Puffwagon

You should show your wife then maybe she will do it for you too.

The disc type injector is much less likely to suffer from poor filtration. Let's just use aussie science and say, "you'll be right mate".

Hurr durr my grammar

If you practice standing on one foot long enough you will be Heh heh heh

Fark knows. I haven't looked into it but I reckon they won't as they have a financial interest in this area. It's worth mentioning that filters are rated or named differently and that the array on the page in question is using the multipass test and ranking them with an absolute rating. The beta filtration ratio which wasn't mentioned at all which is more telling than the absolute method. It is inaccurate and slightly misleading in this context to use an absolute figure to compare filters as the upstream particles may only be a couple of microns larger and therefore show an incorrect perception of what the percent of the particles passing by actually represent in a filtration capacity. This is how the test should have been done as it is an industry standard. The ISO has been revised here and is possibly available elsewhere. As an aside from my own reflection on this subject I'll add that filtration capacity will change over time and that the testing should be run for an identical duration. There are other variables that are unaccounted for such as fluid temperature, fluid pressure, specific gravity, flow, test fluid type, standard test debris, ambient temp, ambient baro etc etc. At the end of the day if you really want to know what's what with anything you will need to do your own testing.

That electric rug looks pretty flash too!

This post should get a bunch of likes so random readers notice it more. I did some research when I saw the first couple of comments and found out that 5 to 10 microns is good for the pressure side for a petrol filter and around 100 microns is ok for the suction side of the pump assy. There is bulk info out there on the interwebs to confirm this as there is more to a filter than the size of it's hole! I still like the idea of naming a horse turbo This is the quote in context. We found the 10 micron stainless elements on the market to be far from 10 micron, catching almost nothing all the way up to 25 micron, as seen in the test below. The 10 micron stainless elements that we have tested are not suitable for Injector Dynamics fuel injectors. It's not suggesting 10 microns is not suitable. It's saying that the 10 micron filters they tested are not suitable cos they are raging piles of sh*t with giant stretched out holes.

Many tried this?

I'd go pull a skid for you out of sympathy but my fuel light came on a couple of days ago.

I knew that emoticon existed for a reason

Even better sell your car, buy a horse, name it turbo then ride of into the sunset yelling yeehaw cocksuckers!

My 2 year old daughter does. Every time the missus is baking she's gotta have some.

Milo butter. When eating a lump of butter just isn't enough.

Fg on the left and bf on the right. They're interchangeable. The longer thread needs a deeper socket.

You'll need a 36mm socket. Buy a deep one. Have your cable ties on hand to support the brake caliper. When the cv's ready to come out just give it a yank and it'll pop out easily. When you put the new one in don't wreck the seal in the diff. If it's been leaking replace the seals. You could just replace them anyway as seals are cheap but I didn't and mine doesn't leak. Push it until the clip seats inside the diff. Needless to say don't work under a car unless it's on jack stands.

That's all good man.

If only one is stuffed just change one

I've done them in the driveway. The hardest part for me was freeing up the hub cos it was a bit stuck. Nothing that some wd40 and a bit of hammering/tapping didn't solve. It's easier than you think.

Pretty much

Pics of bolted on manifold and wg and any other shiny or tubular stuff. Ain't nobody got 2 weeks to wait for pics

I've seen them $100 cheaper on ebay. If you hardly get to flog it then just do injectors, pump and tune and save the rest for cocaine and hookers.

If you jump on the superpro website there is a diagram of all of the Ford bushes. It shows the rear end from the front and back. I'd check that there isn't excessive play in the driveline from the front of the tailshaft to the wheels and check the rubber damper at the front of the tail shaft for servicability. There are a few causes for axle tramp but I'm sure you'll get it sorted soon.

Are those front bushes still intact? I have polylast bushes and although they are beefy in the middle I'm sure they could still separate at the closed end. Does it still drive straight under load? Are the hat bushes still intact? Is the subframe still lined up? I spose it wouldn't hurt to check every nut and bolt under there with a long bar or torque wrench. Obviously I can't tell you what's wrong but it doesn't hurt to bounce ideas around.

Did you undo the shock absorbers from the top and check that they return when compressed?

You should change it up. Muscles need a minimum amount of stimulation to grow and any more than that is a waste (mostly). They should be stimulated, not annihilated. Linear periodization is key man. Don't push yourself so hard and you'll feel better. More exercise doesn't mean more gains. Regardless, keep going like you said. Worse case you'll slowly progress and eventually find a woman that you can stand and that'll put up with you