skidxr6t

Going back next week and running new cables. I'll make good money doing this at least. I just couldn't believe what these electricians have done, we had to drill a big hole in a wall to access a cable further down a riser shaft because for some weird reason they decided to do a join (60cm before another join, and NO slack) by twisting the pairs without even using scotchlocks. 2015 build house with a recent NBN connection, this builder totally f*cked the client over by wiring it for a standard telephone system, but hey that's all good because "it's all cat5 so it can be used for data...................." Don't use electricians to do your communications wiring. They always go "pffft, comms is easy" well WHY DO I ALWAYS SEE ELECTRICIANS' f*ckUPS?

I quoted too little to fit a cat6 point in garage with existing wiring. Only cause I know this client well did I stay around for a few hours longer than it should have taken and even got shouted lunch. These f*ckING electricians TWIST JOINED THESE CABLES together meaning I have continuity on all 4 pairs BUT IT DOESN'T WORK BECAUSE IT HAS TOO MUCH LOSS. It's a NIGHTMARE of a cable run, no roofspace access, double story house so the run has to go upstairs then drop back downstairs and yeah it's kinda funny. Pretty sure I'll be removing downlights and sticking a pushrod in to get part of the run done!

There is constant +12v and +12v switched by ignition so it's only getting the +12v that's switched by ignition. half an hour with a multimeter and this problem is usually solved.

interesting, they do provide an option to allow some non intrusive advertising by default. No script has my back but it can get sorta annoying on some sites but after a while it's fine.

This is why I run Ad Block Plus and make it so no ads are allowed and also run NoScript so I manually allow scripts. It pisses me off when websites only need one or two scripts enabled to display correctly but want to run f*cking 50. Ads are the scouge of the internet, ALWAYS use an ad blocker and even then you're not 100% protected. Cheers for the heads up though, came out clean of course haha.

I stand corrected, what you say makes perfect sense.

I was looking at one with a BTR that had been built and the main things you need are: Strengthened (kevlar bands etc), BIIG transmission cooler that bypasses radiator and modification of the shifting so it literally BANGS into every gear (sorta) cause you want the gearshifts to be as fast as possible. But the price just ain't right for all the work the car needs, thousands and thousands of dollars needed to be spent.

I can see why you're a little impatient mate. You're a good dude judging by the hundreds of posts I've read of yours. We all can't wait for your car to be finished and I hope it makes you really happy when it's all finished and you get to drive it around (haha my favourite smiley)

we should all text dominello and ask why he no respond to babe im happy you're working on the ute again mate

yeah not buying the car I spoke about there. hopefully you got nothing dodgy like that going on with them KMs..... do wreckers just sell people clusters?

heres what two perth shops do for the ZF which might give you an idea of what options there are mate, http://www.xtremefordtuning.com.au/index.php/component/content/category/2-uncategorised http://www.monstatorque.com.au/performance-zf/service/ cheers

I'm possibly buying one with almost 500hp at wheels and no service history but with an XFT built auto and a few other receipts for bushings, etc. All being well plan is to take it straight to my trusted mechanic and leave my wallet in the car. Then to Monsta Torque (Perth) if they're not too busy for a ZF service. Quite a drive from where I live though so I might see if my mechanic can do it. I'll probably do some of the work myself but really can't be bothered because I don't have anywhere to put a car up on axel stands :( There is a lot of resources on this forum if you want to work on the car yourself or simply educate yourself. It's why I donated!

people seem to buy the earls branded line but ive seen a few.

Hopefully it was maintained better than the BA I used to own with slightly lower Ks. I would recommend getting the suspension and bushings inspected. The reason I say this is the brake shudder can be caused by a number of things but with those Ks there would be some bushings due if they haven't already been done, like the front lower control arm bushing for example. I would do all the fluids...diff, brake fluid, auto transmission fluid (while fitting cooler which you should do).

So if I buy the car I need to ask around on how to remove something which I have no idea about. Car was tuned by xft with an X3 so the zf could be tuned? when/if I get myself a turbo

what the heck is a 'stage 2 zf shift kit'

What I dont get is why ford isn't using the barra 6cyl in international vehicles?

I am pretty sure the ecu can still compensate for all of this and you're all sweet. Get it tuned locally if things aren't running right but at the least maybe get it run up on a dyno for $100-150 Not to say the air temperature and humidity doesnt make a difference, I just think things like fuel quality will make a bigger difference. cheers

Scrape off all the sound deadener from under the car and other spots, remove spare wheel and jack, remove all seats, door trims and even the f*cking carpet. Remove the electric window regs and rig it up so a cordless drill winds em up n down. remove the roof liner, lose some weight (you) and take a giant sh*t before going for a drive. how much weight do ya needa lose mate? I agree with the sentiment on RDA brakes. Have slotted n dimpled ones on one of my cars now and theyre fine but do make a tiny bit of noise. if you're happy with the brakes as they are then just whack standard rotors on and spend the money on decent pads (project moo ones or something)

Far out my early 2000 R1 is fast enough let alone any turbo charged motorcycles! gota say I got a soft spot for the BMW bikes, much prefer their handling/etc. the video of the bikes being pushed down the drags is hilarious!

surprised nobodys replied.. As far as I know you want an entire donor car to take the wiring looms, icc (radio), cluster, ECU, etc from. Personally if ford did a factory turbowagon I'd totally want one!

neeeded a fulllllllll respray. apparantly guy got stickered and instead of doing what phil was talking about doing to his f6 ute (return to stock, run over pits, etc) he chose to get the thing fully engineered?!?! the boot alone was quoted $1000 to fix the rust. my panelbeater mate said $8k due to all the prep required (even the panels the guy had repaired, need re-repairing) and the rust is extreme. pisses me off like seeing my old BA which I crashed, STILL ROCKING THE SAME CRASH DAMAGE but the new owner fitted brembo brakes and big wheels to it.

Ive been looking at BF turbos since january and have been appalled at what is on offer. Many are subject to firesales and are heavily modified. saw a lightning strike BF appear for like 30 seconds and apparently it had 365rwkw listed for $7.5k. another BF listed for the same but 'no service history' and basic mods (injectors, tune) The cracker was one I checked out recently that said in the ad " PAINT IS STARTING TO SHOW SOME AGE ON CERTAIN AREAS, BUT THAT’S EXPECTED ON A 10 YEAR OLD CAR.. " when it actually needed a complete respray with comprehensive preperation work required. This one was off its tits with 550HP but the guy won't go lower than 15. he going to struggle to get $10k so that's what I offered....he was asking like $18k. it also had boot rust which was to the worst extent id ever seen in a falcon.

guys selling off tits bf with 550hp at wheels and said 'paint is starting to show some age in certain areas, but that is to be expected on a ten year old car' None of the other BF's I looked at needed a FULL respray including re-repairing the panels he had painted by some mob because they were so badly done. youd never suspect all that horsepower with the paintjob the car was rocking! precision 6235 turbo too!

Were you given the results of the compression test or just told 'its all good' ? this is why I ask about the compression test/etc results.