LeighD

So can we have a final show of hands for all budding racers? I'll start......

Saleen may be able to help, I believe that he is running those injectors

Since When??? I have got that track day in two weeks and the only advice that I was given was to change the brake fluid etc, pump tyres up to 40psi...nothing about welding a chain to my sump plug. Are you pulling my chain???

I often use the Quik Detailer aswell. If you are using the applicator/towel that comes with it then you shouldn't have any problems. It is far more likely that the swirl marks are resulting from washing the car or something like that. When you read that post on the Ls1 forums, you will see where he talks about taking care when washing. It can make a big difference when you make sure that your sponge/mitt is free of all dirt particles. Same goes for your chamois. Unfortunately, some swirl marks will probably always occur. Best way to get rid of them is to have someone who knows what they are doing use a mechanical buff. Otherwise try using the meguiars paint cleaner (follow the directions properly).

Sorry Jeff , I am not understanding something here Wouldn't it just be a case of flashing in your original custom tune as this would overwrite the dealers factory map. Thought this was the whole point in having the flasher box. He is right If you do not flash your car back to stock prior to a dealer re flashing your car then the Capa Tuner will not work. Capa themselves have said this. They now include a notice in the box when you buy the tuner. I do seem to remeber though that it is worse than just losing a "life" of your tuner box as it can not be reset by a dealer (ie a life taken off) until the first car was returned to stock. This is to prevent a single tuner box loading up to five cars with a new tune! Its all about protecting the SCT property rights

Zap, What kind of paint probs did you have, wasn't anything to do with the Glare product was it??

I gather that a few people are going to this track day, don't know many who are going next Friday.

I am not an expert on Oils but I do believe that the synthetic 0w-40 oil would perform better at high ambient (and operating temps), not the reverse as suggested.. As per the rating states, the oil performs like an SAE 40 weight oil at operating temp and that's all that matters. The fact that it has the relative viscosity of a 0W oil when cold should not matter, if anything it would probably aid lubrication during cold starts.

Andrew said that it just has to be received prior to the event. So I would say that it would be ok if you post the cheque by say the 8th or so of April. Only slight problem may be if it were fully booked before that. I doubt that this will happen though as they have only just filled the minimum number of places necessary to make the day happen. They still have plenty of room left for others just like yourself Steve

What about you Steve??? Now that you have that edit and brakes I would have thought that you would be a prime candidate?

I am all payed up Not sure who is driving the phoon...I suppose that the regular participants will be there ie Andrew with his GTP and Eoin with his XR8. I also overheard someone saying that there will be an old boss mustang that is like a replica touring car (for that era) or something. Anyway, it should be interesting.

I had something similar happen to me...a little worse though! A bit of rag got left in the crossover pipe (intake side). Needless to say, when I started my car and went for a drive it got sucked into the turbo and damaged the compressor wheel. Luckily it didn't bend the turbo shaft so it only cost $800 to have the turbo rebuilt at Turbotech. Biggest cost for me was the labour to take the turbo off etc, I got charged $1200 for that!! I tried taking the turbo off myself but I just couldn't get the last bolt that was holding it on.

Count Me in Steve

Probably best to speak to Garrett Australia, they are usually pretty useful

thought it was 12.9?? I just had a look. You're quite right, 12.98 @107mph Jimmy: If you treat the car with a bit of TLC and maybe some Transmax Z, it should survice with 280rwkw (again though what kills the box is torque) as long as it's tuned with gearbox longevity in mind... That may be the quickest time with a T5 but for instance I know that XtremeF6 has run a 12.3@120Mph in his manual phoon and M6 XR6T has run a 12.91@116Mph in his series II XR6T.

Hey Jimmy, I am (or will be soon) in the same predicament as you. One other option that was put to me was to try to pick up one of the Tremec TR3650 gearboxes. I gather that these are not as strong as the T56 but I have heard of some going quite cheap (like $1000). I can't actually say what else would be required to do the conversion but it may be something worth looking into if the T5 bites the dust.

Its very hard to force myself to get up early on a sunday morining to go in to the office (Multiplex head office is at the Swan Brewery) but I will do my best Steve. Put me down for a definite maybe at the moment and I will confirm by the time you need to make bookings etc.

Zap, I would be interested to know what you think of the Glare product once it has been applied, although I think that its gonna look great no matter what they do.

You see, the guys who do that sh!t on cruises are idiots. They have no idea how to drive, the limits of there car, or there own ability. I for one have done plenty of driver 'training' days, as well as advanced performance driver training. I have not spun out on a cruise trying to be a dcikwad impressing everyone with my ability to do a burnout or drift. ( actually, I've never done either on a cruise ) The idea IS to push the envelope in a controlled environment, with instructors helping and guiding you. Not on the street with a car full of mates. I recommend a track day to ANYONE who drives even a remotly powered vehicle. Not to do burnouts or hang the ass out, but to fully experience what you paid so much coin for. It's another world to have confidence in how your car handles, and how you can handle the car. Going up the back straight and flicking the ute thru the esses at 130 kph was one of the best feelings.. Tyres squeeling, car rolling and it felt like 60kph. Yes, I'll be racing, myself, and the clock, and hell hath no fury like me scorned if M6XR6T goes quicker than me around that venue!! Well said F6 UTE

1axr, I know exactly how you feel regarding the insurance issue. I personally won't be driving anywhere near my limits (or the cars for that matter) so I am quite confident that there will be no damage given the fact that the instructors won't be allowing two cars to come even remotely close to each other. I just think that it is a good chance to hone your skills in a safe environment. I think that you will also find that most insurnace companies cover your car whilst you are undertaking a recognised driver training course with qualified instructors. Leigh

Hi Guys, For those of you that don't already know, there is a driver training day being organised with the Tickford/FPV club at Wanneroo on Thursday 13th April (Good Friday Eve). Driving starts at 6pm but you will need to be there by 5:30pm. Anyone can sign up for the event, no need to join the Tickford/FPV club. It should be great, you can either learn correct driving techniques from the proffessional instructors or you can just go out and have a bit of fun. If you are interested, just fill out the attached form and mail it with your cheque to the address given. All the necessary details should be on the form but if you have any queries you can post them up or PM me. Even if you don't want to drive, it may be wirth a look as there are supposed to be some pretty nice cars attending. Leigh barbs_entry_form.doc

I would normally have agreed but it just seems a little strange to me that it idles fine most of the time. The stalling problem also did not show up until about two weeks after I put the plugs in.

This may be slightly off topic but I will ask anyway..... Can the valve springs also cause an intermittent idle problem? My car will idle fine most of the time but if I have been sitting at the lights for a while it can start idling rough and stall if the computer doesn't catch it in time. So far my Ford dealer seems to have no clue. They have just replaced the PCM because it had some strange error codes on it that seemed to point to a problem with the computer itself. The only thing that I have done to it lately is to put some Typhoon spark plugs in it (they are colder) then gap them at 0.9mm as per CAPA's suggestion for my edit. Could this be causing the problem? I have also checked the manifold for leaks etc but can't find anything. Has anyone experienced this before??

Hey Guys, Just thought that I would post some pics of how the car came out after following the detailing info provided on that LS1 forum post. The products I chose were: meguiars deep crystal paint cleaner, meguiars deep crystal polish, Auto Glym high gloss sealant with a final coat of Turtle Wax Platinum Series Ultra Gloss. As you can see, it looks pretty good. Now I just have to keep it that way!

Thanks Jet, I was pretty sure that he was just a rip off! Have you heard anything about the Glare product??