Barnesy

Getting ready, just watched Mad Max, the give away of location in most scenes is the You Yangs.

I also recommend Matt from BPR (Geelong) very helpful and will explain everything

The new ST has an electronic steering and it reduces torque steer to a minimum from what I have read

You can get a genuine ford one off ebay for $60 (Amplified one)

My Sub arrived from the States today, will give some of the Jaycar stuff a go. Would this be better as its thicker? http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AX3689

Hi Guys I would like to have some extra boot space so I am getting rid of the Candence 12" boxed sub from the boot and have ordered a JBL 8" Sub to go back into the parcel shelf. All running off factory amp. Going through the forums, alot of people have recommended Dynamating the rear parcel shelf. My questions are: How much Dynamat will I need, and what sizes? Are there cheaper substitutes to Dynamat that work just as well? Where do I purchase Dynamat (ebay, stereo instal place)? Thanks in advance

Water pump malfunctioning?

I'm in.

I got mine from Grant Walker Parts. $95 it matches the bonnet grille

I got mine sorted out today...the guys at Pit Lane Performance found it to be the drivers side engine mount. It looked like mush and melted rubber. My car drives like a completly difference car from start up.

When the car is in Park & Neutral the car idles fine, it is just when its in Drive or Reverse that there are idle issues.

After everything went bang (timing chain tensioner snapped), I put the car back to stock; I had minor idles issues before it got tuned. So now running factory injectors, were tested before they were installed, coils and plugs (factory ones) are only 14mnth/20,000km old. Could be a few things like TPS, Idle controler. Will be putting a new o2 sensor in on the weekend, after 148K it might be time for a new one!

I am having the same problem. Poor idle when in drive/reverse and stationary and rattles the whole car, car acts A OK off the line. Replaced the PCV value today, turns out that this is not the problem. I have cleaned the throttlebody in the past and reset the ecu, fixes it for a few days, then it comes back. Could it be alternator related, if idle quality gets worse when accessories are turned on? Also the poor idle only happens once the coolant is at temp (closed loop)

TAS signal outside of allowable frequency range or not present Restraint Deployment Indicator Circuit (Faulty RCM (Seatbelt indicator) , check Section 501-20b, open circuit TAS signal to pin B6 of PCM)

Got my car done last year, they even pay for a hire car while your car is in the shop.

I have I have notices significant improved rear end grip with 27mm, especially in the wet, but have noticed a bit of under steer through some tight turns especially round abouts. IMO if you have under-steer you are going to hot into the corner. I might invest in some 22mm rears and see if there is some improvement to reduce under-steer.

Mick (Pit Lane Performance) rebuilt the top end of my car when it snapped the plastic timing chain guide and bend all the intake valves. Its an expensive exercise so get it fixed asap.

Sounds good, I have never driven on these roads, can't wait....weather permitting.

I'm keen

Nope stock actuator. Definitely stock tune, had issues with Xcal 3 when returning to stock tune and Herrod Motorsport was kind enough to upload ford factory tune so my car would start.

I ran a fault code diagnostics and it came up with 3 errors P0236 - Boost Pressure Sensor Circuit /Range Performance P0238 - Boost Pressure Sensor Circuit High P1227 - Wastegate Control System Failed closed - Over Pressure Possible cause from Workshop manual: Blocked or restricted wastegate solenoid ports Damaged or missing hose(s) between wastegate solenoid and turbo compressor or wastegate actuator. Failed wastegate actuator diaphragm Stuck open/closed wastegate valve (in turbine housing). Loose, blocked or damaged hoses from turbo compressor outlet to throttle body Damaged intercooler Blocked or restricted intake to turbo compressor P1227 - TURBOCHARGER CONDITION Blocked or restricted wastegate solenoid ports. Damaged or missing hose(s) between wastegate solenoid and turbo compressor or wastegate actuator. Failed wastegate actuator diaphragm,Stuck open/closed wastegate valve (in turbine housing). Loose, blocked or damaged hoses from turbo compressor outlet to throttle body. Damaged intercooler. Blocked or restricted intake to turbo compressor. Now where do I go from here!?

Hi Guys Background of the car: I had my car tuned and after the timing chain guide let go and $4K later to repair the damage I decided to return the car to a stock tune. Only mods are Growler F6 intercooler,CAI, Nizpro Valve Springs, centre muffler removed. The car had the ford stock tune reinstalled by Herrod Motorsport around Feb 2011. Since the stock install I have noticed the peak boost has crept from 6psi and it occasionally hits 15psi which is quite concerning on a Ford stock tune. The only change that has been made since the stock tune was done is remove the centre muffler and replace with straight through pipes. What could be the cause of the car overboosting? Blocked cat Boost control valve failure Wastegate actuator not operating correctly ECU partial failure Piping loose

Sounds like a earthing issue

I have been looking at the Atomic Heads Cylinder Heads - Exchange #306190-RB Stage 3 head suit Ford DOHC 6 cyl BA Series Stage 3 Porting, fully serviced, multi angle valve job, fitted with Atomic #306800 springs and new seals. Customers own head. $1,694.00 Seems like a good deal Is it worth while?

Already pulled the rocker cover off. Turned the car over so cam lobe was downwards and there was a 5mm gap between the rocker arm and the cam, only seems to be the intake side. Definitely bent valves.