Puffwagon

Lol there are plenty of genuine stock or aussie assembled and balanced rebuilt cores available to repair/rebuild a turbo. While actual genuine rebuild "parts" may not be supported as such you won't be in the position of being forced into upgrading any time soon. There is also plenty of aftermarket cores that can be used after double checking the build and balance on them when they arrive from overseas. The reason you should upgrade is because repairing/rebuilding a stock turbo already cost around half the price of a new upgrade. Why not go all out and swap the manifold etc and get a proper turbo?!

0:45 seconds in, I'm Rick James bitch!

You're welcome and I was just logged in as you. I should have fixed the forum while I had the chance aye?

Oh I thought you rebuilt it, my bad. It makes sense then, you just need to play with your shifting times. When I was going insane trying to find a knock in my rear end, my wife helped me by loading it up alternately in drive and reverse when it was up on stands. A gopro will certainly help you get into the trickier bits.

Haha slack arse. It's only going to get colder.

If you can't find anything moving like it shouldn't be when it's knocking then just go over everything in the rear subframe and tighten it the fark up. Do you mean your trans flared? It had a stock rebuild aye? How was the vibration from the tailshaft at the drags?

Morning mayne. You get them turbo bits yet?

Haha look at Mr grammar and Mr dictionary over here.

Since you listed full wog as an option I'd choose that. If money matters then rebuild the stocker.

I had an issue the other day with my elec bill not displaying online so I deleted all of my cookies and the browser came good. Edit: It didn't work just now though.

Not for me. I can see those little nope signs on this page.

There were some pictures yesterday that I couldn't see at all.

I could see them earlier today with the mirror, table and chairs and chandelier etc and I thought it was odd that you asked do these work. I thought you were asking if they worked together as in style and I'd missed something somewhere.

They did before but not now.

I was just logged in a hybrid k31th. My notifications displayed at the top of the page, k31th's notifications in a windows notification popup at the bottom right and all of the stuff you see when you have the developer options.

Not quite man. If that's the plan then sure that's the time to do it. There is a big difference between a whole engine recon and a head recon. I always do the most of the stuff you mentioned when the head is off. Hand porting is a pita aka time consuming but if you can be bothered then go for it. As eff xr6t said you can definitely fit the head onto the block with it in the car.

No worries. Let us know how you get on.

How best to say this... Jet might do it, he does go out of his way to help people. He is trustworthy imo. His reputation is for tuning, not engine building.

How happy is Tuesday now k31th? Jk Note to self: stop eating spicy noodles for a midnight snack.

My missus loves that show.

You mentioned in your first post that it is losing coolant but not mixing with the oil so it is either burning or leaking out. I know you'll see orange on the plugs with petrol burning coolant but perhaps the e85 cleans the plugs. I don't know for sure but it can't be hard to find that info. You can work that our yourself anyway. You know for sure it's losing coolant one way or another and misfiring so there clearly is a problem. If you are thinking it may need a rebuild then that is more than likely a separate issue. Unless it's leaking from a cracked block I'd say a head fix would be sufficient. Do a wet and dry compression and leakdown test first if you're worried and if that comes back fine then just do the head. If you're at very high km you may want to rebuild anyway with mild upgrades while it's apart but that's up to you. I wouldn't drive it any more than necessary as the leak could progress around the gasket. When you get coolant in the oil it'll start to develop further issues that can go bad pretty quickly.

I wouldn't put it on a dyno as it's unnecessary for diagnosis and potentially damaging to an already distressed engine. If you can clearly see that it's leaking between the head and the block and by the sound of it, burning coolant which can also be checked, you should go through the process of appropriate repair/upgrade sooner rather than later.

I went the ebay route and the pods melted within the first hot week of summer.

Not sure.