xr6t4life

pazzo's on the money need to call up ford with the vin no.

loose flex plate maybe?

from what I have read with the engine the pistons are different so you would need to change them to low compression, the rods are the same as what would be in a ba xr6 turbo the valve springs are also the soft ones as would be in a ba turbo and also on the turbo head they have a different exhaust valves to handle the extra heat your better off getting a second hand turbo motor unless you are going to change them all. as for the ecu I have no idea

well you cant keep filling it up with the cap on can ya , once the thermostat opens up it will suck new coolant through and bring out the air bubbles as long as it stays toped up she will be fine

clean out the throttle body it helps alot my mates car does this every few months, he cleans the throttle body and its good as new

take your battery off for half an hour it should fix itself and bring it back down to 1000-1200

maby 388 hp but not kw

yea the ford fluid is clear browny colour not red $12.95 for 1L at auto1, when I did mine I got a clear pipe and syphened out the reservoir then filled it up with new fluid, jacked the front wheels up turned the car on and turned the wheel side to side until the oil was black again. repeated the 1st and 2nd step until it was clean, I used about 3/4 of the bottle. u can either turn the wheels up in the air or just drive around for a week and change it again.

I got my second hand door trim from the wreckers $150 but it wasnt my style trim so I just drilled the handle off the trim and just have the screws holding it in, brand new from ford someone was saying 600 but another person 2000 but I no it aint cheep

I did the same thing you did mat, what a load of wank it was trying to find a replacement there is so many diferent designs for door trims I ended up pulling the handle bit off another door trim and fiting it to my trim but it does still pop out every now and then if you find 1 could you chuck up the place u get it from cheers

1. when did you last replace your battery sounds like its on its way out 2. have you checked your brake pads sounds like there worn down to the metal plate 3. there is a button on your icc that if you push it it will search through the entire frequensy and pick the 6 strongest signals cheak your owners manual for which button

thanks for the info guys ended up cutting a small amount but I got it to fit in the end. sounds INSANE now with the new intake

I have rapids hot side piping (bf) that im fitting at the momunt but it seems the only way it will fit is if I cut some metal, does anyone know if there is cutting required to fit it as I dont want to cut up my car if its not needed?

hey guys does any one know aprox how many litres/cm3 fills up the top half of the stock plenum on ba/f turbos???

I have gotten this once on a cold night in 3rd or 4th gear about 5400rpm its just like a limiter but as u said a bit more aggressive I told my mechanic about it as I was having some problems with the engine light at the time, never heard back about it car has never done it again though I just assumed it over boosted and just cut the throttle but it didnt go into limp mode it just drove normal after it happened

no worries at all mate, happy to help anytime

its sealed, the car is running fine nothing wrong with it except for the codes apearing.

well it all started about 6 months ago I disconected the battery off my bf xrt for about a week and pulled my intake and plenum chamber off so I could take some measurements for a new plenum I was designing. after I was done I put it all back together and started the car and took it for a drive and she was all sweet. the next day I went to work in the morning started the car and after 5 seconds of running the check engine light came on and stayed on. I was thinking I must of not put something bak on properly so I got home checked over everything it was all fine so I took the battery off for a few mins put it bak on started the car and drove it it was normal again got home turned it off and on and there it is again. I inspected the whole car drove it with the engine light on the car is running normal as it always has yet the light is on so I took it to my local mechanic hes a well known mechanic who works on new cars. he hooked it up to his gazillion doller scanner and 2 codes apeared I cant remember the numbers but 1 was boost sensor fault (that's the sensor on the underbattery pipe) and the second was wastegate solinoid fault. it was basically saying they were both fuked yet the car is running normal. after about a 2 weeks of my mechanic playing with my car he and ford are both stumped on what the problem is as apparently my car is the first to have this problem. he started off by clearing the codes and they would pop back up strait away. the only time there not there is the first time you start the car after disconecting the battery the second time you start it bam they pop up and dont go away. he then changed the 2 sensors with new genuine ford sensors, and hey the light went off he drove it turned it off drove it turned it off he did it about 8 times and called me up saying its all fixed, I go down there he started the car up for me to take home and bam there they are again. he then checks all the sensors and wiring to see if its within ford specs basically the car is 100% normal yet the lights pop up. he then talks to some ford ppl to see what they have to say he gets a bit of a run around with them but after a while he gets all the info he needs to do all the tests he needs to do, again the car is running normal. by the end of it he comes to the conclusion that the ecu is farked yet he is not 100% sure it will fix the problem if I buy a new one. its gonna cost 1000+ to buy a new 1, I said im not forking out 1000 dollars just to turn the light off when the car is running how it should and it might not fix the problem so I just left it at that. its has now been a few months and f*ck my life this light is giving me the sh*ts, I came across a post yesterday saying people have had problems with codes coming up and also there car actually having problems (mine isnt having problems) and it was caused by a bad earth. so today I went through and cleaned up all the earths I could find and also pulled every major plug off checked for corrosion and put it back together there were a few loose earths and 1 plug with some corosion so I fixed all of them started the car drove it turned it off started again praying that it wouldnt pop up after 5 seconds it did so I got pissed off and thought I would write something on hear to see if you guys had any ideas on what might be causing it. I dont really expect anyone to know what it might be but there might be a chance someone has had this problem before and could point me in the right direction. Cheers Sean

that cant be normal can it? that's a fkn insane amount of play

its only an na if the tyres are cold u might get some wheel spin on 275s but you should get a fair amount of traction, im amazed u can smoke both your tyres with an lsd, generic tune and stock stall my mate has a modded au and strugles to do that and hes making 170rwkw

do you not have a lsd? if you do and its still jumping to the limiter you defanately need some better tyres

u have flashed it im guessing by that its a generric tune and not a custom tune since u havent had it on a dyno? you seem like u have covered all the basics I would say next step is a mild cam and maby a highstall converter and if you havent already got a custom tune I would go for one of them to get the most out of your mods.

could someone send me a map cheers

I think its more about personal choice as both boxes are good, iam and most likely will be a manual man for a long time I have had my T manual for 2 years and not 1 day has passed were I regret my choice I absolutely love my manual. I have driven the zf auto and well its a great box but at the end of the day I would get bored with it but everyone is different. although if you do decide to get a manual after the box is run in get rid of the sh*t oil in it and put something aftermarket in it as it makes the box shift soooo much smoother. I have used (PENRITE MANUAL GEAR OIL 70) for the past year and a half with nothing but great results

this is what wikipedia sais. In 2007 300 limited edition "R Spec" versions of the BF MKII F6 Typhoon were made available. This model was equipped with several upgrades including stiffer suspension and 19'x8" alloy wheels which sought to improve the car's handling. Additional upgrades also included leather seats as standard, R Spec floor mats, Interior Car Console MP3 accessory port and F6 R Spec build plates and badging. Colours that the R Spec Typhoon was released in included Winter White, Lightning Strike, Vixen, Neo, Ego, Bionic and Silhouette. Apart from their badging, R Spec Typhoons can be identified by their Thurderstorm Grey inserts seen on the front and rear bumper bars, fog light surrounds, rear spoiler pillars and alloy wheels. The R spec model was also available as a special order in custom option colour choice, At Least Two are known to be in Fords "Conquer Blue Metallic" with the Dark Ardent inserts. (One being car number 141 of the 300, which is also one of ten imported to New Zealand and the only manual of those 10)