BensXR6T

Take off the number plate and put a self tapping screw through the hole that is in the middle of the bar. Stopped mine from sagging.

Looking good mate....I feel the end is nigh for the control blade rear .... it's gonna be

Use a small amount of hot glue on the side to stick the outer rim to the body, then drill it out. The hot glue will remove from the body work with a hairdryier. Just make sure you clean everything with a bit of metho before you try and glue it. Cheers, Ben

Exhaust hitting on the cradle at the rear? Mine does it, but only sometimes when doing hard right hand turns.

Don't really know mate, but if you like a nice deep note, the Redback system is the one to go for cos the x-force is stainless as far as I know and will sound a bit tinnier. Cheers, Ben

4" Dump, cat and, mandrel bent section cost me $800 fitted, the dump was $500, so $300 for collector, cat and mandrel bit, which seem an OK price to me...nearly 4 hours work involved... The work was done at fat pipes in Kallangur (north side of brisbane)

Will ford not sell a short motor without a vin number?

Hey Guys, Been scouring the forums for a while now, gotten plenty of assistance and given a bit as well. Thought it was about time to introduce myself. I Drive an 04 Mk1 XR6 in phantom with a few mods, have a few plans for the car, but nothing like the some of the huge builds some of you guys have undertaken, my hats off to you . I joined you on the Over the Hill Cruise, and hopefully will be coming along to the next meet. T.V. I do agree with you that playing in the mud is a heap of fun, but maybe you should consider joining me on the next meet up with the 4WD club and get a taste of what REAL off roading is about. Let me know if you want some more details. Hope to catch up with ya's soon. Cheers, Ben

Won't be the uni mate, most likely the diff bushes, not just the rear one. I'm sure Senna will be in here soon to give you the low down Cheers, Ben

Process of elimination is painful, but it's usually only the only way to find the solution. Good luck Cheers, Ben

www.autoparts.com.au Most wrecking yards will ship australia wide. Are the axles any different on these to standard utes? Thought it was only the centre.

Yep, my car will rev to 7000 if I let it in neutral . They should just need to adjust a few settings in your SCT tuner (if that's what you're using) and upload it to the PCM. Ben

Shouldn't be a biggie for them, they just need to raise or remove the stationary rev limiter, doubt they will even need to put it back on the dyno.

This same thing used to happen with my AU, everything sounded like it locked but wasn't. You may find that lifting the handle isn't actually unlocking that door, but just opening it and triggering the interior light, which in turn unlocks the rest of the car. Go exchange that actuator just to rule out the possibility that it's got a weak servo motor or something like that. Then if it still plays up, you may need to get it to an auto electrics place so they figure it out. You could try rigging up a test light to the connection and watching for it to flash as you lock/unlock the car, or take the actuator out and watch it's movement when doing the same.

Is it cutting at 3000rpm? It may still have the factory stationary rev limit coded in. Try putting it in N and see if it does the same thing.

Won't break anything by doing it mate, just follow this how to . I do mine every 5000km service and also like to reach under and pull/push the actuator shaft to help work the WD40 in. It's an easy job if you remove the battery and the piping.

Take that one back and see if they'll exchange it for another, that will at least rule out a DOA ... it can happen ... Wasn't saying plugged the wrong way round, but may not pushed in far enough to make contact. Does the actuator make any noise when you lock/unlock?

Lazy turbo - that's a new one !!! out of interest .... have you tried giving the boost solenoid a gut full of WD40?

Performance wise? no difference....Stainless will probably retain heat a bit longer then mild, but stainless will last longer ... mild will be much cheaper. I think stainless will give a tinnier sound then mild cos they normally use a thinner gauged steel to keep the cost down. Looks? stainless looks awesome, but not gonna see it often. You could also get the mild steel ceramic coated for heat reduction and longitivtiy, but that would probably be more expensive then stainless...

An amount of play is normal in the impeller. Have a look for bent blades indicating they have come in contact with the housing. Does it spin freely?

Have you inspected the turbo? If you're unsure off what to look for, maybe take some piccys and post them up. Blown turbos are fairly rare on these things if the car is well maintained... Cheers, Ben

Only thing that can cause this is a faulty actuator....maybe you didn't plug it in properly?

try the site sponsors, or go to an exhaust shop. You won't need any bigger the 4", they are huge.

From what I have experienced with these is that they don't work as a hands free phone kit, just allow you to hear your ipod/iphone through the car stereo. Pretty sure to use hands free on the iphone, you are going to need a bluetooth kit. I have a belkin car cat, and it's awesome cos you get a small remote control that attaches to your steering wheel as will to skip, play and pause, but I still need to use bluetooth for hands free phone operation. Cheers, Ben

Sheesh, for that sort of $$ you would expect everything ready to go...they do say in the description ... bolt on and play ... absolutely no mention of need to buy an extra part ...