back of the engine bay along a hose squeezing it in the factory clips. Excess wiring was tied up & tucked under the center console. The loom is sleeved but the 20ish cm on the valve is not. I happened to have sleeving from my computer modding days so I neatened up that bit of wiring. I also purchased a blanking plug and another 25mm outlet. The blanking plug is so instead of adjustable vent, I can do adjustable dose. And the extra outlet is if I want to hide the venting trumpet deeper in the engine bay with some extra piping as cop camouflage. I could also plumb it as a dose/vent adjustment with no option for recirculation. Trumpet: Dose Plug: Read the instructions on adjusting the valve spring tension. Just go for a lap around the block listening to it, adjust it, rinse & repeat till your happy. Installed it just in time for the local charity cruise. My mate did a poor job filming but the kids reaction was the best!
  3. My original idea was to have 2 10" subs behind each seat with the amp in the middle but that soon changed when I went to bunnings and they told me they were unable to cut the big sheet of MDF for me, so ended up getting the smaller sheet which was half the size but only $5 cheaper, I got home and re did my box design for a single 10" in the middle of the seats and the amp sitting behind drivers seat and fabbed it up that night. The Amplifier I'm using is a Fusion EN-3004 and the Sub is Sony Xplod XS-L1035. The next day I went to Jaycar and got everything for the wiring, - 5m 8G Power wire - High Low converter - Fuse Holder - 10m Roll 7.5A Power cable Power wiring for the amp is as follows: Positive is run directly from the battery with its fuse just behind the fuse box then run through the clutch cable grommet in the fire wall down under the kick panel and up to the rear speaker then into the Amplifier. Ground is run to the same grounding point as the rear window de-mister. Remote is wired to the cigarette lighter. The High Low converter converts the speaker signal back into a RCA connection making it possible to plug into the amp, it was fairly simple to wire up, Just make sure all your polarities are correct otherwise you will run into problems. I haven't had any problems with it yet at all, apart from the neighbours telling me to turn it off
  4. Hi all, I am new to this forum and was wondering if someone with experience could help me out. I have a few things I am planning on doing to my 2007 BF XR6: 1. Install an aftermarket head unit (I have purchased this: JVC Mechless Bluetooth/iPod/MP3 Player) (I have also bought this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/260737641682) 2. Replace all factory speakers (I have purchased this: Fusion 6" 2 Way Speakers (Note: I have bought the converter and not sure if I should buy another pair of these or the same brand but factory sized speakers) 3. Install a subwoofer and amplifier (It is a sub and amp combo: Economy Active 12" Subwoofer) (Needs 10 gauge wire) Could someone people help me out in terms of how I should go abouts connecting the headunit. I have been searching and searching all day tbh. Then some information/guide on how it all connects and works :/ Many thanks!!! (Merry Christmas)
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