cobrav8

I am reasonably sure that this carb is a Weber as used on 1600 Kent crossflow or 1600 or 2000 SOHC engines in Escort or Cortinas. It would be worth a few dollars if new - as they do tend to wear out over the years.

Whats the story behind these cars??

RDPs is not polished - it is a powdercoated shiny finish. I bought a standard XT rocker cover and had it dipped to strip it, and polished for I think it was $60. The only issue is that you need to thoroughly clean inside to make sure the stripped crud doesnt get through your motor. You also need to get yourself a cover one day to replace the black plastic piece- I believe that Process West are releasing one soon. You have to remove spark plugs, creossover etc etc - a bit of work. My cover came with the rubber gasket. If later - they might only have gasket goo - easy to do.

You are onto your third T anyway - if something goes wrong - just get a new one!

I want to buy just a drivers one - none of the others have any wear, seems a waste to have to buy a set (though the ute idea is worth looking at the price).

Average would be 190 to 210. I have a D-pic gauge that mounts in a Tripod gauge pod - does most of the functions of a g-tech.

Thanks buddy - I will give that a try

I have a similar question. My car is a March 2005 - and has generally been garaged at home and work. We are doing some building at the moment, so car has to live outside. It was parked on the drive pointing downwards - and I noticed a bit of water on the boot floor (liner). Not much... but enough to see it has leaked. Will Ford cover repairing this outside of 3 year warranty?

Dont sweat it mate - you would want to turn it off anyway once you get an edit. The traction control isnt good enough once you have enough power.

If the F6 has lower compression, maybe it has less torque until the boost kicks in. Combine that with reasonably low boost, then maybe the extra boost while standard has not given as much of a performance boost over a stock FG Turbo. Room for improvement is greater though.

Do you think they are better than these 8 potters http://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/?actio...∂=25025 and rears http://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/?actio...∂=24785

I go with that - if you reset your trip average speed meter while holding a speed - it seems to be more accurate.

I have an X-force twin 2.5 system, and the sh*tness level of the Y pipe was at the overflowing level of crap measurement. The pipes look good on the outside, but where the air is flowing was rubbish. Saying that, we welded the joins up and ground it all up nicely, and it should be heaps better. Would be interesting to measure the flow pre de-sh*tting the pipe and after

Here are some links to the Jegs website in America, I have got some parts from there - great prices and service. This website shows daytime and lit pictures My Pic of gauges for an auto: Cobalts http://www.jegs.com/I/Auto%20Meter/105/6180/10002/-1 A Performance Gauge measuring G-force, 0-100 times etc. http://www.jegs.com/I/Auto%20Meter/105/6103/10002/-1 Vaccum/Boost http://www.jegs.com/I/Auto+Meter/105/6157/...-1/751342|10339 Trans Temp. and I would put a switch so that you can switch to oil temp. sensors for oil pressure or temp tend to be mounted on a sandwhich plate between the oil filter and block, or off Turbo feed line. Sensor for Trans temp is off trans sump. or the Ford Racing equivalent: http://www.jegs.com/I/Auto%20Meter/105/880089/10002/-1 http://www.jegs.com/I/Auto+Meter/105/880074/10002/-1/990936 http://www.jegs.com/I/Auto+Meter/105/880079/10002/-1/990936 Or... for something completely different: http://www.xtremeautogauges.com.au/index.p...5&Itemid=28 I reckon these would be more useful to be able to look at so many different readings, and are very easy to install as they just plug into the computer port.

no..... cause he has the badges!

Apparently the centre is 35 kgs, I would guess at around 60 with housing and brakes

cool mate - looks very similar to mine, I had a black vinyl roof - and twin bench seats. I remember a 120 odd mile an hour squirt once - and noticed the traffic stopped ahead - my god I ended up with brown pants trying to stop - it slowed fine at first, then worse and worse. Stopped though (so did my heart I think). I had to sell the beast to pay for a garage and a wedding.

90% of the car is the same as an FPV anyway - so once I put a bodykit and badges, grille on - I am just doing the same as FPV do - take a base model and bolt parts on! Anyway... just winding you up - couldnt be botherered with spending money on badges!

I looked at upgrading my car from a BA2 XR6 T to a BF F6 yesterday. Basically - my car as a trade is worth half of the F6! So...Instead: Process West Plenum and Cooler and Fuel Pump, Valve Springs, X Force Exhaust, Turbo Mods, New Tune, FPV 19s an F6 Body kit are going to go on the car. I have most of the bits - just need the body kit - and then the car gets a birthday! I might get badges once its all done!

Sadly - you will probably be sitting in a computer controlled electric or hyrogen powered device that acts like a train - where you get in and tell it where you want to go - and it takes you there at a safe controlled speed, does the driving for you.

I had a 65 Chev Caprice (the upmarket Impala) - 396 Big Block, and four door pillarless. That was a cool car. Agreed - I thought that was a tank- and it was, long, wide, but low and probably not much structure to them - just acres of metal. ALso - it had 4 wheel drum brakes - they were scary. It handled a lot better than I expected it to though. That car was cool, fun to drive, but not the same in performance, handling or braking as the Falcon. I have a Cobra replica now - piss all over the Falcon, even with lots of mods, as it is half the weight, and with a race 454 - very fast. But.... it is an animal, and no good in traffic, rain, going slow, fuel economy is hopeless. Basically the Falcon is such a good car for being to go to work, tow, and have lots of power. Perfect for a road car. The Cobra is good just for fun.

I hope this doesnt goes against posting rules... but http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-158928090.htm Force 6 or 8 rear lip spolier on Trademe in NZ. Not mine, but cheap, and one of you may want it.

Cams should not be $2000 or $3000 though should they?

It has a completely new firewall/tunnel, starts just under the leading edge of the winscreen and heads back. Looks like it doesnt fit - but it certainly does, though... I would imagine there would not be much room around the engine - and lots of heat soak into the cabin.

On Leatherette - I bought my Cobra race car - and it only had a single seat, covered in leather. I got a fibregalss sheel and got an upholsterer to cover in leatherette. The result is very good, looks like leather, and doesnt crease and fold as much as the leather does. So.... I would support this stuff. That is a bargain for a whole car interior.