BensXR6T

Diff bush is a labour intensive job, the whole rear suspension cradle has to come out to do it properly. While you are getting it done, consider getting the control arm bushes done as well and have the gasket in the diff replaced. Budget for $600 - $800

Just get the centre muffler removed and save your money till you can afford a decent mandrel bent 3.5" or twin 2.5" system. Standard system without centre muffler and a high flow cat added is good for high 200's. If you're chasing over 300rwkw, then you are gonna need more then just a tune and exhaust.

F6 intake can be found on the classifieds on this site normally, ebay, wrecking yards or new from ford. Installing it is just a simple process of removing the standard on and fitting the F6 one. The diff clunk is a factory fitted feature. If it's really bad, the diff bush is probably shagged.

Double check your plug gaps, or it could be running a bit lean in closed loop. Valves springs won't cause it, you will get a rough idle after hard acceleration if they have gone soft.

Only thing I can think of that would cause the BOV to open during boost would be if the vacuum hose was off...cos it's boost that holds them shut, if that line is off then the BOV will open. Fix up the rattling heat shield, it could be the knock sensors picking it up and retarding your timing.

inlet or outlet?

Power to weight you have it, but don't be surprised if he snaps you off the line and you real him in the last 200m or so.

I took my car into Pedders Geebung and they did nothing like what ACA reported. They were very informative and make suggestions of what should be changed to handle the increased power output of my car. They gave me a detailed report on what needs replacing now and what will need replacing in the near future while showing me what parts they were talking about while the car was on the hoist. The total repair quote was a bit higher then what I could get the bushes replaced elsewhere, but that's why they have these $14 checks, to get people through the door. Also $14 wouldn't even cover the labour involved to do the check, so they need to get repairs. Yes fair enough, the dealer that ACA went to may have been shonkey, doesn't mean they all are...

Can you take an audio sample of the noise? Might make it a bit easier to diagnose. If the previous owner put a 12psi actuator in there, did it already have a tune to match? cos it would have been throwing codes and going into limp mode if it was still standard. Have you checked all your piping is tight? and also might want to rip the filter on the turbo oil feed line out and replace it incase it's blocked very bad chattering noise if that's the case.

Yeah ... 600 ... but how consistently? 420kw = 570hp or so

Might wanna go for a bigger core then a HDi if you want your 400 -420 to be consistent. The cooler may get there, but only for two or three pulls before it heat soaks.

hahaha I'd love to see the look on their faces when it won't start afterwards ..... they'd be packing bricks

The miss will most likely be a coil pack failure. As for the dash lights not lighting up, could be a fuse, but the most comment cause is the indicator stalk, over time wires break in it and things stop working. It;s a sh*t of a job to get off, but it's the only way to check for broken wires. There's been a few guy repair broken wires in them cos the replacement stalk is quite expensive. Cheers, Ben

Jack up one rear wheel, leave it in gear with the handbrake off and try to spin the wheel that's off the ground. If you can spin it and you hear the clunking/grinding noise, then use a mate to determine where the noise is coming from. The LSD will transfer the movement to the other side if the CV is on the opposite side that you are working on. There's a couple of places these things can break, outer and inner shaft joints, crown wheel or pinion in the diff and also the CV that attaches the prop shaft to the diff. Good luck with her. Cheers, Ben

Have you checked the CV's as well?? One blown CV will cause most of the drive to go to the damaged unit with the LSD trying to compensate, which could be why you have a little bit of drive. Does it do it in all gears?? Could of thrown 1st gear, I hope for your sake it hasn't! Blown diff in my experience will cause 100% loss of drive or sharp jolts as the pinion grabs remaining teeth on the crown wheel. The internals can be replaced without any issues as long as the housing isn't damaged. It's a pretty big job to replace, whole cradle has to come out I believe ... if your insurance will cover it, then use them and pay the excess, gonna be a hell of a lot cheaper then the cost of diff and labour. Check the classifieds on here, there was a diff for sale a while ago, also eBay and wrecking yards are your friend if insurance won't fix it and you're on a budget. Cheers, Ben

Here's a pdf print off of the price list GreenNZPriceList2009.pdf

Stock crossover is good for about 480rwhp, but you can make power easier without it. However he may not be chasing the huge numbers some of us are after. You will have to strip it completely to get a good finish, bit of paint stripper should do the trick. Just use some high temp paint on it and go whatever colour you want. Brake calliper or engine enamel will do the trick, the key is preparation. If your base coat is perfect then it will be alot easier to make the colour coat look good. Just follow the directions on the can you buy for prep work. Good luck Cheers, Ben

I had a problem with my car where it was misfiring under load a few weeks ago. I suspected coils, but wasn't the case ... ended up being the tune ... ran fine for about a week after the tune was installed ... I know it's a long drive back to your tuner, but it might be your only option, just drive off boost, it's not that hard to do. Good luck getting it sorted. Cheers, Ben

They can tell how many times the PRAM in the ECU has been reprogrammed. So in short, yes....

The thing that is always forgotten though is speed limits don't stop people from speeding .... take the recent fatals that have happened in the last couple of months .... in residential areas with idiots behind the wheels. If the authorities were really serious about reducing high speeds on public roads, they would spend more money on marked patrol cars instead of blowing thousands of $$ on cameras etc. Think about it, in the presence of a marked police car, do you play up? No! Solution: use a low budget marked car to increase the KNOWN presence of officers. How many Hyundai Getz can be purchased for the price of one high performance unmarked car with a mobile speed camera installed? But we know this will never happen, cos the revenue raised from speed cameras is more important then actually tackling the problem, even though it's a proven fact that drivers do not speed in the presence of marked cars and are more alert of what's around them!!

I'd say well into the high 300's. I know of one car that produced 480rwhp fairly effortlessly with one. Just to give an idea of difference between the Monza and the HDi, my car ran an extra 30hp with the same tune when I changed the cooler to the Hdi. Cheers, Ben

For sure, I need to check out the fit quality of the glass bar so I can get rid of the tow bar hole in my std one as well I'll be keen to go down to RDP for the dyno night, prob wont run it, but it's aways a pleasure to see high HP cars. Cheers, Ben

No worries and enjoy your modification path ... it's very rewarding with these things

Ring around a few of the tuners, they sometimes keep them in stock. If you have no luck, give Lee at RDP a call, they usually have one or 2 there and I'm sure he'd be more then happy to send one to you. (07) 3284 1925. they fitted one to my car a couple of weeks ago. Cheers, Ben

I haven't noticed any increase in operating temp at all since fitting the HDi cooler. The Radiator receives most of it's air from the upper grill section. You also need to remember that air is designed to go through an intercooler not block it, otherwise they would be useless, very minor restriction in airflow IMO. To add to that, with a smaller intercooler you are gonna be pumping extremely hot air directly into the engine which is also gonna raise engine temps ... and in a more more dangerous way.